<p>Hi Paulo, this is a very interesting thread!<br>
I've never photographed a war zone, but for years I carried an old Nikon EM and a Nikon 28E (or 45P) strapped to me with one of those binocular harness rigs while skiing, hiking, and traveling (a few times in places where the "rule of law" would have been slow to respond). I used a plastic bag to wrap the camera when it rained, and I just let it endure cold. It was cheap and effective (and, being both small and light, it didn't cave in my chest when I crashed while skiing). Thieves probably recognized it as having virtually no value. However, given your "bulletproof" prerequisite, I don't think the EM will work for you (the electronics are sketchy and the seals are all goo by now).<br>
If I wanted a camera that I could count on to work every time, I'd get an original Nikon F. It's the Colt SAA .45 of the camera world. If I wanted a more recent camera, I'd take my FM2n. If I wanted digital, I'd take a Df (or about ten D80 bodies, since they're so cheap).<br>
Years ago, I had a Leica R, and for years I had a M6. Both are long departed, as frankly I didn't get that much enjoyment from using them: to me, the R wasn't better than my Nikons, and I discovered that I don't really like the rangefinder method of focusing/viewing.<br>
As an aside, with your resume, I imagine that you would receive a LOT of attention from the current North Korean government...your visit will very likely be, shall we say, extended.<br>
Good luck, have fun, and post pictures!</p>