j_d30

Thanks guys. OP here. It seems that I am nearly convinced that Sony A7ii would be a good choice and not because it can eventually take the summicron when I go back home (because it sounds it is not ideal to use with the 'cron). What would be a professional sharp 35 mm lens to go with it? Due to my ignorance and lack of time I am just going to go by your recommendations. I prefer not to have to deal with adapters. Just buy, put together, and shoot. Frankly most of the comments go above my head, as I am really clueless about digital. Thanks a lot

Thank you. My only 35mm camera is Leica M6. With a summicron 35. Which other lens would go on an M6 that also goes on an affordable mirrorless digital (or DSLR)?

Been shooting film since I started. I need digital for some occasions, I discovered, and looking for some advice as this is a world that I am completely unfamiliar with (digital cams). I need good quality prime lens since I got used to that (I am used to sharp lenses and don't want to downgrade much). I prefer smaller size cameras, easier to carry around and flexible in a street photo setting (which is most of what I do). This seems like I should opt for mirorrless. Doesn't have to have crazy MP. And I need it to be affordable <2000. I understand that there is a million choice, and each one has its + and -, but if you know of a system that fits the above needs please let me know. Also I am lost, how do I know which lens work with which system? If I like a lens (Milvus zeiss for example), how do I find a mirorrless that I can use it with? Thanks

Hello, I have taken some shots (120 films) that are very important to me, but I can't process these films now that everything is closed for weeks at least. I am also not leaving home nor I plan to make a trip to the post office/dropbox. My room has become very humid and I am worried and they have been there for weeks. Are you sure that I can just move the films the fridge? I have read that but I wanted to double check. I want a place to store them for at least a month or two. Also fridge vs freezer? I am in disbelief that it is actually OK to freeze exposed and unprocessed film (shrinkage, temp damage...?). Grateful for advice from people experience with the subject.

Hi, I am driving from Baltimore to Los Angeles. I have been taking pictures on my road trips of interesting man-made landscape and artifacts in the middle of nowhere, empty spaces ... Things that could look like leftovers from an ancient civilization that has since disappeared... I have not left yet. Hoping to get suggestions if anyone has? I am going through the following states most likely: Missouri, oklahoma, north texas (amarillo), new mexico, arizona, california

Hi, I am an old schooler using film cameras that are renown for sharpness and detail (leica, mamiya,...). I have come increasingly upon some impressive iphone photos and serious photographers who use iphone. For my intellectual curiosity, I wonder where does the iphone7 (and other smart phones) stand in comparison to professional cameras in terms of sharpness? Given that these are tiny lenses (I am assuming fixed length) what is the technology behind this? Any resources on the matter. Thank you J

Hi all, I have been taking street and documentary fine art photography. Some of what I do is a bit conceptual too. I wonder, how do such photographers make money? Since it is not about one shot but rather a series/project. For example, how do street photographers eventually create income? (other than teaching) Thanks

Hi there I am not from LA, but after a road trip that ends in LA I would like to develop my 120 film color (c-41). Any place you recommend that does a good job and that offers scanning the film onto digital medium (hopefully a flash drive). I take photography seriously and have made a big investment in this project so I want to make sure I go to a trusted place. THANKS

<p>LesSarlie, thanks for this great suggestion. I did not do that, because with this format I lose so much resolution. So I guess when doing like this you scan at a very very high resolution (which? I have the same scanner).</p> <p>Thanks </p>

<p>Like the attached. How can I do it consistently? My Scanner did this by mistake, when I scanned a color film in B&W, when I scan it in color it does not do it. But it is not reliable. I think it is cool. I can do it digitally through photoshop but it's not the same.... </p> <p>Thanks</p> <div></div>

<p>I use the standard TX 400, go to the lab and use D-76, 1:1, usual time and all. <br> This is not the first time that one of the films in the roll turns out weird. It is almost as if I accidentally developed a color film or something. It looks like it has not developed well, and it has this weird orangy color. You can only see the negative picture if you really put it in the light and it will appear rather superficial you can see it more from one side than the other.. </p> <p>Any idea of what could be going on? </p>

<p>I guess my problem is that when I downsize the image, using either of the options (dimensions by pixels of size in KB of file, which I assume are equivalent) is that when they open the image in a mac the image will always show the same size and my model will not understand that this is meant to be a small picture, to be shown only in a smaller format...<br> it is weird that my default picture viewer in Mac does not care about the size and always shows the picture full screen... </p>

<p>OK my message got derailed. My bad if question not clear: <br> I am working in lightroom 5. Can I make my picture small and lock it that way so that my model does not open it too big (Showing unflattering details)? <br> On MAc, I vary the size, limiting by size in KB, but no matter what size, when I click on the picture outsize lightroom it shows in the same size, so I think it just loses pixels, but not actual size... </p>

<p>help much appreciated, I am supposed to send pictures to this model but have been having troubles since new to lightroom/digital processing in general. </p> <p>here is the process I do, and my questions are below: <br> (a) I shoot film 35mm.<br> (b) Scan on epson at: 24 bit color at 800dpi, sometimes 1200dpi. Although I mostly do B&W I scan in color, I heard this advice somewhere, also I like the "color" of the Trix film, it has this signature color that I like to keep. <br> © edit in photoshop elements or now (as of few days) in lightroom. </p> <p>If you have any comments on this let me know. My questions: <br> - I want to send the model a small picture size because it looks better (less unflattering details, less grain visible). Is there a way to limit the size of the picture to a certain size, such that if she opens it in either software the picture will not be blown up big? I know this sound like stupid but I remember when I was on windows and used to work with elements at some point when I reduce the size of the picture it will open small from any software I use to open.... Would be great in fact if I can even lock the size so that it never open larger than a certain cutoff<br> - how should I chose the resolution when I export the image to jpeg? it shows me the standard 240 pixels per inch, and I typically chose that. </p> <p>Thanks a lot. </p> <p> </p>

<p>Thanks for the ideas. Indeed it is a magnum workshop. I was not aware of the organized protest in mid march, I was aware that things have been pretty rough, security wise, demonstrations, and so on. <br> Lex, indeed, I am not interested in those three themes that you suggest streering away from. Your suggestion regarding local politics, demonstration, the after impact is interesting. <br> I feel that having someone there on the ground would be very much of help since clearly they would know better what is safe or not and where to go and talk to folks. Not sure how to do that. <br> Also I wonder whether renting a car would be of any help.</p> <p>Thanks </p>