elle_lasta

<p><img src="https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d891fde4b00c779e7e57fd/t/5763f3d6579fb39c643b36e8/1466168284080/?format=1500w" alt="" width="622" height="454" /></p> <p>Thank you all very much for your contribution here. I ended up processing with HC-110 Dilution B at 6 minutes. I thought about Dilution H but didn't think it would make too much of a difference. Initially, I was told this was a 20-year-old film, but come to find out he took these on he and his wife's honeymoon 35 years ago in Yellowstone! There was quite a bit of light leak on the one side, but otherwise, I think they turned out pretty well!<br> <br> <img src="https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d891fde4b00c779e7e57fd/t/5763f3c0579fb39c643b3699/1466168267877/?format=1500w" alt="" width="622" height="454" /></p>

<p>Sandy, no worries at all! I'm so grateful for all the input I'm getting here! I was going to jump in and do this yesterday evening when I found out the center column for my Paterson tank is MIA--so I have a couple more days before the replacement arrives and decide what development time I should do. The owner of the film says he had kept it in a drawer all those years in controlled temperature (and I'm assuming humidity as well).<br> JDM thanks for the screen shot--that looks great! I'm only planning on digitizing the negatives--don't have equipment for printing at the moment so I will probably try and dodge/burn on software if needed.<br> Will update you all with pics! Thanks again everyone!</p>

<p>Thank you all so much for your sharing your insight in this! I am excited to start developing this film and see what we got! </p>

<p>I really appreciate everyone's input. <br> Sandy, here is the other side of the film you can't see the previous image. I also just read in another manual (http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f9/f9.pdf) that the Tri-X Pan Professional has been replaced by the Tri-X 320. I'm guessing it may not make too much more of a difference whatever box speed I choose to develop it as long as I probably do that 80% developing time as Alan suggested. <br> Glen I do have the HC-110 as well. I hadn't considered using it because my friend wanted a finer grain, but that might be a good idea since this film is probably pretty foggy. <img src="https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d891fde4b00c779e7e57fd/t/5751cd8eb654f988681fce78/1464978840464/?format=1500w" alt="" width="1224" height="1632" /><br> Thank you all!</p> <p> </p>

<p>Thanks Alan! That makes sense to me. This film is most likely not preserved well so it would be safe to assume it's pretty degraded. Do you happen to know what box speed these film used to be made 20 years ago? I've been google researching to no avail. All I see on the developing chart is 320 or 400. The person who shot it can't remember.</p>

<p>Hi all,<br /> I need some guidance on how to develop this 20-year old Kodak Tri-X Pan 120 film that has been exposed. One of my friends wants me to attempt developing it. It doesn't have a box speed on the film itself and I don't see a reference on any developer charts I can find online. I have the Ilfotec DD-X developer I can use. Suggestions on dilution ratios, times, temp, agitation? I have no idea how this will turn out, but just thought it would fun and interesting to do!<img src="http://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d891fde4b00c779e7e57fd/t/57519357044262124f410a9d/1464963951103/?format=1500w" alt="" width="1224" height="1632" /></p>

<p>Hi, one of my friends handed me a Kodak Tri-X Pan Prof. 120 film that is about 20 years old. It is exposed and he wanted me to attempt developing it. I have the Ilfotec DD-X that I can use. I do not see box speed on the film itself (photo attached) and do not have reference in developer charts...any input and help appreciated!<img src="http://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d891fde4b00c779e7e57fd/t/57519357044262124f410a9d/1464963951103/?format=1500w" alt="" width="1224" height="1632" /></p>