gordon_yee

Your Canonet QL17 is the first generation, full-sized model introduced in 1965: Canonet QL17 - Canon Camera Museum (global.canon) Yours should have a 45mm lens. Flash sync requires a PC cord. There were sub-versions of the first generation QL17 with different markings. Early ones used a larger 1.3V mercury battery (PX-1?) while later ones used a PX-13/PX-625 button. A hot shoe and the contacts for the Canolite D flash were added on the second generation QL17 ("New Canonet") in 1969. It was a total redesign, more compact in size and with a 40mm lens: New Canonet QL17/QL17-L - Canon Camera Museum (global.canon) The GIII, or third generation model, was a New Canonet with some improvements: Canonet G-III 17 - Canon Camera Museum (global.canon) Introduced in 1972, early GIIIs were made in Japan. Most later ones were made in Taiwan. A Canonet 28 with a hot shoe would be contemporary with the downsized gen2 or GIII models.

Jim, I noticed that your F-1 is a very early one. You're probably aware that upgraded parts were recommended in order to use the MF with F-1s with serial numbers under 200000. Attached is a scan from The Camera Craftsman that details the changes.

Took a second, closer look. Minolta SR looks more likely.

The three lugs of the Minolta SR bayonet mount are roughly the same length. On the Konica F (as well as the later, incompatible Konica AR) mount, one lug is significantly longer than the other two. SLR Lens Mount Identification Guide by Richard Oleson - Vintagelens Konica Collector - Lense Bayonet Classification (konica-collector.org)

Perhaps the Konica F mount of 1960?

<CPO> and <EP> markings generally indicate items purchased by military personnel from post exchanges: Post Exchange - Camera-wiki.org - The free camera encyclopedia

Also, look for a Speedlite 200E if you want a small dedicated flash when the 300EZ is too much.

Are you sure the flash was off on one shot? If the capacitors were charged, the flash would still discharge when tripped by the camera. The programmed exposure selected by the camera's meter would have resulted in underexposure of your dog's white coat, as indicated in the dark bands. The extra light from the flash essentially resulted in "overexposure" of your subject (think "fill flash"). Had your dog been black, the shot would have been truly overexposed.

Had I known you were just a seller trolling for the value of your camera I wouldn't have wasted my time.

@Collector-20 - This wouldn't happen to be you, would it? Rare Film Camera Giorgio Moretti F.A.F. Acies the Only One on Ebay. | eBay

Reply deleted. Sorry, I just realized the link I posted was to the OP's own article on this camera.

Uncommon but pretty run-of-the-mill viewfinder camera for the period: Acies - Camera-wiki.org - The free camera encyclopedia FAF Price Guide: estimate a camera value (collectiblend.com) Unusual in that some were dual format (i.e., half- and full-frame 35mm).

As SCL noted, a potential problem with using sunlight is heat which could cause the grease in the focusing threads to break down, resulting in oil migrating to the lens surfaces and the blades of the diaphragm. One option would be to use ultraviolet light which kills fungus. Just make sure you get a UV lamp or bulb that puts out the proper light: Does Uv Light Kill Fungus - Quick Answer 2021 (uvlighthub.com) As others have mentioned, store your lenses in a cool, dry storage area with decent ventilation. If you use dessicant packs, make sure it's silica gel:

Appears to be a genuine black body to me. The key item is the white dot on the self timer lever. On factory black bodies, rangefinders and SLRs, there is a concave dimple on the lever which was painted white. Also, the chrome on repainted bodies would be visible when the black paint wore through. I've never seen a fake black body where the counterfeiter went to the trouble of removing the plating from the brass body panels. All of the painted parts and lettering look identical to my black Canon FTs. If this is a fake, the counterfeiter would be better served making $100 bills. My recollection is that early Canon black bodied cameras (i.e., rangefinders, Canonflexes and FL mount cameras) were hand-built on a separate production line in small batches of 100 or 200 cameras. This would be my guess as to how many black FXs were made. I'd also speculate that most of these were sold to professional photographers and to Japanese consumers. Popularity and sales of Canon SLRs didn't take off until the introduction of the Pellix, FT and TL. The cachet of having a black version of a camera took off in the 1970s. My guess is that full blown production lines were used to manufacture black bodied FTbs and all subsequent models.

The DX codes for ASA 200 and 320 differ by one digit. Try cleaning the contacts in the camera's film chamber. Also clean the DX coding contacts on the film canister to remove any debris. Film DX Coding – A photographer’s life hack - Photo Thinking - Technique