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Gus Lazzari

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Gus Lazzari last won the day on October 4 2016

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  1. "thinking that there are screws you can get to from the front somehow" The key is to extract the 3 set screws contained in the Name tube (serial number etc.). This tube conceals the service access. The rest of the way in the tear-down will utilize YOUR commonsense...
  2. This is a re-post from back in 2018 in order to correct a LINK. - - - - - My preference is for the much more stable "silver oxide" batteries. That said, one should either acquire a reusable washer to slip over the "silver" battery for a 1.5V output, or the BEST & highly recommended step-down adapter.<<< click Further comments on battery choices are here: Silver, Alkaline & Zinc-Air batteries <<< click & scroll down for my input...
  3. Gus Lazzari

    Seal World Tour 2023

    Concert images shot with Sony A7III using Leica Elmarit-M 135mm f/2.8 and Zeiss FE 35mm f/2.8 lenses.
  4. A fellow technician in the Hasselblad repair world, passed away on August 5th. Here's the last posting on his website (by his daughter Jill) - - - https://www.david-odess.com/ Very sad for the family and those left behind...
  5. Wilson Arch, also known as "Wilson's Arch", is a natural sandstone arch in southeastern Utah, 24 miles south of Moab. It has a span of 91 feet and height of 46 feet. - Shot with a Pentax Asahi Super-Takumar 8-Element 50mm f/1.4
  6. Adding to this discussion concerning the use of the Mamiya medium format cameras vs. the AMAZING Hasselblad SWC as it relates to adding Panorama 'Mask Kits'. - This is now my favorite camera combo to carry around; a Hasselblad SWC with a 6x3 Pano Kit - The SWC and Hasselblad's in general, feed their 120 film vertically. This ADVANTAGE allows for the 'stacking' of the images on a roll of 120 film. With this up/down direction (like a Panavision film magazine), one can achieve a minimum of TWENTY 6x3 PANO images ! - Take that noisy motor, take-up teeth breaking, vignetting Fuji lens and inevitable electronic problem XPAN's ! More film efficient, far cheaper and more reliable than either the Mamiya OR XPan/Fuji TX-1 cameras... - - - - - Okay, so because the old style C12 Hasselblad backs have a MANUAL RESET of it's counter & the ability to also MAUALLY advance the film, these become the best Back's to use when utilizing a SWC as a ZEISS lens PANO. 1. The OEM Hassy viewfinder works best when purchasing a slip-on 3d Printed 6x3 Pano mask. 2. The C12 Back does require transport decoupling (no body influence is desired). This entails milling away three Gear Teeth so the back is totally controlled by the camera operator. 3. If one owns or buys a 645 Hassy Back, then you can simply use the SWC with a 645 3D printed viewfinder Mask (you'll then get 16 images per roll). 4. With the mod'ed C12 Back, get the roll to number one (manually resetting the counter), fire your image, then by hand wind the back's Key ONE FULL TURN (360 degrees). Due to the changing circumference of the film roll as it progresses (after numeric 7 on the back's counter), one can then revert for the rest of the roll, to only a 3/4 turn of the transport Key (270 degrees). With this you'll achieve AT LEAST 20 evenly spaced film images. - - - - - Finally, the wonderful OEM Hasselblad #41151 Mask kit (pretty pricey), doesn't always fit the SWC models. Because of this, custom made 3D Masks work best (Old SWC vs. Newer SWC units also have slightly different dimensions).
  7. Wow "c_watson1" (if that is your name), what is your problem with "dead" threads? You constantly beat that point to death ! - If something applies to the original posting, what's wrong with supplements to the discussions ? - i.e. Wikipedia😵 - - - - - Besides, with participation in this venue DOWN to record levels, you really 'otta' appreciate any participation (Geesh). Finally, I'll 'troll' your constant "NO DEAD THREADS" mantra, with the suggestion : ANYBODY who doesn't have "Images" uploaded in their profile/portfolio, should not be allowed to comment on "Dead Threads"...😎
  8. "back in the late 80s when Nikon did not have a replacement shutter" OP Huh ? - I was ordering Nikon shutter blades for FM2 & FE2 models for at least two decades after their production runs ended. In fact today, I order 'like new' blades from Ebay. There are sellers who have been harvesting blades for years (less than $90 for the set). - - - - - Now, some may say that the OP is speaking about the FE2 needing a whole new shutter - Well, I've never encountered a 'bricked' shutter block unit unless the camera experienced some kind of major trauma (impact, liquid etc). So blade replacements made for about 95% of the FE2 repairs (these are VERY hearty cameras). FYI, the early 'Honeycomb' titanium blades were so thin & light (as a result they were great performers) that when the owner blasted air into the film chamber or finger obstructed/touched the blades during loading, they 'went-off-track' ! - After-which they'd try to cock the shutter, then irreversible blades damage occurred. Going to the more rigid smooth aluminum material limited these customer related issues. - - - - - Finally, of all the models I own (*and I own all of them), the FE2 is my favorite of the electronic Nikon film bodies... * Provided image shows units that didn't make it into showcases after a spring cleaning.
  9. "said it's "shutter bounce." Okay, he either doesn't wish to explain it to you, OR he doesn't know that shutter bounce causes A BRIGHT LINE of re-exposure. "you are referring to the same problem" Not really. - It's definitely *Brake related, BUT, it's the opposite of "bounce"... * "the 1st curtain [is] hitting a DRY or overly tightened brake"
  10. "newly refurbished canon ftb - What's the solution?" This is a classic 'Brake' issue. When one sees a defined line such as yours, it's the 1st curtain hitting a DRY or overly tightened brake (the 2nd curtain pushes its way against the prematurely halted 1st curtain). This is a REDO for the servicing tech. He needs to first lubricate, then if the issue isn't remedied, then the brake has to be adjusted; this of course assumes that the shutter specs for tension & lubrication are met...
  11. Foam has been and is being used in many camera bodies. As cameras age, many 'Techs' ignore internal foam that is obviously past its prime. Yes, disturbing it is messy and makes for much longer bench times in dealing with it. But we need to remember that this stuff & its adhesive eventually turns ACIDIC ! Of course this material is there to provide necessary light trapping, cushioning & dust mitigation, so a maintenance (C L A) should always include replacing this material (a necessary evil)... The provided images show what can occur with the Aluminizing of a camera's prism (black lines and/or bars visible in your viewing) and the contamination of sensitive electronic parts (corrosion etc.)... The prism isn't economically feasible to restore - A replacement of this Leica R3 prism was required.
  12. Hans_500CM, do you see the 'carve-out' in the tube that holds the rear group? (The lower part of the tube wall). That exists for the mirror rise & fall clearance. Your 'shop' obviously doesn't know that this special clearance needs to be positioned properly. One of their 'guys' just tightened the replacement rear group without knowing (and checking) that if it didn't tighten it to the correct position, it will require either a thickness shim or the application of Loctite to the threads (then set the position). Finally, let me add, that whoever this supposed 'tech' is, they really should consider a simple step to their service, by adding some flat black paint touch-up to the marred surfaces caused by someone's careless use of tools...
  13. "I noticed the lens was coming out slightly slower than what it used to" Well, the quick video you supplied shows what I would call a normal function. But, it also shows that it's likely a high-mileage sample that you own (many abrasions on your Titanium finish). I highly recommend that you follow these suggestions for extending its life - - - 1. Stop shutting off the camera ! 2. Allow the camera to go to sleep on its own. 3. When you wish to use it, simply tap the release button to 'Wake-Up' the camera. 4. Avoid the camera's 'Tucking In" lens action - i.e. To make the body smaller (Limit this to film & battery changes etc.). All this to limit the mileage on the lens connection flex ribbon (FPC) that eventually experiences the 'Paper Clip' effect (bend it enough times & it breaks). Remember, these complex little cameras were considered 'Light Duty' when they were new (Long life was never part of their design)...
  14. Hadn't used this particular Hasselblad body & lens for at least 2 years. Knowing that I wasn't going to use this combo, I stored the body & a black 50mm Distagon lens into an airtight bag along with a 'Desiccant packet' (North Carolina is a four season environment that is subject to humidity). Retrieving it to once again put it back into the rotation, I was horrified to see that a desiccant packet negatively reacted with the metal that it came in close contact with (see the provided images; paint fade, rust, corrosion and the removal of the black anodize treatment). Maybe someone out there understands technically why this corrosion occurred. My guess is that the 'silica gel' material did indeed absorb moisture, but this moisture became concentrated into the desiccant material (it didn't leave the airtight ZipLock bag) and being so close to metal, corrosion was the result - - - So a lesson learned and a BIG warning to anybody who employs this same naïve technique : So, don't allow desiccant materials to make ANY contact with your valuable equipment !
  15. As proof that fine mechanical cameras can in fact be brought back to factory era specifications, here's the end result - - - And yes, that's a factory Wax "L" seal... Not perfect, but it will now again provide the owner with years of rangefinder "Wow" factor and accurate shutter speeds etc...
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