jamie_coburn

<p>Light is Light is Light....Natural or strobe...it matters not.<br> Your image quality will follow the quality of natural light if that is all you shoot. Absolutely you should be able to manipulate light! Reflector, speedlights, studio strobes...are all options you should ultimately be employing.<br> Speedlights modified with a small umbrella are very effective because you are not lighting the subject out of doors you are filling in the subject and perhaps underexposing the bright background with the strobe. How does this work? Imagine a nice sunset where the compromise settings are f5 1/100 (the faces as bright as possible)...With the addition of a speedlight you could go to f8 1/100 reducing the exposure on the background from slightly over exposed blah background colors to a nicely underexposed background...and watch the colors pop! Background too dark? Lower the shutter speed...Not dark enough? Raise the shutter speed! The exposure on your subject never changes!<br> All it takes is a cheap little Yongnuo 560III, a cheap Yongnuo trigger, an umbrella, and a lightstand...under $200.00 and is capable of world class images. <br> <br />Light is everything!<br> Add a second cheap speedlight and you can make the blah day from hell look like a sunny day!</p>

<p>Facebook groups....Check to see if there are model and photographer groups in your area.<br> You might want to hire a model to get bit of experience if you are having trouble attracting them.</p> <p>Modelmahem: Your work is amazing!! We should work together some time!............Darkness :)</p>

<p>The exposure is indeed two separate exposures (flash and ambient) combined into one.<br> Done correctly the shutter speed is irrelevant. I take night time images where the shutter speed is several seconds and the subject is tack sharp.<br> You will notice that the center of the subject is sharper while the hands and head are extremely blurry. The sharper areas have almost enough flash....The blurry areas have almost no strobe light. You have to make sure the hands face and all extremities are lit by the strobe. A light meter is handy here....If you set the main light at f8 there should be f8 worth of light on the subject....pay attention to the perimeter of the subject.<br> When shooting very fast moving subject you want to light from the position that will give you the best chance of sharp frozen images....The subject should be facing and moving into the light. If you have a lot of motion on both sides you need light from both sides or you will get blur.<br> The image below was set up to wrap light around the subject(s) as they came down the race course. The sun was coming and going so I set up the light on the left 2 stops over the fill light on the right...giving me a dynamic wrap no matter what the sun was doing. Its not perfectly frozen, but the top riders (like this guy) were hitting 60 mph as they came through my lights.<br> https://500px.com/photo/109957555/dean-by-jamiecoburn?ctx_page=1&from=user&user_id=2400503<br> <img src="https://500px.com/photo/109957555/dean-by-jamiecoburn?ctx_page=1&from=user&user_id=2400503" alt="" /></p> <p>Hope that helps!</p>