fast_primes

I have the original E-M10 and I have an OM-5 inbound! My questions are as follows: How does the OM-5 + ECG-5 compare to the E-M1 mk III in handling, features, etc? What can I expect in terms of performance and handling of the new OM-5 compared to the E-M10? Lastly, how does the E-M1 mk II (which I was originally considering) fare against the above 1. and 2.? Thanks for any comments! FP

Has anyone used at least 2 of these lenses and can offer a comparative analysis? The testing site opticalimits.com (formerly photozone.de), rates all three as excellent, with the 45F1.2 in particular, as being the best it's ever tested. Candidly, at being over a grand in cost, the 45 is beyond my budget, but still, it offers superb sharpness AND bokeh!!!

Sheryl, Consider making your existing 35mm prime the heart of your travel system. To that, I would add the new, very light and very inexpensive Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM wide angle zoom. Lastly, I would round it out with the Tamron 60mm F2.0 Macro. These three lenses should suffice to give you a simple, light weight, but high performance travel system. Leave the heavy zooms home. Alex

Thanks Gerry! But it's the built-in pop-up flash I want to use! How do I set it to give "just a hint" of flash, as you put it? Or rather say a quarter of a f-stop to start? Alex

I want to begin using fill flash on my E-M10. Especially using very low levels of flash to generate specular highlights to increase the perception of sharpness--a technique I read about in the Britsh magazine, Practical Photography. First of all which modes use flash? How do I set flash compensation level? I have a great deal of difficulty with the Oympus menu system--so please make your replies comprehensive. Thanks.

<p>Hi Olympus OM-D users,</p> <p>How do you set up your cameras to shoot political rallies (and stage performances to generalize the question a bit more)? What is your preferred shooting mode? How do you set your focus point?</p> <p>I shot a Democrat rally here in Philly, and had trouble getting the central figure in focus. Instead I captured too many foreground (back of head and phone camera) shots--with my core subject on the central speaking platform out of focus. I had trouble getting the OM-D EM10 (mk 1) to focus on the distant speakers. </p> <p>My lens kit was the kit 14-42 lens and the Sigma 60F2.8 prime lens.</p> <p>Thanks.</p> <p>Alex</p>

<p>Photographer David Ruether reviews most Panasonic's micro four-third lenses. Along the way he gets into such things as manufacturing sample variations, a few Olympus lenses, some adapted lenses, a rave for the Sigma 60mm F2.8 DN lens, infra-red usage, fish eye usage and more. Well worth reading. </p> <p>http://www.david-ruether-photography.com/MFT-Lenses.htm#25mm</p>

<p>For reference sake, I'm cutting and pasting the instructions from the above link:</p> <h1 >Using AF lenses in Manual Focus</h1> <p></p> For many photographers, tweaking or just using manual focus with AF lenses is a normal thing. <p>But, if you don’t set the camera properly, once you manually focus, a 1/2 press on the shutter wipes it all out.<br> you must do 3 things to set the camera up so your shutter 1/2 press won’t activate AF.</p> <ol> <li><strong>Change the “AEL/AFL” to Mode 3</strong> (Menu/Gears/A/AEL/AFL/OK/S-AF/>Mode 3/OK)</li> <li><strong>Make Fn1 to be your AF Button</strong> (Menu/Gears/B/OK/Button Functions/>/Fn1/>/”AEL/AFL”/OK)</li> <li><strong>Change the AF Mode to “S-AF+MF”</strong> (Menu/Gears/A/AF Mode/OK/S-AF/>/”S-AF+MF”/OK)</li> </ol> <p>This will allow you to manually focus with the wired focus ring, and use the shutter button to take a meter reading and exposure. without the 1/2 press changing the manual focus you set.</p>

<p>I found the following reference on how to set an Olympus EM camera to manual.<br> http://olympusomd.net/e-m5-resources-in-sub-menus/tips-tricks-2/using-af-lenses-in-manual-focus/<br> I followed the steps outlines and it worked. However, I'm left with two questions:<br> 1--how do I reset the camera (EM10) back to it's default state?</p> <p> 2--is there a simpler way to switch to manual focus?</p> <p>Thanks.</p>

<p>Any gotcha's on using a Nikon 85F1.8 G lens on models like the Nikon D5300? How about back-focus or registration issues? Since the D3xxx/D5xxx do not offer autofocus/back-focus(?) adjustment of the D7xxx series, can I be sure Nikon's production tolerances are on the money for shooting the 85 wide open?</p> <p>Thanks.</p> <p> </p>

I've had the E-M10 camera for a while, but am finally getting around to using it. I've skimmed the pdf manual and found it somewhat disjointed in presentation. So some questions: <ol> <li>Does iAUTO invoke the IBIS antishake mechanism? If not, why not?</li> <li>How does iAUTO determine ISO/shutter speed/aperture combinations?</li> <li>What options can be set that affect iAUTO?</li> </ol> <p>Thanks.<br> Alex</p>

<p>In the case of the Olympus E-M5 versus the E-M10, it must be pointed out that the newer E-M10 has CA/chromatic aberration correction while the older E-M5 does NOT (see dpreview's review of the E-M10)! Right there, this means the E-M10 will tend to generate cleaner looking jpegs than it's older sibling.</p> <p>The incamera CA correction was the tie breaker for me in choosing between the E-M5 and E-M10 (both of which are available for $500 with kit lens from B&H). The ONLY superior points for the E-M5 is weather sealing and a slightly better IBIS. Otherwise the newer E-M10 trumps the older E-M5--or so says dpreview.com.</p>

<p>In reading the review of the EM10 by dpreview.com, they state explicitly, that the EM10 does have chromatic aberration correction. Thus it will tend to generate slightly cleaner looking jpegs than the EM5. That capability (which it inherits from the EM1) is the tie-breaker for me. </p>