gordon_curtis

Beautiful camera. As others have said it probably does have stuck shutter leaves. A quick google finds: which might be useful to you. Also useful might be: where the author mentions a low light locking mechanism? I have used similar Yashica, Petri and Taron cameras, and the results can be stunning. The biggest stumbling block, even when you have a good film camera, is getting the film developed well. I have now given up on high-street shops as the chemicals are usually worn out and they do like to blame the camera! I did have good success using a specialist via post, but this is not so cheap once you take into account the postage too. Have a bit of a google – you should find out some more info. Best of luck with this Gordon

Hi all, Apologies for being absent! Having got a bit depressed at having several films being ruined by various developers I've not been doing too much film photography lately. That said, my for my last films I used AG and they came back very well, but not cheap once you add postage. Anyhow – I thought this thread was dead, and unfortunately it has the Photobucket curse! Anyhow, I've tracked down the photos and will attached them again below, I hope they are helpful to someone! PS, Gererdopane, if you've managed to get your camera working I would love to see the results.

<p>Very good photo's.<br> I loved my Minister D and used it for several years until the lens mechanisms failed. I found it took rather good colour photographs too – rich in colour and nice and sharp. I have an ongoing project to fix a Minister 700 using the parts from the D – though it has stalled somewhat!</p>

<p>As promised, a couple of photographs of the repaired camera!<br> <img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Cavalier%20Front_zpswpcwxwyw.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p><img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Cavalier%20Back_zpscds8zbvu.jpg" alt="" /><br> I took the completed camera with me on holiday to Cornwall, near Liskeard. We had, without doubt, the worst weather we have ever had on holiday - it rained every day except for the Thursday, and we came home on the Friday! That said, there were times when the clouds parted and let a bit of sunshine through. I did manage to put a couple of 24 exposure Fuji 200asa negative films through the camera.<br> I found the camera a little difficult to focus, the rangefinder image being a little dim (50 years has probably taken its toll) and the rangefinder requiring a bit more adjustment to line-up. I liked the knob on the focusing ring though, as it saved having my whole hand around the lens barrel. The aperture reading in the viewfinder was small but legible - if a number wasn't visible, moving the camera slightly would bring the number into view. The shutter button and winding lever were well placed. There is a small button on the bottom of the lens that needs to be pressed to set the camera at its slowest shutter speeds (When a tripod would be needed). One thing I did find awkward was having to hold down the rewind button on the camera base whilst rewinding the film.<br> The results? Well, a few shots were badly over-exposed. This might have been down to me setting the shutter speed too slow or casting a shadow over the light-sensor with a finger, or the meter and mechanism not working well at slower shutter speeds. The camera did seem to work well at 1/500 in bright conditions. Some of the close-up shots did not focus well using a large aperture, but were probably only a couple of inches out, and that might improve with adjusting the rangefinder a tad. Anyhow, below are the best of the pictures.<br> <img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Boats%20Looe%201_zpsuyhaqpgj.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p><img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Boats%20Looe%202_zpstbveq0ew.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p>Two photographs from looe. The rain had been on-and-off all day - the sun came out as we were heading back to the car, so I let my wife and children carry on while I took a picture from each side of the bridge. It was very windy (just look at the water), so I set the camera to 1/500 as I was being blown about a bit!<br> <img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Plymouth_zpswmcbzout.jpg" alt="" /><br> A view over Plymouth, from near the fort. Another totally wet and blustery day. The rain stopped for a couple on minutes and I took this shot. I've cropped it down a bit as I thought it made a better panorama.<br> <img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Alfred%20in%20Morissons_zpswagotk8s.jpg" alt="" /><br> A photograph of one of my boys in Morrisons. The light was good and I liked the colours, so I set the camera at a higher shutter speed to get a nice large aperture, and a short focal depth.<br> <img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Robin%201_zpsmn3e95i8.jpg" alt="" /><br> A photograph of my other boy running on the beach. Again, it stopped raining for about twenty minutes, and this was the only time we actually had some time on the sand! Very difficult to get this photograph as he was such a fast moving target. Later on in the holiday he actually walked backwards and forwards to prevent me from focusing on him – Little Monkey!<br> <img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Eden%201_zpso5ywczpm.jpg" alt="" /><br> A picture from the Eden Project. At £25 per adult and £14 per child, pretty poor value for money per photograph; but did I mention it was raining...<br> <img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Steam%20Engines%201_zpsfvexvvk3.jpg" alt="" /></p> <p><img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Steam%20Engine%202_zpsuiglvn2l.jpg" alt="" /><br> The sun came out on the last day when I took the following pictures. Launceston Steam Railway was wonderful.<br> <img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Holiday%20Challets_zpsdlag4ute.jpg" alt="" /><br> And finally - beautiful blossom on the trees in the chalet park where we stayed.</p> <p>Gordon</p>

<p>Good morning all,<br> Thank you for all the positive comments!<br> I have just (Last night) finished putting it back together! I used some leather-effect self-adhesive vinyl off a well known auction site. It was a little on the thin side, so backed it with a couple of layers of 'normal' s.a. black vinyl. I don't think I would use it again – but I think my wife would complain if I didn't use yet another thing I've bought on-line! Anyhow, with some careful measuring and cutting – it looks fine.<br> I will be testing it out for the first time next week, so will try to post more pics then (now I know how to do it!), and include one of the finished camera.<br> Youtube – gasp! It has taken me long enough to figure this out!<br> And yes, some projects take an awfully long time to progress – I have a Minister D and Minister 700 (YES!) which both need repair. I am in the process of combining the two to make one good one (a 700), and have been for about a year!<br> King regards<br> Gordon</p>

<p>Here are all the pictures.<br /> Phew!<br /> Gordon<br /> <img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Bits%20LR_zpsvs3coomr.jpg" alt="" /><br />Camera in bits<br /><img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Rangefinder%20LR_zpslsosfeo8.jpg" alt="" /><br />Rangefinder with card lifted for removal and cleaning<br /><img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Light%20Sensor%20LR_zps9mnka8x3.jpg" alt="" /><br />Light meter front<br /><img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Aperture%20auto%20adjustment%20LR_zpsptrhsp4t.jpg" alt="" /><br />Light Meter back<br /><img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Aperture%20Readings%20LR_zps7fdudbkr.jpg" alt="" /><br />Aperture readings viewable in the viewfinder<br /><img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Camera%20Bottom%20LR_zpswwlc2iv3.jpg" alt="" /><br />Under the base plate – the switch is in the bottom right-hand corner<br /><img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Access%20plate%20front%20LR_zpsivkxsfkh.jpg" alt="" /><br />Access hatch for the pesky spring<br /><img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Lense%20Inside%202%20LR_zpsb9efcpie.jpg" alt="" /><br />Inside the lens 1<br /><img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Lens%20inside%201%20LR_zpssyrt7hpi.jpg" alt="" /><br />Inside the lens 2<br /><img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Camera%20Front%20Bits%20LR_zpstkorgann.jpg" alt="" /><br />Lens in bits<br /><img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Camera%20top%20front%20LR_zpsxo7otfhp.jpg" alt="" /><br />Camera front<br /><img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Camera%20top%20back%20LR_zpskr2lgghj.jpg" alt="" /><br />Camera back</p>

<p>I little while ago I made an impulse buy on ebay. Whilst looking for a Yashica, I came by a rangefinder called a Cavalier "EE" Auto 35. It looked in reasonable condition and was advertised as 'Manually tested and fully working' - and, as it didn't appear to be attracting much interest, I put in a low bid - and won!<br /> I have since discovered that the Cavalier was a re-branded Japanese Taron EE Auto camera, and is very similar to the Taron Marquis.<br /> Now, 'Manually tested and fully working' actually meant 'the shutter works but nothing else does'. The lens was too stiff to focus, the rangefinder was out of alignment, and the light-sensor and automatic aperture adjustment was not working.<br /> The camera is as nice to look at as any 60s Japanese rangefinder. It is well made and has interesting and advanced features for a camera of its vintage; it is also quite uncommon. I decided to have a go at repairing it, as I would very much like to run a film through it - that is why I bought it after all!<br /> There is very little information about how these Taron cameras work and their repair on the internet, so I was going in quite blind - and made some big gaffs along the way. So even though I am just a novice at camera repair, anybody who is 'lucky' enough to own one of these cameras may find the following useful!<br /> The film advance lever is removed by unscrewing the centre disc CLOCKWISE. It is a flat disc, so there is little to grip; so if it fails to move, some hot-melt glue and a wooden lollipop stick might help, and should be easy to peel off afterwards. Removing this disc will allow the removal of the frame counter and will reveal a brass nut with two holes - this is unscrewed ANTI-CLOCKWISE. The film advance lever can now be removed. The film rewind lever is removed simply by putting a small screwdriver through the pegs at the bottom of the shaft (where the film goes) and turning the top ANTI-CLOCKWISE by hand (No screws to undo!)<br /> Now to remove the top, unscrew the two small screws underneath the battery compartment, and the single small screw on the other side. The top will now lift off.<br /> With the top removed you will find the rangefinder, the light-meter and automatic aperture apparatus, and the film advance mechanism etc.. The rangefinder is fixed down with three screws, one screw is awkwardly obscured by the black card cover. The light-meter and apparatus is secured by two screws, however, DO NOT REMOVE THE LIGHT METER unless you are certain you need to remove it! There are a couple of levers that will need to be in the correct position when refitting the meter, and they are fiddly to say the least. But worse that that - if the aperture control linkage drops down, a spring will fall off inside the camera body and will require the removal of the leatherette to gain access!<br /> The rangefinder is tucked in-between the film rewind lever and slightly under the light-meter. The overhanging metal on the light-meter needs to be lifted slightly to lift the rangefinder in or out. With the rangefinder removed, there is access to a small amount of focusing thread. The focus on my camera was very stiff, but putting a small amount of watch oil in this area and moving the focus eased the problem significantly.<br /> It is probably best to unwire the battery compartment while the top is off, as this will save straining the wire and will allow the removal of the battery contact for cleaning. There is the smallest nut holding this wire I have ever seen! I did find using a Philips screwdriver the only way to get the nut started back on its thread when re-assembling.<br /> The bottom plate is removed by undoing two screws. Underneath the camera is a small switch for activating the light-meter - this will probably need cleaning up a bit. The lower half of the shutter-cocking mechanism is located here, and is all straight-forward to work on.<br /> To gain access to the previously mentioned spring on the aperture mechanism inside the camera body - the leatherette must be removed. On my camera this had gone hard and brittle, but was still very well glued down. Applying Nitromors very carefully with an artists brush, keeping away from the very edges but applying a good layer elsewhere, did the trick - leaving it for 24 hours softened and lifted the leatherette, but also dried out the Nitromors so it could do no more harm!<br /> Lifting the leathette reveals an access hatch next to the lens mounting - once opened the problem spring is easily re-attached. - then it is just a case of re-covering the camera in your chosen material (That handbag your wife hasn't used for ages might look nice and would probably contain the right amount of material...)<br /> When testing the light-meter and aperture - the shutter must first be cocked to activate the meter. If the top is off, the battery can be grounded on the camera body and the battery wire pressed against the + side of the battery. A magnet should then turn the mechanism depending on the amount of light, shutter speed and film speed settings. When the shutter release is pressed, the aperture mechanism will then drop until it is stopped by the moving metal bar, and the aperture is then set for the shot! On the opposite side of the metal bar is a plate with the aperture readings on - these are very small, but are visible in the viewfinder at the top. It may be necessary to adjust the height slightly to make them visible.<br /> The front part of the lens is removed by first removing three screws from around the outside. The whole front part of the lens is then unscrewed. Access beyond the lens is via a simple half-screw and a large ring nut etc.. I did not need to do any repair work inside the lens but did a small amount of cleaning. Be careful to screw the three external screws back in evenly when finished.<br /> To sum-up: I spent about a week-or-so of evenings taking the camera to bits and damaging it and repairing it. I could probably repair and clean a similar camera in two or three hours should I have another Taron with the same problems - which is quite tempting...<br /> I hope someone will find this brief and random repair guide useful - and perhaps it might help to save a camera or two - please let me know!<br /> Below are some images<br /> Kind Regards<br /> Gordon Curtis<br /><img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Bits%20LR_zpsvs3coomr.jpg" alt="" /><br /> Camera in bits<br> <img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Rangefinder%20LR_zpslsosfeo8.jpg" alt="" /><br> <img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Rangefinder%20LR_zpslsosfeo8.jpg" alt="" /><br /> Rangefinder with card lifted for removal and cleaning<br /><img src="http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Light%20Sensor%20LR_zps9mnka8x3.jpg" alt="" /><br /> Light meter front<br /> <img src="/bboard//i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Aperture%20auto%20adjustment%20LR_zpsptrhsp4t.jpg" alt="" /><br /> Light Meter back<br /> <img src="/bboard//i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Aperture%20Readings%20LR_zps7fdudbkr.jpg" alt="" /><br /> Aperture readings viewable in the viewfinder<br /> <img src="/bboard//i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Camera%20Bottom%20LR_zpswwlc2iv3.jpg" alt="" /><br /> Under the base plate – the switch is in the bottom right-hand corner<br /> <img src="/bboard//i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Access%20plate%20front%20LR_zpsivkxsfkh.jpg" alt="" /><br /> Access hatch for the pesky spring<br /> <img src="/bboard//i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Lense%20Inside%202%20LR_zpsb9efcpie.jpg" alt="" /><br /> Inside the lens 1<br /> <img src="/bboard//i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Lens%20inside%201%20LR_zpssyrt7hpi.jpg" alt="" /><br /> Inside the lens 2<br /> <img src="/bboard//i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Camera%20Front%20Bits%20LR_zpstkorgann.jpg" alt="" /><br /> Lens in bits<br /> <img src="/bboard//i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Camera%20top%20front%20LR_zpsxo7otfhp.jpg" alt="" /><br /> Camera front<br /> <img src="/bboard//i76.photobucket.com/albums/j40/Gordons_Shed/Stripping%20Cavalier%20EE%20Auto%2035%20Camera/Camera%20top%20back%20LR_zpskr2lgghj.jpg" alt="" /><br /> Camera back</p>

<p>Hi there,</p> <p>I know this thread is quite old – but I thought this information might be useful to someone trying to dismantle a Taron or similar camera. The model I am trying to repair is a Cavalier EE Auto 35, which is almost identical to the Taron EE Auto 35, and very similar to the Marquis.</p> <p>To undo the film-advance lever – turn the small silver plate in the centre of the lever CLOCKWISE! If it won't budge, some hot-melt glue and a wooden stick might help – and should be quite easy to remove when done. The brass screw underneath turns ANTICLOCKWISE.</p> <p>To undo the film rewind lever – put a screwdriver through the bottom of the spindle inside the camera (Where the film goes) and turn the lever by hand ANTICLOCKWISE (No screws to undo!)</p> <p>Hope this helps somebody!</p> <p>Gordon</p>