gary_hudes

Hi Erwin, Maybe coincidence? Yes, the 4.5 x 6 back for the SL66 does produce 16 exposures on a roll of 120 film. I finally bought and used one of these backs shortly after my last post and it works as designed: 16 exposures. I had incorrectly thought that there was a problem getting 16 exposures from this film back, probably because of my misreading some other posts. I then wondered if a regular 6 x 6 back could be altered to get 16 exposures if one closed off part of the back, thus making the open area 4.5 x 6, while also changing the film transport spacing/sensing. After corresponding with the Rollei people in Germany, I abandoned this idea! The 4.5 x 6 back works fine....

Re: my last post above, it occurred to me that the spacing between frames may be fixed, no matter what the film thickness, 120 or 220: If the SL-66 transport mechanism depends on the 'feeler' or friction roller in the back near the take up spool to signal the length of film advanced, then my idea should not work. So much for that, but was hoping there was a way to get 16 images on a roll of 120 film using the 4.5 x 6 back. I don't understand why Rollei did not design the back to do this.

Very useful information that helped me with this problem last year. Given the film thickness and sensor mechanism for proper film transport, I wonder if it is possible to manipulate this to get more than 12 images on a 120 roll of film when using the 4.5 x 6 film back. In other threads, it has been noted that you still get only 12 images using this back, which I assume means that the spacing between frames is greater. What if you set the back for 220 film (24 exposures) in a 4.5 x 6 back and then searched for an optimum spacing between the sensor and removable film insert such that you could vary the space between exposures, thereby "squeezing in" more than 12, and optimally, 16 images per roll using this back? Has anyone tried this? I'm very tempted to experiment with a roll to see if this is possible.

I am enjoying manual focus shooting with a Minolta X-570 film body. I would use the rokkor lens mainly for distant nature shots and hope that at long range and f8, focus would not be difficult after some practice. I am prepared to use a tripod or monopod if necessary. I have not bought the lens yet, but am considering this light weight, portable option. Alternatively, I could get the Minolta or Sony AF A-mount versions of the lens for use on my Sony a99 body which also has IBIS. This may be the easier way to go for a higher number of in-focus shots and the immediate feedback to see how I'm doing with the lens. Something important to consider!

Very nice contrast and background blur, and no "doughnuts" apparent. I'm considering one of these in the rokkor manual focus version, which may be a problem handheld.

You don't find these on any other lenses that I've used over the years. These are common features to the Minolta manual focus lenses, but I wonder how others use them, if at all. I doubt I would need this feature, as it only locks at the highest aperture setting, usually f22, on my lenses. Do others use it?

I will investigate all of these repair people, options. Other than the meter problem, the camera is in very good shape with shutter that sounds good (but worth checking the speeds), and a few small dust specks in the viewfinder. Definitely worth servicing. Thank you.

Many thanks, Brett. This information about the meter design and operation is most helpful! Gary

Many thanks, Murray. I am going to send it out for repair.

Can the electronics be repaired in the SLT-101? My copy has a moving exposure target loop that changes position with adjustment of the shutter speed and lens aperture, but the needle does not move and no lights come come on in the viewfinder when the camera is turned 'on'. The battery is new, and I cleaned the contacts. I'm not sure if this is a wiring circuit issue or if LEDs are burned out. Or if this can be done?