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eric_meyer

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  1. <p>I've been shooting an XT1 for most of a year now and like it. Handle one before you make your choice; the viewfinder is far better and easier to use, and that makes a huge difference to me.</p> <p>By the time you've bought a few lenses, the cost difference between bodies will seem minor. That said, if it still seems an issue I'd get an XE2. Fuji is very good about firmware upgrades bringing new features to older models, and somehow I just don't like the XT10. There's no point in moving the VF to the center and having a lump there if it's still small.</p> <p>I do think it's good that Fuji offers different designs, like XE2 vs XT1. (Not to mention X-Pro with the optical hybrid VF!) Each is nice in its own way, and fun to use.</p>
  2. <p>Thanks for all these great ideas.<br> <strong>@David Henderson:</strong> These are 35mm negs. I would want to be able to print from the scan not just view (so backup or substitute for the negs), but I don't think I've ever gone larger than 8x10. Some images (especially older) don't need to be scanned, surely more than the 20% exclusion someone mentioned in connection with ScanCafe.<br> <strong>@Allan Cobb:</strong> I wouldn't have thought of a refurb minilab scanner. Can it handle cut strips of 4-6 negs?<br> <strong>@others:</strong> ScanCafe seems to have mixed reviews online -- work done in India(!), QC issues, communication issues... (haven't looked into it yet myself)</p>
  3. <p>I know I'm slow getting around to an issue most faced long ago, but I wonder what the best approach is today. I have around 100 rolls of color negatives. What scanning options are still available, and what's adequate and cost-effective? Buy a scanner -- which? Or what sort of scanning, from a local shop? Any special issues with some rolls up to 40 years old? Thanks.</p>
  4. <p>I don't think there's a magical quality to R lenses, though they do tend to be a bit warmer in color and not quite as contrasty a look as most others. Optically, those I've used are all excellent, probably even amazing. The 35mm Summicron (my standard lens) is remarkably sharp even wide open, and unusually flare-resistant. The 50mm Summicron is a fine lens too, and the 90mm Elmarit is also one of the best ever made. If you get into the faster lenses, results might vary more, though I'm sure they're still very good compared to other equivalents.<br> <br /> The body matters too. I was never fond of R bodies, and if you don't really need auto exposure you might want to seriously consider an SL or SL2. Take a look through the viewfinder, and then try to put it down.</p>
  5. <p>My first real camera was the SP500 -- a prudent choice to get a teenager started, I suppose, but hardly what I would have chosen myself. Of course I loved it at the time and have some fond memories, but really, screw-mount lenses and stop-down metering, in 1972? It was a decent basic camera, certainly nothing special in any way. It didn't seem especially robust generally, except in the sense that cameras back then were all much simpler than today, so no idea how it would hold up 40+ years later. I didn't find out; was glad to replace it when I was able to, and wouldn't look back. (Curiously, today I have exactly the camera I wished I had then, a Leicaflex.)</p>
  6. <p>I just got an X-T1 and like it... but would never have done so with intent to adapt DSLR lenses to it, due to the bulk, crop factor, loss of features, retrofocus lens designs, etc.<br> Re: fast action, have you tried setting the AF mode to continuous? That should help. Also, have you looked into whether that 18-55mm is one of the quicker-focusing lenses in the Fuji range? (It wouldn't have been my choice... I went with the 23mm, and plan to get the 56.)</p>
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