Jump to content

geoffs1

Members
  • Posts

    2,429
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

0 Neutral

1 Follower

  1. <p>If you have a CS2 license, Adobe released an update when they shut down the license servers a couple of years ago.<br> You can get the latest version: https://www.adobe.com/cfusion/entitlement/index.cfm?loc=en&e=cs2_downloads</p>
  2. <p>Just a comment about the polarizer: I don't use one for the simple reason that I want the reflections off the water.</p>
  3. <p>Another "skip 645" suggestion: since you're looking for the big-format experience, why not get an inexpensive 4x5 view camera? Film cost is similar, and in BW you can play with the full Zone-System per-shot exposure and development process.</p>
  4. <p>Another <strong>strong</strong> endorsement of the Canon 100-400mm IS.<br />The major reason I switched from Nikon to Canon 10 years ago was because of this lens.<br> I would guess that the vast majority of my photos are taken with the 100-400mm.<br> It's not perfect, but stopped down to around f/8 it is very sharp. The size and weight are manageable.</p> <p>Used prices for the first version seem to be around $700 so it's not too expensive.<br> An alternative these days would be one of the 150-600mm Tamron or Sigma lenses (although they are in the $1000+ range).</p>
  5. <p>A good way to get close to sailboats is to ask to go out on the race-committee boat at a local sailing club.<br> They are usually happy to have a photographer along.</p>
  6. <p>Scott,<br /> Probably the most important technical element to getting sharp photos like this is a high shutter speed.<br /> Luckily with boats you're (generally) not trying to get any motion blurring to show speed (like you do with the wheels on cars or the propellers on airplanes). With enough light you can usually use 1/500s and shorter shutter speeds.<br /> Even with good light I'll often bump up the ISO from its lowest setting in order to get a short enough shutter speed. For example, the photo above was taken with 1/800s and ISO 200. The higher ISO let me keep the lens stopped down into its "sweet spot" for sharpness (around f/8).<br /> Image stabilization will also help. In addition to sharpening the photos it also helps with framing and autofocus by steadying the image in the viewfinder.<br /> I always shoot bursts at the highest frame-rate my camera allows. As one of my colleagues once said, "there's always a sharpest frame in a burst". It's not a panacea, but it can help when you're forced to shoot at slower than desired shutter speeds.<br /> Cheers,<br />Geoff S.</p>
  7. <p>My $0.02.<br /> <br />An 8MP camera is OK. I still use my old 20D occasionally; a 40D would be much better (I almost cried when mine died a couple of years ago...).<br /> For racing and the like you will want a longer lens.<br /> My "go to" combination are the 100-400mm and 70-200mm.<br /> On a budget the 70-300mm IS would be good.<br> The EXIF says the photo below was taken at 180mm.<br> A good driver on the photo-boat is crucial.<br /> http://moving-target-photos.com/CRAW/2013MadTown/album/index.html<br /> <img src="http://moving-target-photos.com/CRAW/2013MadTown/album/IMG_5469_screen.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="600" /></p> <p> </p>
  8. <p><strong>BTW, don't use "bulb" or a long exposure to open the shutter.</strong><br> There is a "Sensor Cleaning" mode that will open the shutter but not energize the sensor (which can cause it to attract dust via an electrostatic charge):<br> <img src="http://4.static.img-dpreview.com/files/p/articles/1699571491/Images/captures/1000D_tools2.jpeg" alt="" width="240" height="180" /></p>
  9. <p>I've always used plastic-bag style rain covers: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Rain-Capes-Covers-Slickers/ci/3313/N/4075788778</p>
  10. geoffs1

    Tricycle

    Lots of tricycle photos at: http://moving-target-photos.com/2016-NABSA-NAs/<div></div>
  11. <ul> <li>http://www.adobe.com/digitalimag/pdfs/understanding_digitalrawcapture.pdf</li> <li>https://www.adobe.com/digitalimag/pdfs/linear_gamma.pdf</li> <li>"Real World Camera Raw" by Bruce Fraser and Jeff Schewe</li> <li>"Real World Image Sharpening" by Bruce Fraser</li> <li>"Real World Color Management" by Bruce Fraser, et al. (I can't remember all the authors).</li> </ul> <p>These there articles and books were instrumental in helping me understand the characteristics of digital imaging so I could use my camera and post-processing tools to get the results I wanted.</p>
  12. <p>I think the third paragraph pretty much tells the tale (emphasis is mine):</p> <blockquote> <p>Brooklyn is the second Beckham child to work with Burberry after his younger brother Romeo’s role in the label’s Christmas advert, <strong>which attracted 11m views within 48 hours of launching.</strong></p> </blockquote>
  13. <p>Nice day to fly to Oshkosh...</p><div></div>
×
×
  • Create New...