dwight200

<p>Have you considered using DSLR Dashboard? I recently got it and tried it out for some focus bracketing.<br /> <br />I used it with my Android phone, but I believe the program is available for Windows also. Not sure about Mac. The download is free. The only thing I needed was a "On-The-Go" adapter for the USB cable. Radio Shack supposedly carries them but when I went to get one they were out. I ordered one online from Amazon but it took several weeks to actually get it. You might have better luck ordering online from Radio Shack. Not sure whether you need one of them when using a computer instead of an Android phone.<br /> <br />The program will do Live View so you can display the image on the computer (and presumably through the projector). You can control all the stuff on the camera from the computer. <br /> http://dslrdashboard.info/</p>

<p>I've been using digital cameras since 1999. The first couple cameras I got the store extended warranty on. The first camera I had I used the warranty. The second camera is still working. The third, and later cameras were Nikon cameras and have had no problems. I did not get a store warranty on them The only Nikon item that I've sent back for repair was a remote release that quit.<br> My feeling about the store extended warranty is that if it costs more than 5% of the purchase price per year of warranty it's overpriced. True, I did use one, but that was in the early days of digital cameras and I figured the technology wasn't quite mature yet. In the last 10 years none of my cameras has had any problems (knock on wood).</p>

<p>One thing you see occasionally is people trying to use the Bulb setting to open the mirror and shutter.</p> <p>This is definitely <strong>NOT</strong> a good idea. In addition to the danger of your finger slipping off the release button while something's in the way of the shutter, using Bulb implies that voltage is applied to the sensor, increasing the chance of attracting statically charged dust.</p> <p>The Mirror-Up setting is there for a purpose. Use it.</p> <p>I'm sure most people know this, but cleaning threads attract people who have never done it so it's good to be complete in the description of what to do and what to not do.</p>

<p>(1) Rocket blower. Blow out the mirror box and the camera end of the lens. Then mirror up and blow off the sensor. Lens back on and check for spots. I bring up a white page on my word processor and stick the lens right up against it at a small aperture. That way there's nothing imaged and I can do the whole job at my desk. If the first blow didn't work I try a second one.<br /> <br /> (2) If the blower doesn't work, I try the Arctic Butterfly. Same process.<br /> <br /> (3) If the butterfly isn't enough I use the swabs with eclipse. At this point the stuff is probably stuck on so it takes the liquid to make sure you get it off. I generally have to use two or three swabs. The swabs leave streaks of liquid on the sensor assembly that are visible, but they evaporate fairly quickly. Sometimes the first swab will leave some streaky residue. Usually the second one will remove that. Sometimes the second swab will leave some spots, but three have always left my sensor clean enough for me. I don't obsess over every last spot, just the large ones.</p> <p>PS: I use the pre-moistened swabs. That way I don't have to guess how much liquid to use.</p>

<p>There are plenty of wide vistas in HI, but you don't really need an ultrawide. Stitching technology is so good these days you can do a lot with it, even handheld if you're careful.<br> If I were doing a wedding and vacation in HI, I'd take the 24-70 and the 70-200 and probably the 1.7 and/or 2.0 teleconverter.<br> For the wedding, you might consider renting some gear there. Then you don't have to carry backups.</p>

<p>I got the 28-300 several years ago and use it frequently. I'm not concerned with absolutely the finest sharpness all the time and the 28-300 is very convenient as a general purpose lens for my purposes (primarily photojournalism type stuff and documentation). I don't sell photos so they only have to please me. The 28-300 is not as sharp as the 24-70-200, but it's pretty close IMHO.</p> <p>I kept my 24-70-200 and use them for indoor events where the f/2.8 is useful and I generally don't have to switch lenses a lot. But those are special events and for general use the 28-300 is probably on my camera 60-70% of the time.</p>