hidi_heson

<p>thanks for the clarification. I wonder is there a measurement to where I can glue this tab to make the meter reflect the correct F-stop. Should I make it touch the tab when it's wide open?</p>

<p>my 105 Ai "converted"</p><div></div>

<p>300mm mounted</p><div></div>

<p>On the other hand I have another lens that fits the same situation, but apparently before I bought it, it is already been "converted" into "AI" by gluing on a piece of rubber that will catch the tab... if this is the so called "conversion" that will be done to my 300mm lens, then I can do it myself, before I repeat my question to the conversion is even necessary.. see the attached picture or both my 300mm lens mounted on the body and the "converted" lens of mine</p>

<blockquote> <p ><a href="/photodb/user?user_id=4754088">Tim Carroll</a> , Jun 18, 2016; 01:17 p.m.</p> <p>This is going to be a little complicated, so bear with me. Many early non-AI lenses, like the 50mm Nikkor SC that I have, have a different way that the aperture ring attaches to the lens, compared to the newer non-AI and AI series lenses. The Aperture ring threads on to these older lenses, and can be threaded onto the back of the lens to the point where the solid black ring on the back of the aperture ring, sits flush with the steal mounting surface of the lens. Looking at the pictures Heidi linked to, it looks like her 300mm lens fits that scenario.<br> In this case, with certain FM2N cameras, like mine, if the back of the aperture ring is flush with the steal mounting surface, it will not touch the aperture "tab" on the FM2N body, so no damage will be done (still not recommended). But many non-AI lenses have a solid aperture ring (with no cut outs) that stick below the steal mounting surface, and those will damage the aperture "tab" on the FM2N cameras.<br> Hope that makes sense.</p> </blockquote> <p>Yeah, I just checked... it looks like that's exactly what it was, the back of the lens was not even touching the tab... so when I rotate to different f-stops, the tab was not even moving.... In this case, I wonder what does the tab even do? </p>

<p>what is the AI aperture coupling tab? <br> </p>

<p>So I wasn't aware of this AI, Non-Ai thing before at all... <br> I thought FM2N takes all manual Nikon lenses, so I went to purchased this Nikon H 300mm F4.5.<br> mounted on shot pictures, nothing iffy.. But then I was in the process of acquiring another lens, googled the difference between AI and Non-Ai.<br> To my surprise it says FM2N only takes AI lens... But I'm pretty sure this 300mm is a Non-AI... how come it mounted fine and shots fine.. ? see the picture in<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/144357025@N07/"> this link </a></p>

<p>where do you find if the shutters are compatible? how do you know F801 ones are compatiable?</p>

<p>my local repair shop doesn't have the parts, and labor alone they ask for $125</p>

<p>So the shutter on my FM2n, kinda just.... shuttered.... <br> One of the blades got jammed out of place, so now I'm thinking to get one of those non-working unit selling for parts from Ebay, and then give it to my local camera repair men to swap the shutter out. <br> But I can't find the exactly model at the good price, instead came across a few FE and FMs for cheap. </p> <p>My question is while I know they have the titanium shutter, FM2N has the aluminium ones, I just wanna know if they will fit.<br> I can't care less about the material, just wanna make my cam work again. </p> <p>Input please!</p>

<p>Well, I didn't take the same photo with 5D, but no...5D performs fine... but they look digital lol</p>

<p>FYI, I sold my Canon 5D MK II, and went full film.... </p>

<p>these are unexpired film, set to expire in 2017.<br> I have no lens hood on, and I didn't even print it... scanned straight from negative</p>

<p>delete please, I move this thread in the beginner forum</p>

<p>Here is my spec:<br> Camera: Nikon Fm2n<br> Stock: Fuji Superia X-tra 400<br> Lens Tameron 70-210mm</p> <p>Please refer to my google drive photos for the following issue, <a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bz3vFOep5kjcbHpzQ3JYMVVoVkE">click here. </a><br> 1) pics I took during sunrise, a lot of light... turned out to be underexposed.<br> I'm not sure if it's a lens issue or what, I made sure all the pictures are exposed to "o" on the light meter. <br> I have yet to learn any camera issue will result in Underexposure... so I suspect something else.</p> <p>2) certain photos have the dark corners vignette? Is this be a lens issue? But I looked through the lens, can't see anything wrong.</p> <p>3 The red color always appears to be very bright even though the rest of the photo is darker. <br> Hoever, when the red is absent in the photo, the entire picture looks magenta.... weird! Scanner issue?<br> I'm using the Plustek 8200i to scan my image....</p> <p>I'm a newbie to shooting film, there are so many variables I was unaware of. <br> Compared to beautiful photos taken by the same camera, the same stock, I'm still not getting it, help!!!</p>