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HenryUK

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HenryUK last won the day on November 29 2015

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  1. Are you in green square or one of the portrait, sport etc modes? This is normal behaviour. If you go into P, Tv, Av then the FUNC button cycles through all the settings. I hope this amswers your question. Henry
  2. Hi, I am sucessfully using a Scan Multi II withe Windows 10 64 bit. I installed an Adaptec 39320A in a spare PCI slot in my motherbaord. I got a 68 pin VHDCI External LVD SCSI to Centronics cable. I got drivers from Adaptec - Microsoft Windows 7 x64. I installed them using Device Manager, Update Driver, Browse my computer. I then installed the DIMAGE Scan Utility. I then installed the scanner drivers by disabling driver signature checking. I turned on the scanner, rebooted the PC and it worked! So I can still use my trusty Scan Multi II.
  3. <p>Sorry I haven't replied earlier. I don't check my posts very often.</p> <p>Go to http://karasevstudio.com/resources/3rd_party/Minolta/DiMAGE_Scan_Elite_5400_II/<br> and download the file sonyscanners.inf.<br> <br />Right click on it and pick Install.<br> Next time you start up Windows 7 and 10 should recognise the scanner.</p> <p>Henry</p>
  4. <p>I have a Minolta Dimage Scan Multi with the dreaded flashing red light.<br> By substitution it turned out to be a defective lamp, so I ordered some 120 mm long, 3 mm diameter CCFL tubes from lcd-chip.com.<br> I replaced the old tube, turned the scanner on, the tube lit but after 2 seconds the red light flashed and the tube went out.<br> After some experimentation I found that you don't get the red light with no tube connected, so I thought it might be detecting excessive tube current. I put a 22 kOhm resistor in series with the lamp and the scanner behaved normally.<br> Although the light from the new tube looks bluer a comparison with a scan from the old tube didn't look that much different.<br> I haven't worked out what the green LED in the FL-100 assembly is for. I thought maybe it was acting as a photodiode for brightness feedback. During operation, however, it's forward biased and glows green.<br> So now I have a few spare CCFL tubes that will fit the Scan Multi I and II. If anybody wants one, let me know. I can rebuild FL-100 lamp assemblies too. I'm in the UK.<br> It's a great scanner, and it can be made to work with Windows 7 and 10 too.</p> <p>Henry</p>
  5. <p>Cotton buds, strips of paper and lighter fuel with patience and a delicate touch works.</p> <p>Have a look at this:</p> <p>http://www.instructables.com/id/Manage-Your-EOS-Cameras-Sticky-Shutter/</p> <p>I've done this with several EOS film cameras.</p> <p>Henry</p>
  6. <p>I agree that it looks a bit like a CF card connector but this camera uses SD cards.<br> I can't see how it got into the mirror box though. The mirror box is supposed to be a sealed light-tight container.<br> Perhaps it got lodged there during manufacture?<br> The OP says the camera still works.</p> <p>Henry</p>
  7. <p>I've looked in the EOS 550D (world name for Rebel T2i) parts catalogue and can't see anything like this piece.</p> <p>Have a look for yourself http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1216590</p> <p>It certainly looks as if it performs some function.</p> <p>Henry</p>
  8. <p>ImageBrowser works just as well on my Windows 10 32bit laptop as it did under Windows 7; that is to say slowly.<br> I did have to go into settings and select the drive & folder where my pictures are stored.<br> I can't believe that Canon would abandon their software just because Windows 10 came along.</p> <p>Henry</p>
  9. <p>Set the body to Av mode. Dial in f/16 and, using the depth of field preview, check that the lens iris closes up properly. Repeat for f/8 etc.<br> With a film loaded check that the body has read the ISO speed properly.<br> Rick Oleson describes how to use a CRT TV or monitor to check faster shutter speeds.<br> http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-135.html<br> I don't know whether this works with LCD TVs.<br> Put the camera in manual mode and set the exposure by hand to what your Sekonic meter says. See if the pictures are correctly exposed then.<br> If the body is faulty it almost certain that it will not be economic to have it repaired.</p> <p>Henry</p>
  10. <p>On many EOS DSLRs there is a LOCK switch next to the rear control wheel that disables it.</p> <p>Henry</p>
  11. <p>My favourite is the EOS 30V because it's light, small and quiet.<br> My second favourite is the EOS 1V because it's solid and high performance.<br> My third favourite is the EOS IX because it's cute.</p> <p>Henry</p>
  12. <p>It could be the beginning of shutter failure. Sometimes the rivets holding the blades loosen and allow a small amount of extra light through.<br> <br />Is it more noticeable with short exposures?</p> <p>Is it in the same part of the frame in both landscape and portrait orientation?</p> <p>Henry</p>
  13. <p>I can't see why it shouldn't apply to the Speedlite 90EX as well.<br> Not that I use lithium primary cells; far too expensive.</p> <p>Henry</p>
  14. <p>The gear train between the autofocus motor and the focus barrel seem to be unusually delicate in this lens. The gear teeth can get stripped if the lens is dropped or the focus ring is turned manually in AF mode.<br> A new motor and gearbox doesn't cost much (GBP15 or USD25) but the cost of the labour makes it uneconomic. You can even buy the gears themselves on eBay.<br> Unfortunately you might as well buy another lens.<br> Henry</p>
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