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ivo_ivo

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  1. <p><img src="http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah16/I_G_I/moi_2014.jpg" alt="" />l<br> Here is what film grain looks: a tiny crop from a huge scan (215mb) with zero sharpening. The film is Kodak Ektar and the lens is Pentax 85 "Soft"<br> <img src="http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah16/I_G_I/2014.06.19_0029.jpg" alt="" /></p>
  2. <p>AFAIK the entire Portra range has been designed as low grain and neutral colours; it is also very tolerant towards under- and over-exposure. For instance Fuji 400 Pro has more pronounced grain than Portra 400.</p> <p>In my view the poor (medium resolution) scan is responsible for your dissatisfaction. High resolution TIFF in 16-bit mode run from around 75mb and over 200mb.</p> <p>If you want to shot film perhaps you should buy a scanner and do the scanning yourself. No auto-settings are good for each negative, and I see no reason why such critical step as scanning should be left to chance.</p>
  3. <p><img src="http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah16/I_G_I/DS_0090.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="532" /><br> All manual Pentax (35mm) gear; Ektar scanned on KM Dimage scan</p>
  4. <p><img src="http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah16/I_G_I/DS_0089.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="529" /><br> Sex change: born a Goddess, and after a lot of surgeries ended as a Sumo wrestler.</p>
  5. <p>Perhaps this is not the answer you want to hear, but I would suggest finding and installing the original KM software for the scanner (and running it under appropriate OS; my PC run the antiquated OS X 10.4.11 especially for the scanners). I have two Dimage scanners and the original software do brilliant job, especially if one is willing to allocate a little time per image to adjust the settings.</p> <p>Btw. adjusting the pre-scan settings and adjusting post-scan in PS is not the same thing, the former is inherently preferable than the later.</p>
  6. <p>I have two, DS Dual IV and Dimage 5400. Because of the scanners I run vintage OS X 10.4.11 on PPC Mac and they work flawlessly (knock on wood!).</p> <p>Had very bad experience with third party software. Silverfast managed to crash my PC on opening; Vuescan couldn't control the scanner on start up. For this reason I am using the KM software which give me excellent results</p>
  7. <p>Once again thanks to all who replied. I managed to resolve the issue.</p>
  8. <p>Thank you for reply and for the tips. </p> <p>Same bizarre behaviour: the ColorSync utility shows some profiles I deleted long time ago from the Finder/Library/ColorSync; at the same time the ColorSync utility doesn't list profiles that are in Finder/Library/ColorSync. </p> <p>In the end I don't understand is it my PS broken, or my profiles not fully functional? Otherwise the ColorSync utility should register them.</p>
  9. <p>Hi All,</p> <p>Normally Photoshop always use the profiles located at the ColorSync folder. However, mine has stopped doing so and use instead an old list of profiles stored somewhere in the Adobe folders. This is a big issue for me because that way I can't use my new custom print profiles - they simply do not appear in the print list notwithstanding they are at the correct ColorSync folder.<br> I even "deleted" my ColorSync folders and my Photoshop continue to function flawlessly showing the same olf profile list.</p> <p>My vintage set up is Photoshop 8, OS X 10.4.11. There should be no differences with much more modern set ups.</p> <p>Please help to resolve the issue</p>
  10. <p>I had a similar experience with trying to connect Minolta scanner via SF or Vuescan. On my PPC Mac both software couldn't initiate or recognise the scanner. In the end I returned to the Konica Minolta software, downgraded my OS X to 10.4.11 for which the scanner software was designed/updated, and now everything function flawlessly.</p>
  11. <p>Have you compared the output in terms of image quality from Silverfast vs Nikon own scanner software? Perhaps the excessive noise is an artefact from SF and too much sharpening by default. Native scanner software is often the best.</p>
  12. <p>@James Dainis. DailyMail shows him shooting a Canon DSLR tethered to a laptop.<br> <a href="http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-3424074/Brooklyn-Beckham-looks-ultimate-skater-boy-baggy-hoodie-ripped-skinny-jeans-enjoys-downtime-honing-board-skills.html">http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-3424074/Brooklyn-Beckham-looks-ultimate-skater-boy-baggy-hoodie-ripped-skinny-jeans-enjoys-downtime-honing-board-skills.html</a><br> Burberry is a pretty ordinary fashion brand and all they are after is young "affordable" celebrities as vehicles for publicity, that's what BB is going to bring to them, not any photographic vision.</p>
  13. <p>I doubt there is one particular "Gustav Klimt of photography" since Klimt the artist was the product of a specific era, the Viennese Secession. There must be, however, numerous photographers influenced by the Secession/Art Nouveau/Jugendstil sensuous aesthetics. Here is one of the Klimt "children", the Dora Kallmus portrait of a dancer.<br> <img src="http://www.annedarlingphotography.com/images/dora-kallmus.jpg" alt="" />http://www.annedarlingphotography.com/images/dora-kallmus.jpg</p>
  14. <p>Thanks for all replies.</p> <p>The film actually is not ready for development, that is why I need to put it back in a light-tight canister.</p>
  15. <p>I was shooting at the end of my roll, and since I often get more than 36 exposures I was not concerned when passed 36. However, when I tried to rewind the film it dawned on me that the film end is no longer attached to the canister and I can't rewind it; the canister simply spun freely and the film on the right didn't move.</p> <p>I am for the first time in this silly situation so I went for help to a commercial photo service where I develop, but there I was told they don't do that sort of service (to put the film back into the canister). Instead I had to buy a new canister which they assured me will stay light-tight.</p> <p>The question is, can I attach the film end and rewind the film into the new canister? Can I use any specialist light source during the procedure (colour negative) ?</p> <p>Any advice or tips will be much appreciated.</p>
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