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heath_hays

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  1. I definitely appreciate all the advice gents. Looking back at my original post I now realize I got too caught up with this idea of picture rotation and missed the opportunity to ask my question more succinctly. Basically I'm looking for photo mosaic software that can be used to make an actual physical thing rather than just an image file, meant to be printed out. Although it might be possible to use regular photo mosaic software to do something like this, since I'll be using hundreds of wood blocks that all look very similar, the software might even need to be able to instruct in what order the pictures should be arranged. I know this is kind of niche but this software has been around long enough that I would have though someone would have thought about doing something like this before, although I can't recall seeing anything like it before. If the logistics can be worked out I'm more than sure it'll be worth the effort.
  2. I'm a woodworker and I've got an idea for a piece that's gonna take some kind of photo mosaic software. Thing is, most of the software I've found so far keeps input photos in their original top up orientation, and I need the software to feel free to rotate the input pictures in the final mosaic. Here's my idea. I'll be cutting LOTS of wood squares out about 1"x1", baking them in the over at varying times/temps so they have different hues, taking a picture of each one, labeling the blocks on the back to keep track of them, and then load the pics into some mosaic software to create a large picture. If the software were to allow the input pictures to be rotated in the final mosaic, not only could you not tell as these are pictures of wood blocks, but the end picture will end up looking better for it. Thanks for the help.
  3. Long story short is I've borrowed my buddy's nice Sony camera here that I've made a high speed film with and now that it's finished I need to confirm it's fps. I know virtually nothing about this camera so I had to find a youtube video to walk me through setting it up to do high speed, which thankfully went off without any hitches. As far as I know I set the camera to film at 960 fps, but sometime when I was either copying the file over to my computer or importing it into my video editing program, a window popped up and said something pertaining to that if the file was NTSC it would be 960 fps and if PAL would be 1000 fps, or something close to that; and that's got me wondering. Memory is a little hazy and I probably rushed through that process too quickly. I'm in the states btw. So now I need to confirm somehow or another what my video's fps is. I was hoping I could just pull the file up in explorer the fps might show up in it's 'properties' but that wasn't the case. How can I go about confirming my video's fps please? Thanks.
  4. Update is I finally figured out the flash rate. It wasn't with Resolve though. I ended up using an online program someone suggested called VSDC. So now, I need to confirm my video was filed at 960 fps. To make a long story short, it could be either 960 or 1000 fps. How can I figure out my video's fps? Is there any kind of meta file it has associated with it that lists fps, sort of like viewing a file's properties?
  5. Thanks for the great suggestions guys. If I had just a little more experience in some of those directions I'd go that route, but a few have suggested analyzing my video with DaVinci Resolve so that's what I'm trying first. I loaded my ~4sec 1GB .MOV file into Windows Media Player and video looks like it would do well with closer inspection. The entire video takes 2m 35 sec to play out and there's an 18 sec segment somewhere in the middle that captures 7 flashes. The light stops flashing after that so 7 will have to do. But the flash and subsequent dimming of the element look so smooth I'm sure I've got enough for a precise frequency measurement once I'm able to look at this frame by frame. So I installed DR on a HDD starved computer and tried to load my file up but like a monkey on a piano I never hit the right combination of buttons to get my file up like I wanted. Could anyone coach me on how to import my .MOV into DaVinci and do this quick analysis?
  6. I've got a strobe light I'm trying to figure out what exact frequency it's flashing at, and already being outclassed by my Canon EOS T7, I decided to hop on Amazon and pick up a Sony Cyber-Shot RX10 IV and to see if I could high speed frame rate capture some of these strobe flashes. I know just enough about either of these two cameras to be dangerous, so I had to look up on youtube to see EXACTLY how to set this Sony camera up to do the specific high speed shot I needed. Luckily I ended up figuring it out and now I have about 20 seconds of slowed down footage I need help analyzing. Since the thing I was filming was a light source itself, and resolution didn't matter I was able to use the highest frame rate setting on the camera, which I believe was 960, even though I thought I had seen the frame rate advertised as 1000 somewhere. This might have something to do with NTSB vs. PAL possibly? So now that I've got about a second of flash time recorded at that high frame rate (in the form about a 1MB mp4 on the SD card), what free editing program can I download and use to view this video and analyze this light's flash rate? Thanks.
  7. I'm an amateur 'photographer' with just enough knowledge to be dangerous to myself. I have the typical Canon Rebel T7 with 18-55mm lens package and I pretty much shoot with it on auto all the time. Only problem I have is that I can't get close in shots with this lens. I'll be needing to make some close up shots of really small insects here shortly and need a recommendation for a close up lens that's about my speed. A good and cheap (if the combination exists) lens is exactly what I'm looking for. Just whatever gets the job done. Any recommendations for a lens? Thanks.
  8. Hi I'm new and just getting back into photography to help promote the tables I build. I found another furniture maker on the net who explains a light painting technique where he uses a black background, 10 sec shutter speed and a flashlight to make professional looking photographs on a tight budget. I just bought a new T7 with the usual 18-55 kit lens and I plan on trying to duplicate his technique the best I can. But before I put a lot of effort into it I thought I'd run it past the knowledgeable people here for some advice and direction. The video will explain it better than I can. I edited it so it pretty much gets explained in the first minute of the video... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7TYyO78XlU Any advice on how I can improve on his technique?
  9. Thank so much for all the great info, feels good to be back into photography. I've asked my questions in a few of the forums and I've gotten a lot of great responses. Looking back I wish I would have given a little more detail about the shots I'm intending to make, but I think I see the direction things are going. First, I'll be making the exact same shot as the one I pictured. They'll be of dining tables or similar furniture up to 8 ft long, oriented the same direction. Thankfully I have a lot of room to stage and about 20 x 24ft of black backdrop. I've decided to go with the Canon T7 and probably the 18-55 lens. Only thing I haven't reconciled yet is that I've seen suggestions for both the 18-55 lens and that I'll probably be around f8 for my shots, although this lens doesn't go smaller than f5.6. Haven't quite figured that one out yet but it seems like the 18-55 will do the trick. Does knowing the exact shoot scenario effect the advice on what lens I should look for?
  10. I'm a new photographer in the middle of researching buying a used camera to do a specific lighting technique called light painting. Black background, 10 sec shutter speed, cutting all the lights and illuminating the piece with a quickly moving flashlight beam. The guy that made the how-to video I'm following uses an older Canon Rebel T3i camera with a 50mm Canon EF50mm F1.8 lens. He says you can use any DSLR camera with manual mode, but for simplicity's sake I'm researching buying the same camera and lens. So in searching ebay I'm finding lots of T3i cameras but very few with the 50mm 1.8F lens he mentions. 95% of the T3is offered are bundled with either or both... an EF-S 18-55mm lens with F 1:3.5-5.6 and/or an EF-S 55-250 lens. I've read how the larger 1.8F would be better in low light conditions, and I wondered how this extra functionality over the more common 3.5F lens would be a factor with this technique. Is anybody familiar with this type of lighting scheme or have an idea what type of lens would be better for it? //
  11. My mother has always wanted to take a photography class but her mobility issue has kept her from achieving her goal. So this Christmas I'd like to see what I can do to make this happen for her. I'm looking for recommendations for both online intro to photography classes and an appropriate camera. At 64 Mom tends to get frustrated more easily now with technical matters so I doubt she would like to take things any further than just your average amateur photo education. Her goal is basically just to get out and start taking pictures. Can anyone suggest a good online intro to photography course as well as a camera that would suit our purpose? I believe she'd like a more traditional model camera with changeable lenses and a focus ring. Other than that we're wide open to suggestions. thanks
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