fritz_carlsson1

Paul, I am writing from South Africa so this may not apply to the US. Probably will to the UK. What I am referring to is made by BOSTIK. They make different grades of silicone sealer in tubes about the size of a standard toothpaste ditto. The black Bostik is called CAR and seems to be a little heavier than the clear or the white. I hope that helps you.

M42 lenses cannot be adapted to Nikon F and maintain infinity focus. The respective dimensions don't allow it.

Use black silicone sealer.

<p>Jack, that lever in photo #1, if released, appears to allow the rear portion of the lens to be rotated relative to the front portion. In photo #6 you can clearly see red and white index marks that are out of alignment. The default position is when the two marks are aligned. BTW, the Adapt-a-Matic,, interchangeable, Tamron mount was superseded by the later Adaptall and Adaptall 2 mounts. The solution to your mount problem would be to acquire an Adapt-a-Matic mount for Nikon F.</p>

<p>Vivek, just Google PS's name and go into the given site from Photo.net. From there you will be able to send him an e-mail message.</p>

<p>I cannot assume you are in India by your name, but if you are, someone who probably could help would be Subbarayan Prasanna who is a fairly frequent Forum contributor about Russian cameras. He is very adept at fixing them.</p>

<p>Ivo Ivo, to summarise the above, an observation from an old-timer:<br> From past experience Kodak cassettes were not reusable and required a tool such as a bottle opener to open. In contrast, Ilford cassettes could be opened by squeezing the cassette gently and popping off the end with your thumbnail. When used for re-loading film the same technique was used except the end was popped back on using your fingers. It was in place when you felt a "click".</p>

<p>How about a Pentax 6x7 with that lovely wooden handle and some lenses?</p>

<p>Did anyone on PN, in the good old days, ever use Kodak 2475 Recording Film at ISO3200, developed in Kodak DK-50? I used it for interior and low-light grab-shots at conferences. The negatives printed easily on account of the low contrast. Provided the negs were not blown up too large i.e. smaller than 8" x 10", the grain was acceptable. </p>

<p>The eagle on the camera, apart from having the German cross in place of the swastika, is the SS-eagle by the shape of the wings. The initials LSSAH, stand for the the SS-division: Leibstandarte SS Adolf Hitler, that had its origins in the SS Totenkopf Division. The latter supplied concentration camp guards. So much for a nasty piece of history!</p>

The best would be to use chromic acid i.e. potassium dichromate aaded to 98% sulphuric acid, but it is very hazardous indeed and not recommended for non-chemists. How about making a slurry of coarse sand in water in the bottles and then giving them a good shake by rolling them on a soft surface like a towel? The abrasive action of the sand should do the trick.

<p>I had a Minolta Autocord in the 1970s; BTW, the Rokkor lens is superb. I wasn't happy with the focusing screen fitted as, I seem to recall, it lacked a central microprism focusing aid. I fitted one made for the Mamiya TLRs, i.e. C220 or C330. It required minimal adaptation to make it fit and it functioned faultlessly.</p>

<p>Daniel, you need a history lesson. The WW2 German military cannot be equated with the Nazis. There were countless military who were not Nazis. A camera with the inscription on your fake Leica would have belonged to the SS, originally Hitler's elite "bodyguard". Most SS-members were probably Nazis, but certainly not all. </p>