jim_gardner4

In a way I am glad to have found this thread as I thought it may just be me having problems. I have been a member for about 10 years or so and only recently logged on to find the "new" site. Unfortunately my email address and password don't seem to work (I have no idea how I logged on but I think if I ever log out, I will never get back in again) and, like others, I don't really want to reregister and loose my account with its links to old posts etc, not to mention the few photos that are (or where) on my gallery. If there is any chance of sorting this out, I am sure many people would be very grateful.

Many thanks Maris. I am trying to find a 100 x 100mm R72 but no luck yet.

I am about to try Ilford SFX in 120 for the first time but am not sure which filter gives nearest to true IR results. From various places on the web it seems Hoya R72 is the best option but this is generally a screw on filter. I will be using various lenses/bodies so really wanted a 100mm x 100mm filter I could use on everything. Lee filters do a 87c but from what I have learnt, one blocks light above 720nm and the other above about 850nm. Does anyone know if that makes a difference, what the extra filter factor would be, or better still has anyone used either, or both?

Ask a friend to dev your film in their tanks, using their chemicals, while you watch.

If you don't know where it came from probably best not to guess as you could be wrong. In this case it's a description of inversion and twisting at the same time.

Vania, I feel for you. I had the same problem on 35mm years ago and tried everything to sort it which took about 6 months. I used to use Patterson type tanks with the twizzle stick, constant agitation for first 30 secs, then 10 secs every minute. This method had worked well for me for many years then just stopped working and produced exactly what you have. I eventually determined it was the chemicals spinning round faster/slower at some points than others. I now use stainless tanks and reels and while I almost always use medium format now, the odd roll of 35mm goes through the same process which is; No pre soak. Ilford ID 11 1+1 for around 10 minutes. Pour in tank, agitate gently BUT IN A FIGURE 8 MOTION for 10 secs, couple reasonably sharps taps on bench, then 10 secs every minute IN A DEFINATE FIG 8 MOTION. The tank probably gets 4 revolutions in the 10 secs. Pour dev out, pour stop in, rotate once or twice, pour stop out, pour fix in, invert/rotate same as dev for 3-4 mins, pour fix out, wash in tank at same temp as other chemicals for 10 ish mins. Put 4ml of wetting agent in tank, take film off reel and holding one end in each hand, pass length of film through water/wetting agent bath, hang on clip (the type with 2 pins in) until dry. No steaks. For 5x4 I use Jobo drum on the wheel type processor but also rock left right to ensure the chems move all round not just in one direction.

Thanks all. Helpful replies there.

Since my last mercury thermometer broke, I am down to 2 of the blue liquid filled types and 1 with a round dial on the top. Unfortunately they all read slightly differently. The type that clip on with the dial that can be easily seen are great but not if they are not accurate. Can anyone recommend an accurate dial type available in UK please? Also, what are thoughts on digital thermometers?

As long as you’re not wanting to print grade 5, does it matter if they do fade? I always use enlargers with colour heads and have never dialled in x amount of magenta or yellow to produce a grade 0,1,2,,,, print. I start about 0 or maybe 20 magenta (depending on negative) then make a decision to alter contrast based on test print. I often find +\- 10 on the dial makes a fair bit of difference to the print but I have no idea what contrast grade the final print is.

Danac, wow that was a long one and I admit to not reading all posts. I am interested to hear what you finally settled on. Just to add my little bit, I have used a Sekonic L-508 for years, mainly as a spot meter but also for incident and flash. However if I am just out casually I may use a Pentax spot meter (cant remember the model) or even a Weston meter if I have my fathers Leica with me. I think you mentioned money isn't the biggest issue so why not get the best you can that does everything?

Try The Small Battery Company. Type in what you need and they will give you a list of equivalents they sell, and the pro and cons of each. Very reasonably too.

Same. Haven't received emails for weeks.

I have had a lot of help with this, particularly from Alan Marcus who was kind enough to PM me. I think without a densitometer and the knowledge of its usage, I cant do much more than stick with what I am doing.

And that's the problem. Without a Densitometer I cant tell what the Dmax or densities are. Will keep looking on the web though, thank you.

You're not wrong there. I read the instructions online. Phew!