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giovannigorgonzola

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  1. karstenente started following giovannigorgonzola
  2. giovannigorgonzola
    (For anyone who does not speak German like Karstenente) My method was the following: Disassemble the camera bottom using these 4 screws: (take lens and back off, turn camera 90° counterclockwise. Roll a D20 dice. Anything below 15, you may proceed) Loosen the screw on this axle, but do not remove it. It holds the spring in place. Take a small screwdriver, get it between the screw and the latch in the spring. Slowly move the latch around the axle. You probably need a second scredriver or a pair of tweezers once you reach underneath the axle. I dont know if this image helps: It took me a couple of tries. But fear not, if you slip (and the spring turns back) it will probably catch the screw. You will loose your progress, but wont make anything worse than it was before. As I sad, it did not fix my problem completely. My camera still has a delay of 1-2 seconds. Probably old lube, as orsetto said. But hey, better than nothing! Hope I can help future wanderers who stumble into this rabbit hole. Cheers
  3. giovannigorgonzola
    Hello again, I think I fixed it. Not perfect, but at least in somewhat working order. I disassembled the lens until all but the shutter and apeture were left (very scary moment). I did not know how to lubricate the inner workings of the lens, so I decided it was working good enough. I tried to disassemble the sides of the body multiple times, but could not find all the hidden screws. But today I looked at the bottom of the camera and decided to start the disassembling process there. Turns out, all the important mechanism is hidden there (at least the parts I needed). In the end, I just tightened this spring (marked in orange) It seems to be responsible for firering the shutter, flipping the mirror and so on. The camera does not fire instantly, but within 1-2 seconds. I might be able to tighten this spring a little more, but I am happy with this result so far. Maybe this 1-2 sec delay is caused by old lube, i'll tinker around with it after the first roll of film is done. It now fires every time, compared to only firering upside down or after a bit of wiggeling.
  4. giovannigorgonzola
    Alright, thank you for your help. Returning the camera is not really an option because shipping and import fees account for almost half of the price. I'll take a look around town for someone able to repair it, or I have to find out how to disassemble it myelf. Anyway, I'm glad you (two) helped me through this mystery
  5. giovannigorgonzola
    Mamiya RB67 - Google Drive (I made the shadows a little brighter. This has damaged image quality, but should improve visibility of the light baffle and such)
  6. giovannigorgonzola
    After hours of tinkering around with googledrive and youtube I finally managed to get the videos to upload (I think google does not like my vpn). Once the upload is complete, I will post a link to the folder. If you want any other viewing angles, just tell me what you want to see.
  7. giovannigorgonzola
    I have got a strange result for you: I tested all the different shutter speeds (top row) 3 times (below, in seconds). [now would be a great time to insert an excuse for my handwriting, but I did not expect to get results as interesting as these] The delay between me pressing the shutter button and it firering is always somewhere between 7 and 16 seconds, except for the first 2 tries with 1/250 sec exposure (only fired when i wiggled the camera)
  8. giovannigorgonzola
    The lens fits snugly once the bayonet ring is tightened. I just had some trouble attaching it to the body, but maybe thats because I'm used to the M42 screw mount? I don't think this possible (if existent, its tiny) misalignment would come across with a photo, I can't even see it myself (its more of a 'this feel a little off' rather than 'this looks off') I am now at the point where the shutter (sometimes) fires, but only after ~15 seconds (still, better delayed than no shot at all, right?) The guy who sold it told me the camera sat in a box for years, so maybe it just needed some warm up?
  9. giovannigorgonzola
    I got the same phenomenon again: about 3-6 seconds after I pressed the shutter, the coupling arms extended (and retracted). Then, once I wiggle the bayonet ring, the shutter fires. I just found out, it does not have to be the bayonet ring, a strong wiggle on any other part of the lens seems to be enough. It seems like the connection between the lens and body is not perfect. Or its a spring inside the body which just needs this tiny amount of help (wiggle) to fire the shutter. One side note that might be related: the lens does not seem to sit perfectly straight on the body. Maybe its just me, maybe it really is a fraction of a degree off. Not sure. It does take some back and forth to get it on and off the body.
  10. giovannigorgonzola
    To describe the problem in greater detail: In theory, (as far as I understand this machine) when I press the shutter button, the shutter within the lens shut close. Then, the mirror should swing up out of the way of the light, followed by the light baffle. (at some point in here the little metal bits should extend to communicate with the film back) Now, the shutter of the lens should open for the expposure time and close afterwards. If I attach the lens to the body, the shutter closes far slower than without the body. The mirror takes about a second to reach the top. The light baffle takes over 10 seconds (faster, if the camera points down) to slowly reach horizontal position. But now a new discovery: (I smell progress) I was able to observe the coupling arms extend (over the time of ~2-3 seconds) followed by the shutter firering (after ~10 more seconds) for the 1/2 second exposure time I dialed in. Maybe this is a new development, maybe I was too impatient when I first realized the cameras malfunction. Sadly, I was not able to recreate this progress apart from the 2 times it worked. The system now returned to being stuck on the 'light baffle slowly moving up - step' I will investigate this further
  11. giovannigorgonzola
    I was not able to notice any odd behaviour, no delayed movement or strange sounds. With the body, its one simultaineous 'clanck' sound of the mirror and light baffle flipping. With the lens, the initial closing is barely audible while the sound of the spring is easy to pick up. To be more precise about the force the lens requires: I can activate the shutter with my pinky (and I am not stronger than your avarage person), but it just seems a little to resistant. Similar to how tripods used for videography limit the speed, at which you can turn the head (if this is any help to you)
  12. giovannigorgonzola
    I tried both, with film back and without, but am now only testing the body-lens-configuration (to eliminate variables). The text on the body only says 'Professional', so its a Pro, right? I'll try the 10 times in just a moment
  13. giovannigorgonzola
    Hi, I recently bought a mamiya RB 67 with a mamiya - sekor c 127mm (1:3,8) lens. Upon arrival I read the manual and am fairely certain that I am not the source of the problem: Both, lens and body work fine on their own. The lens requires some force to cock the shutter as well as to fire it, but it closes and then opens again for exposure. Mirror and light baffle both flip up instantly within the body. But as soon as I attach the lens to the body, (yes, both body and lens are cocked) things get weird: when firering, the shutter of the lens closes (rather slowly), but stays closed. The mirror slowly swings up, takes over a second to reach the top. The light baffle stays down, but I am able to force it up by gently pushing it with my fingers. I dont think any light hits the film. And I tried both, mirror up mode and 'normal' mode on the lens, no difference. When I seperate lens and body, both work just as fine as before. I am very confused. (dear reader,) do you have any idea on how to fix this or what I might be doing wrong?
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