gareth_williams2

<p>Not sure about this but it sounds like the electrical contact within the lens that fires the electronic shutter may be intermittent due to dirt or corrosion (atmospheric). The connection is below the cable release socket on the lens and is normally in the closed position. When you insert a cable release the socket unwinds out breaking the circuit which is then closed by operating the cable release. I suggest you try inserting and then undoing a cable release a few times (no need to fiire the camera) This may well sort the problem. Unless you are adept at repair I would not recommend taking the socket to pieces and cleaning the contact yourself. The two screws holding it on do so against a t shaped bar and a spring and there are a few small bits to get lost! If this is indeed the problem it is a minor repair and should not cost much as there is little to disassemble. Repair manuals do occasionally come up online. I hope my tip above sorts the problem though.</p>

<p>The tube fitted is not relevant to the operation as the tube and lens are not interconnected and the ring setting purely manual. What is the situation when you use the green (N0 1) or the red (1+2) settings - is the ring smooth then?</p>

<p>I have never been able to get a sharp picture of a cloud. Clouds are by nature fuzzy. You are trying to achieve the impossible!</p>

<p>Try contacting Leaf/Phase one as their backs can usually be tethered to a laptop but I think it unlikely that these do live view unless some way can be found of raising the mirror (release cable to lens and fire shutter from body and then use stop down lever on lens might work but cumbersome!) Try the Frank Dearhoff site and ask a question if you are interested - he might help.</p>

<p>The chimney finder was made in two RZ models. One is for the RZ Pro and the other (Rare) for the Pro 2 and Pro 2D. Mamiya would for a time convert the first sort to make it compatible with the later camera and some users did this. It may be you have the later or converted model. It was also made without AE metering - check yours has a shutter speed dial.As both types are uncommon they go for good money.<br> You might have a later or converted model. You use it like the AE prism (Instructions from orphan cameras) - ensure that the camera shutter dial is correctly set! <br> I have to admit I do not use mine with the metering preferring to use handheld metering. Hope this helps.</p>

<p>Time we defined Medium Format! With film the smallest MF was 6x4.5 and no sensor is as big as this. Sadly there seems no prospect of developing a true (6x6 6x7 and larger) MF sensor - all the development money is being spent on lesser breeds with 35mm full frame quality catching them up (How about full 16bit Nikon). A true MF sensor would open up a distinct quality gap again?</p>

<p>A really fine condition Minolta Autocord might be worth a look. The lens is at least as good as the others and you might prefer the lever focusing. Welcome to the club!</p>

<p>Go for RB or even better the RZ as the mechanical shutters in the RB are most probably less reliable as the lenses age. The RZ is also a little less bulky, lighter and faster in use. Both RZ and 645 use batteries so I assume this is no problem. I always carry a couple of spares and they last a long time. Both the 6x7 cameras are capable of superb quality.</p>

<p>I was rather surprised too!</p>

<p>I suspect that the lens you have is the RB version as the RZ one has no shutter speed dial. It can be used on the RZ although the infinity will not be when the lens is fully wound in but you need to focus a little closer. The use of RB lenses on the RZ is covered in the RZ manual (Try orphan cameras). Advice is plentiful on line on this. Advice on the shift lens use is less so but the instruction book often comes up on e-bay (2 on now) but make sure you get the right language!</p>

<p>The problem is usually not rare! The between lens shutter and the in camera mechanisms get out of sync. Just try my solution- usually works for me!</p>

<p>Try firing off the shutter in the lens using the button on the side of the lens. You may need to use a cable release to do this if the button is in the out position (red ring showing. Have you got an instruction book? If not download one from Orphan Cameras. Hope this works.</p>

<p>Correct answer above but remember that as the flange to film plane distance is larger on the RB your infinity focus point will be forward of that on the RZ- not a problem but your ability to focus close is a little reduced.</p>

<p>I have owned Hasselblad 500cm and found it to be well made with fine lenses and not very different in size from a pro digital SLR. I now use an RZ preferring it over the RB because the lenses are mainly later designs and the interlocks prevent errors. The best Mamiya lenses such as the 50 uld, 65 l-a and 140 l-a and the longer apo lenses are at least as good optically as their Zeiss equivalents with the benefit of the Seiko electronic shutter which has high reliability on slow speeds compared with ageing clockwork shutters. I prefer the rack focusing of the Mamiya which gets me in close. I never understood the battery problem, they last for months and one always carries spares.<br> The killer as regards Hasselblad is the format. If you want square 6x6 then both are equal but if, like most, you find you shoot rectangular then the crop on the Mamiya (if any) will be less. I found that for a goodly number of shots I was using the 500cm as a 6x4.5 which seemed overkill.<br> Lastly- compare the prices!!</p>

<p>If you click on my name you can check out my portfolio many of which are scans. Find one you like and click on it to get a larger view.</p>