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feanolas1

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  1. <p>I would rather choose an A7II if you don't plan to use rangefinder lenses, electronic finder s better and you get image stabilisation. I am so missing the IBIS on my A7!!!</p>
  2. <p>You can find neoprene sheets on the web, very much like the ones sold by Lenscoat. With a good cutter and glue, it's easy to make your own tailor-made version. Might not end as professional looking as Lenscoat, but it should offer the required protection nonetheless. If you know a seamstress, she might be able to put some stiches to reenforce the glue.</p>
  3. <p>Remove the rubber band on the focusing ring and you will be able to access to the screws that attach the ring to the helicoid. Remove them and the focusing ring can be removed and you will be able to access the helicoid and replace the parts.</p>
  4. <p>I think it is worth trying to fix it. I am not sure what you mean by slipping. A common problem is the screws that attach the helicoid to the focusing ring get loose. That is easy to fix, just remove the plastic band over the focusing ring and you will see the screws. If these are OK, it may be the pins underneath that slide in the helicoid. These are made of some plastic, maybe nylon or teflon, that degrades over time. Easy to replace if one can find something to replace them with.</p>
  5. The lens has to be fine tuned for infinity focus, which is a simple job with lots of examples available on the net and discussed several times here. Remove the focus ring rubber band, slightly release the three screws hidden beneath, adjust for infinity, tighten back and reposition band.
  6. Which is why most people here don't make a business out of their usage of FD stuff ! Alan, is you decide to jump into the digital wagon, consider the Sony A7, it's a huge game (as in fun) changer for us FD users. I even consider upgrading to the new A7II for the stabilisation feature: would be wonderful for using those big whites ! How about using that 800 without caring about vibrations !
  7. I don't buy that about differences between digital and film ISO. ISO is a norm and cannot be different from one camera to another. I tested lots of camera meters against each other and handheld lightmeter, there are differences, but nothing drastic. Some film cameras are calibrated to err towards over-exposing, typically low end cameras because they are supposed to use negatives. Others will under-expose because it works better for slides. Other than this kind of bias, they should all measure identically, digital or film. I check my cameras from time to time to see if they are aligned. I compensate using exposure compensation on the camera, as I almost never use it in actual action.
  8. Having a Alpha7, I think it looks much better than a T50, more like a A1... which is pretty nice! Of course lens adapters keep the focal flange, or at least they should. So the lens works optically exactly as on a FD body.
  9. I remember that the lens test at Chasseur d'images at the time conclude something like "this is the first zoom that bests all equivalent fixed focal lenses". It was THE best tele zoom in that focal range, and since it came in late in the timeline of MF lenses, it's probably still the best MF tele-zoom in history!
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