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huntrbll

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  1. <p>I would look at the 16-35mm and 70-200mm f4 lenses, and a 50mm f1.8. Excellent quality, reasonable size, cover FX and DX in case you decide to upgrade in the future. The 70-200mm f2.8 is a great lens, but a bit of a beast. If you don't need the f2.8, save the money.</p>
  2. <p>I upgraded lenses 2-3 years ago, and sold my 70-200 f2.8 to help buy the 70-200 f4, as well as the 16-35 and 24-120 f4 lenses. No regrets. For your info, I shoot with a D7100 and a D600.</p>
  3. <p>Try again...</p><div></div>
  4. <p>Bryce Canyon, D600......</p>
  5. <p>I would take the 24 and 50mm primes, and the 80-400 zoom. If you are really into fisheye photography, take that as well. I would never consider a trip like this without a second body as backup. I would consider a DX body which, when combined with the 80-400, would be great for wildlife.</p>
  6. <p>I shoot with both, a D7100 and a D600. I like to use the D600 for lower light and wide angle shots, the D7100 for wildlife and other telephoto work. Batteries are interchangeable, and the feel and controls are almost identical. I usually carry the f4 lenses....16-35, 24-120 and 70-200....and a 105 macro. This combination gives me an effective field of view of 16-300, and a backup camera body.</p>
  7. <p>My suggestion is see if a local camera club offers a beginning photography course.....and if not, look for a couple good books on basic photography. There is no "best" aperture to shoot at a given time, it depends on the subject and what you are trying to convey. To do that effectively, you must learn the correlation among apertures, shutter speeds and ISO. Briefly, large apertures allow less depth of field and isolate subjects, faster shutter speeds freeze action better and higher ISOs allow you to shoot in lower light, but usually with a sacrifice in quality. Learn how these things work together and then you will control the camera and results.</p>
  8. <p>Personally, I have had mixed results with third party lenses, so I tend to stick to Nikon now. IF you are never planning to go to FX, I would suggest a basic kit of the 12-24 DX, which I find optically good from 12 to about 18 and excellent above, and which also takes filters; the Nikon 24-120 F4 is a great walk around lens, constant aperture and I find very sharp. Some pooh-pooh the distortion, but I'm not into architecture so it is not that big a deal; the 70-200 F4 lens is as sharp as its f2.8 big brother and a joy to use. That would be my basic three lenses. If into macro, I would look at the 85mm DX lens. A friend has that and is quite pleased with it. I like the 105mm f2.8 macro....but that is a lot heavier. Throw in the prime that you think best suits your needs and perhaps a 1.4 extender, and you have a four, maybe five, lens outfit (if you really think you will need the longer reach, keep the 70-300 lens. Nice lens, but not as sharp, in my opinion, as the 70-200).</p>
  9. <p>Lex, I just resized a previous image I posted on Facebook....makes this look a touch oversharpened here.....</p>
  10. <p>This was taken this afternoon at my feeders....about 20-25 feet away......</p> <div></div>
  11. <p>I was photographing birds today with the Nikon 1 V1, lens converter and a 300mm f2.8 VR lens. Whenever the camera was on, it sounded like VR was engaged whether I was touching the shutter button or not. Never had this problem with other lenses. Any ideas as to what would cause this??</p>
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