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emily_brozyna

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  1. Is your life dedicated to being a snarky jerk? Don't you have something better to do?
  2. Major differences? Wondering specifically about photo quality/resolution.
  3. I also have a D90 I borrow sometimes but it doesn't seem to make a difference from when I shoot on my D3200.
  4. I have been somehow managing to grow my wedding & headshot business over 3 years while still shooting on my beginner camera, my Nikon D3200. I have 2 kit lenses, plus the following two lenses: Nikon 50mm f/1.8G AF-S NIKKOR FX Lens Nikon 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED IF AF-S DX VR Any recommendations for an upgraded body and my next lens? I hear to be considered professional equipment having a full-frame body is minimum. Thanks!
  5. <p>Hey Everyone! Thanks for the useful information thus far. Here are some more details about my problem:<br> The issue of the "refusal to fire" is happening when I shoot on both my D3200 and my D90. It happens in A (Aperture) and M Manual. It even happened at an event last week while I was shooting in AUTO with my lens set to M/A. Most of the time when it has happened, my lens was in M/A, my shooting mode was A or M, with ISO 200, Auto WB, Auto-Servo AF Focus Mode all while shooting in daylight. At the event, when it happened on my D90, I had the camera in AUTO and the lens on M/A. <br> What I am wondering is that since both the D3200 and the D90 are not professional cameras, am I just burning them out? In theory, even if the photo is out of focus (if my lens is on M) it should take the photo regardless. Never reject, and especially not reject while shooting completely in AUTO on all settings. This is what has led me to believe I am working the equipment harder than it was built for. I am shooting hundreds of photos per hour at events/portrait sessions. <br> Please let me know if you guys think it is still my technical error if I may be right that it's time to switch to a full-frame camera body! <br> Thank you!!</p> <p>original question:<br> Greetings! thanks in advance for any tips you can give me.<br />I. Often when I am shooting, my camera "refuses" to take a photo or "rejects" my settings maybe. I miss so many moments because of this. Generally my settings are pretty technically accurate -- I shoot in A or M, work with an aperture of 1.8-5.6, Keep my speed above 1/125 for hand-held shooting, ISO 100-400 depending, Auto WB and AF-S. Matrix metering. Dynamic or 3-D tracking, sometimes single point.<br />II. What settings are best for motion? I.E. a family session where kiddos are moving about and I am taking candids. Often when they run to my camera or the parents swing them towards me it's just totally out of focus or the shots won't fire. <br />thank you so much!</p>
  6. <p>Hey Everyone! Thanks for the useful information thus far. Here are some more details about my problem:</p> <p>The issue of the "refusal to fire" is happening when I shoot on both my D3200 and my D90. It happens in A (Aperture) and M Manual. It even happened at an event last week while I was shooting in AUTO with my lens set to M/A. Most of the time when it has happened, my lens was in M/A, my shooting mode was A or M, with ISO 200, Auto WB, Auto-Servo AF Focus Mode all while shooting in daylight. At the event, when it happened on my D90, I had the camera in AUTO and the lens on M/A. </p> <p>What I am wondering is that since both the D3200 and the D90 are not professional cameras, am I just burning them out? In theory, even if the photo is out of focus (if my lens is on M) it should take the photo regardless. Never reject, and especially not reject while shooting completely in AUTO on all settings. This is what has led me to believe I am working the equipment harder than it was built for. I am shooting hundreds of photos per hour at events/portrait sessions. </p> <p>Please let me know if you guys think it is still my technical error if I may be right that it's time to switch to a full-frame camera body! </p> <p>Thank you!!</p>
  7. <p>Greetings! thanks in advance for any tips you can give me.<br> I. Often when I am shooting, my camera "refuses" to take a photo or "rejects" my settings maybe. I miss so many moments because of this. Generally my settings are pretty technically accurate -- I shoot in A or M, work with an aperture of 1.8-5.6, Keep my speed above 1/125 for hand-held shooting, ISO 100-400 depending, Auto WB and AF-S. Matrix metering. Dynamic or 3-D tracking, sometimes single point.<br> II. What settings are best for motion? I.E. a family session where kiddos are moving about and I am taking candids. Often when they run to my camera or the parents swing them towards me it's just totally out of focus or the shots won't fire. <br> thank you so much! </p>
  8. <p>I am overwhelmed by all of the time you all took to write me the thoughtful and helpful responses. Thank you!</p>
  9. <p>This is great! Thank you so much for your time and helpful wisdoms! I am amazed at how you knew something so specific about my lens and how it behaves on my specific camera. What would you recommend I study to understand them so well ? <br> How could I get a high res, super sharp photo with a very large aperture? Better equipment? </p>
  10. <p>Hello,<br /> I am trying to figure out what's going wrong with my headshots. I am shooting on a Nikon3200 with a Nikon AF-S FX NIKKOR 50mm f/1.8G lens. I am saving as .nef and exporting as jpg in full dimensions 4000x6000 and 300dpi. Is it my camera? Is it my lens? Is it something I'm failing at technically? Is it how I am handling the file? <br /> Thank you for any wisdom you can share! <br /><br /> -E<br> <p></p> <img src="http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/00e/00e9jD-565574984.jpg" border="0" alt="Untitled" width="700" height="1053" /> <p></p> <a href="https://birchtreefoto.smugmug.com/Headshot/Dahianna-2/n-d4G6Q4/i-SgVmDXb/A">Link to Photo</a></p>
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