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Jeremy Stein

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  1. <p>This controller has a button which can be locked in the down (depressed) state. It may be that it is locked down; try pushing the button down and sliding to the end of its travel and then let it go. If it is locked depressed, it should then spring up to the non-depressed condition - and solve the problem. Try it. If that doesn't work, it's likely broken. Good Luck!</p>
  2. <p>Check to see if you have the shutter button on the remote in its locked-down position. Try pushing that button down and moving it; if it pops up, you are then off the locked position and your problems should go away. If not, it may be defective or damaged.</p>
  3. <p>Consider renting a 100-400 mk II; on my visits to Alaska that range was invaluable. I would also bring the 10-22 and the 24-105. That sets you up for anything.</p>
  4. <p>With regard to yellowing; some years ago I had a cataract in my left eye replaced with a plastic lens. The operation was a complete success, but I noticed soon that colors seen by my left eye were noticeably bluer (i.e., less yellow) than those seen by my right eye. Once I had cataract surgery on the right eye, the two eyes saw very similar colors. So maybe the yellow coloration is at least partly in the lens...</p>
  5. <p>No commercial advertising in the classifieds. If you want to buy an ad, that can be arranged.</p>
  6. <p>I would like to know what other 7d Mk2 owners are using for AF settings to get and keep moving subjects in focus, especially at 10 fps. I have tried a variety of settings and nothing works really well in my tests. The camera is quick to initially focus, but subsequent shots vary in focus accuracy.</p>
  7. <p>If you have any sort of repeating strobe light, such as Canon or Nikon speedlights, or a strobe for disco use, such as used to be sold by Radio Shack, you have what you need. Darken your studio area essentially completely, decide where the model will perform his/her moves, focus your camera appropriately, open the shutter on bulb, start the model, start the repetitive strobe flashes, and you're done! You will wind up with multiple "poses" in motion, all on the same exposure, just as Doc did in your examples. Getting multiple poses is easy; getting good ones is harder, but can be done with no additional equipment.</p>
  8. <p>Try www.friedmanarchives.com.<br> Gary Friedman has written ebooks about various sony cameras, and I found his book on the A6000 to be very helpful. He does talk much more about camera features than about how to do photography.</p>
  9. <p>@Paul Cervantes<br> Just a quick comment here about the "ignore user" option; this would be an ideal way to help p.n be self-policing. If more than some selected number of users chose to ignore one poster, that poster could be dropped or perhaps warned automatically. That might help with the retetion of new users who have thin skins. It would also show moderators and admins who is likely to need correction!</p>
  10. <p>A Fresnel lens and a mask or snoot</p>
  11. <p>You are not losing your mind; your assessment of the ratings is correct. The photo.net history of ratings and what is shown of the ratings is long, convoluted, and arcane. I am in the process of examining the ratings of this photo and others and I expect you will see the overall rating of this photo change before very long. In any case, it is unwise and unhelpful to assume that the ratings of any photograph on p.n have any useful meaning; they are usually arbitrary and often capricious or spiteful.</p>
  12. Jeremy Stein

    Up See Daisy

    Exposure Date: 2010:08:10 10:55:21; Model: Canon EOS 40D; Exposure Time: 1/256.0 seconds s; FNumber: f/8.0; ISOSpeedRatings: ISO 200; ExposureBiasValue: 0 FocalLength: 100.0 mm mm; Software: Adobe Photoshop CS3 Windows;

    © Copyright 2010 Jeremy Stein

  13. Jeremy Stein

    Agave Study #4

    © Copyright 2011 Jeremy Stein

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