jay_drew

<p>Test, testing. Will this print? Jay Drew</p>

<h1 > </h1> <p>There may be easier methods to calibrate your camera & film & processing, but the best way I know is the "Beyond the Zone System" by Phil Davis. I believe that I've heard that Davis has said that it won't work for color film, nor digital, but I don't see why not. However I have not tried it for color film, just B&W film. <br> I think Sekonic sells a folding & I assume very accurate gray card & have a way to calibrate your camera & meter. Photographers (including myself) should calibrate their camera's exposure system &/or external meter to avoid chimping.<br> Best wishes, Jay Drew</p>

<p>Thanks to all responses.<br> I'm getting an external SD reader. I use all SanDisk cards so it seem logical to get one of their readers.<br> Happy Holidays, & thanks again for the replies, Jay Drew</p> <p > </p>

<p >I have a Microsoft OS computer that has a SD/MMC slot. I use SD HC cards. I'm wondering if I should get a dedicated San Disk reader. It's not that the computer's slow, (I don't shoot enough to be concerned about down load speed) I just do not like the way the cards fit into the slot, they don't always go in straight, & have to be reinserted. Some times they don't connect w/ the program I want to load them into, & require reinsertion. I feel like I'm damaging the cards, but apparently I'm not, or at least so far.</p> <p > Happy Holidays, and thank you for any suggestions, Jay Drew</p>

<p >Well, I have the answer to my question. Standby mode is not normal after turning off the SB-900. I returned the 1st SB900 & received another. The 2nd used one turns off immediately when switched off. & other functions functions are working. I'm not just fruitlessly pushing buttons.</p> <p >Thank you, in case anyone is interested, Jay</p>

<p >Hello RJ</p> <p >Thank you for your suggestion. I went to that page & read it over. Then pressed</p> <p >function 1 & 3 simultaneously for > 2 sec. The screen blinked & changed. What </p> <p >I found was that if I turn it off, then fire it the screen goes blank immediately, but </p> <p >if I turn it off w/o firing it the screen stays on, then goes into standby. Is this normal?</p> <p >Thanks again, Jay</p>

<p >Hi Nick </p> <p >Thank you for your input. I have downloaded the manual. Haven't had any </p> <p >time to read it due to moving.</p> <p >Thanks again, Jay</p>

<p > </p> <p > </p> <p ><strong>I can not turn my used SB-900, that I just bought, off. It will stay on until the batteries run down. A clue to this problem might be that I do not understand how to operate it. The only manual I have on operating it is:</strong></p> <p ><strong>"NIKON CREATIVE LIGHTING SYSTEM" by Mike Hagen. I've read both the SB-900 & the SB-800 sections. I have studied, high lighting & annotating parts of the entire SB-900 section. I'm still ignorant about operating it. (I have both strobes.) I have two ideas of what the problem is:</strong></p> <p ><strong>1.) I'm not pushing the correct buttons in the right combinations or order.</strong></p> <p ><strong>2.) The SB-900 is defective internally also. It arrived w/ the bottom battery door catch broken off. It still holds the batteries tight enough now, but for how long will it hold. I'm going to send it back due to that. </strong></p> <p ><strong>So I guess my curiosity is; is this SB-900 also defective internally, or is it just my ignorance?</strong></p> <p ><strong>Thank you, Jay</strong></p> <p > </p> <p > </p> <p ><strong>By the way, does anyone know a sure fire way to glue the catch back on w/ the plastic Nikon uses for a SB-900, so if the problem is my ignorance I won't have to return i</strong>t.</p> <p ><strong> </strong></p>

<p >Thanks to all who contributed. I learned a great deal. Sorry to be so late to reply. I was waiting for further comments, got bissey w/ other things,in particular how to Ittl & CLS w/ a Nikon D7000 & SB-800. I have questions about that which I will ask in an appropriate forum. </p> <p > Thanks again for all the info about histograms & post processing, I learned far more than I bargained for: Jay</p>

<p >Matthew, Tim, & Mendel</p> <p >Thank you for your answers. This is the 1st, for what ever reasons, I have heard any explanations of the vertical lines. I obviously have a lot to learn about digital photography.</p> <p >Mendel, could U refer me to a photo or two that have an example of what your are referring to.</p> <p >Tim,I shoot raw only. I don't see the advantage of space savings as worth loosing most post-processing power. It takes me months to fill a 16gig card w/ 16mb images. From my film background, what it sounds like what U are doing is changing the gamma locally @ different places to better match what the eye sees. Now to learn how to do that in Elements or Lightroom.</p> <p >Jay</p>

<p >I understand what the distribution of vertical lines along the horizontal axis on a histogram means. I do not understand what the meaning is when those vertical lines reach the top of the graph. The various definitions say something like they represent the # of pixels @ that exposure level. Well, OK, does that mean that those are over exposed pixels? Obviously not. From what I can tell it makes no difference whenever the # of pixels reach or 'flat-top' the top line.</p> <p >So what if anything does it mean? If it means nothing, why not?</p> <p >Thank you, Jay</p>

<p>I once read about a technique of taking hold of just 1 side of the filter w/ the thumb & forefinger opposite of one another(almost touching) & twisting it counter clockwise. It worked surprisingly well. This will put fingerprints on the outside surface, but if the priority is to get the filter off, then so be it. I tend to doubt this would have helped in your case, though. I always carry 4 filter wrenches, 2 ~ 55mm & 2 ~ 80mm (probably stretchable to ~ 95mm). I use almost exclusively B+W MrC or Nano filters. I have only once had a problem removing a B+W filter. (Brass rings) It was a Nano Kesselman (sp?). The inner ring is very narrow, barely allowing the wench to get a purchase on it. I only turn a polarizer clockwise (facing the camera) to make sure I don't inadvertently loosen it while tuning it for the desired effect.<br> Hope this might be of some value to someone, Jay Drew</p> <p > </p>

<p >Hi Steven</p> <p >Thank you for your post. It's an interesting coincidence the things U posted. Starting w/ the idea of a wind blind. It's a project I'm working on now, to be held down w/ H2O bags. And the only FX digital sized Nikon (if U can call it that) I have is a Kodak DCS 1n, which is 1 of the cameras in addition to a, DX, D7000 that I intend to do close up with.</p> <p > I'm glad to hear that the GT 2531 EX is sturdy enough for some close up duty. I think I will get some extension tubes for less weight than bellows.</p> <p > And Edward , thank you for the tip on the $150 rebate.</p> <p > Now, does anyone know of the model # for a lateral post adapter for a series 3 tripod. I called B&H & the fella that I talked to had no idea. I Emailed Gitzo US & got a nonsensical answer. Even if they are no longer made, if I knew a model #, I could look for a used one.<br> jdmcgraw@sonic.net</p>

<p>I suspect that your 'UnZippped' bag could be repaired. Lowepro maybe could do it. Otherwise I'd try mountaineering stores like REI, etc. They often have some there who does that type of sewing, either offically through the store or on their own time & charge U directly.<br> I've done this before years ago. Best wishes, Jay Drew</p>

<p >Hi all</p> <p >I'm seriously considering buying the Gitzo GT2531EX w/ the articulating post. The main reason I contemplating this purchase is for close up photography.</p> <p >I have a GT3545XLS w/o a center post. With this Series 3 tripod, I often find close up subjects are beyond where I can place the camera due to the flattened & forward pointing leg(s) necessary to get low enough to shoot the subject.</p> <p >I would prefer to get the center post for my GT3545XLS (Gitzo model # GS3512S) W/ a Lateral arm adapter for series 3 tripods. But for the life of me I can not find a Lateral post adapter for a Series 3 tripod. I can find them for Series 5;4;2, but no Series 3. I have found a Series 3 geared aluminum lateral arm. I don't want that.</p> <p >So after all that bather, here are my questions:</p> <p >1.) Does anyone have any idea of how this tripod would work or/ experience w/ a GT2531EX? Particularly w/ an Fx sized Nikon w/ bellows & a 105mm close up lens. (That' a lot of weight to reach out from the center line of the tripod)</p> <p >2.) Would the GT2531EX, w/the center post extended out, be stable enough to allow exposures below, say, a 1/60th of a second? (I doubt it)</p> <p >3.) If not, does anyone know how to buy a Lateral Side Arm Series 3 lateral arm adapter. If you don't know exactly where to buy one, do you know the Gitzo model number? I can find no mention of it on the 'Gitzo US' nor Gitzo UK site</p> <p >Any suggestion gretly appreiciated.</p> <p >jdmcgraw@sonic.net</p>