ethan_pines

Selling my Hasselblad H4x with battery + charger, only 10,656 actuations. Works great. Hard to find with so few actuations. Note that it's missing the tiny "H4x" badge on the right side of the body. Priced at USD $1650 + 3% PayPal + shipping. PM or ethan@ethanpines.com.

Selling my Hasselblad battery adapter, with the correct plate for the H5D-50. Also usable on the 50c + H4D-60 with a different plate (about $52 from B&H). This adapter enables simple use of the back on tech cameras by allowing you to power the back with standard 7.2V Sony NP-F L-type batteries. The adapter and plate sell for about $1,100 at B&H. I'll sell it for USD $350 + 3% PayPal + shipping. PM or email me: ethan@ethapines.com

Selling my gorgeous Hasselblad H5D-50 (CCD) camera + back with 27,408 actuations. I'm the original owner; bought it new from Samy's in L.A. Works perfectly and is in great condition. Sensor is flawless, the camera overall is cosmetically in great condition. Never dropped, always stored in a padded case. This is the 37x49 CCD sensor. I'm aware of the advantages of CMOS, but it's true that CCD has a different look. I find CCD color and depth to be richer and truer. This back is also great on tech cameras, and it can be powered with standard Sony batteries (I'm selling the Hasselblad battery adapter in a separate post). I've used it plenty on an Alpa with great results. Read a getdpi post about its performance here: https://www.getdpi.com/forum/medium-...e-tell-us.html Priced at USD $4195 + 3% PayPal + shipping. Message me in photo.net.

Orsetto -- thank you for all this good info. I checked, and it looks like my lens is from 1989, so bad news there. I've emailed Zeiss, and I'll try KEH as well. Good suggestion. thanks ethan

I have an FE 110mm f/2 whose aperture blades no longer close / stop down. Does anyone know who can work on this? I emailed with Hasselblad NJ, and they say Sweden can't work on it. Nor can David Odess. thanks ethan

<p>First, there are a ton of similar queries already online. Here are a couple:<br> http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00GJa4<br> http://www.getdpi.com/forum/medium-format-systems-and-digital-backs/54003-hasselblad-cf-50mm-vs-cfi-50mm-lens.html<br> And some info / advice:<br> For optimum quality across the field at all apertures / distances, get one of the FLE versions (either CF FLE or CFi FLE). FLE stands for floating lens element. It's a second adjustment you make on the lens, based on your focusing distance, after you've dialed in focus. Yes, it makes a difference in sharpness vs the earlier C and CF versions you've listed (without FLE). <br> Between the CF and CFi versions, there is no difference in the optical formula. The differences are mostly cosmetic. I do prefer the look and feel of the CFi lenses, but it might not be worth the difference in cost to you. I've had the CF FLE and the CFi FLE, and they both performed equally well. That is, beautifully at all apertures. <br> My body is a 203FE, and I prefer the 2.8 FE version for the extra stop and the electronic contact between body and lens. It's sharp at all apertures, and there's not the extra FLE ring to adjust (that lens element adjusts automatically in this lens). If you're shooting fast in changing light or changing framing, it's quite useful to be able to use Aperture Priority and have the camera automatically adjust the aperture. The other lenses you list won't do that. </p>

<p>Since no one has yet done so, I have to point out the difficulties of using an SWC for a close-up portrait. Even though the SWC's lens offers great depth of field, that DOF decreases dramatically at close ranges (as with any lens). Of course it all depends on how close you're actually focusing, but how are you planning on focusing accurately? Even if you are able to accurately rely on the lens's markings, you'll still have to measure from the focal plane to his eyes / the point of focus. That's a tough way to shoot a quick portrait. And the close distance markings on the lens might not even be spot-on. You can attach a groundglass to the SWC and focus that way, with the lens open in B setting, but then you need to have him hold completely still while you close the lens, remove the groundglass, add the film back, etc. </p> <p>Also, if you're truly shooting a close-up portrait, that very wide lens is going to exaggerate the front features of his face and the protrusion of his nose. Anything close to the camera is going to appear unnaturally large and exaggerated. This might be the effect you're going for, but it's definitely something to be aware of. It's not a flattering effect. </p>

<p>I went through a few viewfinders before landing on what is by far my favorite: the HM2 chimney viewfinder. It has a higher magnification than the prisms. The magnification is slightly lower than the standard flip-up magnifying glass in the waist-level viewer, but that standard viewer only provides a clear view of the <em>center</em> of the frame when the magnifier is flipped up. With the HM2 finder, you have a clear view across the whole frame, so you can focus on something off center without recomposing. <br> The HM2 is also light and won't add any noticeable weight to the body. It does not have a meter though, if that matters to you. Some of the prisms have meters. <br> The view in the HM2 is reversed right to left (as you have now), but you'll get used to that quite quickly. It becomes second nature, no problem. You'll keep your current screen. By the way, I never use the split lines unless I'm focusing on something like a vertical pole or another vertical line. For people and virtually everything else, I just focus until the image is at its sharpest on the ground glass. <br> Note that, if you get one, on reflex bodies, the eyecup at the top should be turned counterclockwise all the way. </p>

<p>Paul -- sorry for the long delay. It's been a while since I developed B&W, but I believe I did solve the problem. I added a pre-soak prior to developing, I left less room in the tank for air during development (filled the tank to the top with my developer/water combination), and I started knocking the tank harder to knock off bubbles. If I were you, I'd do a test adding in these elements before developing anything important. <br> My film with the spots was either Neopan 400 or Acros 100 (both in 120). </p>