dror_guy

<p>Hi, <br> In firmware version in the setting menu of nikon d800e, I have letter and version: <br> A 1.01<br> B 1.02<br> L 1.009<br> S 7.001<br> From what I've read A+B is the general software version, L I guess is auto distortion feature version (??), but what exactly is "S"?? <br> Also and very strangely, I didn't have "S" there yesterday and all of a sudden it's there today without me installing anything... how come?<br> Thanks in advance, <br> Dror</p>

<p>small box of my black rapid belt and focused on the face of the girl on the box...<br> visually analyzed the shot 1:1 tethered on lightroom...</p>

<p>Hi all, <br> I'll start by saying that I have no focusing issues anymore (seems like it at least) but something is very strange with how the AF fine tuning works and I wonder if anyone has come across this... (Apart from that I assume it might cause problems in the future)...<br> So I purchased a new Nikon D800E a few weeks ago and getting accurate focus was very hard especially at max aperture... so I only used f/4 and higher. The sharpness was still acceptable but not enough to my mind.<br /><br> Anyway, yesterday I decided to look at the AF fine tuning and was amazed - I had a really serious back focus with all of my lenses! (so it's probably a camera issue).<br> So I worked tethered with lightroom and zoomed in 1:1 on an object I photographed (it was simpler then using a ruler although I did that too). The shots were made with maximum aperture on a good monfrotto tripod.<br> Took around 200 shots on all of my three lenses and carefully checked each image with different fine tuning values until I saved those three values: <br> 24-70 2.8G: -16<br> 50 1.8G: -14<br> 85 1.8G: -16<br> So now's where things got strange - I've retested and re-edited the values I saved... the first shot with the saved value (before any re-edit) was ok. Then i changed from -16 to 0 (24-70 lens) and still the same (in the first tests it was completely out of focus), then to +20 and out of focus then back to 0 was good but back to -16 was out of focus (that's the value that should be good)... Then I switched the AF fine tuning OFF and still perfect focus (before I first touched the AF fine tuning that setting gave clear back focus)... Same thing with all other lenses so I simply deleted all saved values, but still focus is perfect with AF fine tuning turned either ON or OFF...<br> So I assume the values were stored some where but not completely deleted (unless I got the something wrong - but I really worked hard on this...). Or maybe they will be deleted sometime in the future when I do a complete setting restore in the camera or something like that...<br> Anyway, the thing that is really bothering me is that it's obvious that the camera has a back focus and if the AF fine tuning values that I saved and deleted were still stored and saved for these particular lenses then it's not going to solve the actual problem - which is the back focus of the camera... further more, I deleted those values but they weren't actually deleted...<br> Anyway, I wondered if anyone has come across this AF fine tuning behavior...<br> Thanks in advance,<br> Dror</p>

<p>Thanks for the responses everyone. It was very interesting reading what you wrote.<br> I'm not quite familiar with the inner optical build of the lens.<br> A few points to note: <br> 1. There is indeed a very strong vignetting with the zoom lens. I corrected the vignetting in the camera and in lightroom (seperately) and still got a noticeable difference.<br> 2. As some mentioned - it might be that the 50mm 1.8G is over-exposing. I will try to compare it with other 24-70 of a friend/store.<br> 3. About the shutter blades blocking the light - I will see if I can look into that - as I said I'm not an expert in the optical build of the lens.<br> 4. About the T-Stop - heard about that before. Still not sure what that means but will into it.<br> 5. I made quite a few tests - the tests were indoors with no flash and high ISO. I will also do a test on f5.6. Normally at evening/night events I shot @f4.0 and try not to go below that (I also did a test @f4.0 and it gave me similar results of exposure difference).<br> I'll continue looking at this.<br> Thanks, <br> Dror</p>

<p>Hi, <br> I just got my new Nikon 24-70 2.8G. I wanted to test it against my 50mm 1.8 G. So what I did was take the same shot with both with same settings (it was ISO 2500, 1/80, f/2.8). Both lenses were on 50mm. The 50 mm 1.8G gave me a photo that was brighter by about half a stop (I checked the histogram and increased ISO for the 24-70 to see where they approximately match).<br> Is there a problem with my new 24-70? Is it normal that prime lenses are brighter than zoom lenses? It's quite important for me because I also shot in low-light events where every stop of light is crucial.<br> Thanks,<br> Dror</p>

<p>Ok, thanks everyone! :-)<br> I think I now understand where my confusion was... I thought that hue and saturation is an additional data information to the RGB data. But RGB and HSL are the same thing but on different scales and can be derived from one another...<br> So if I'm now right - camera raw gives us the pixel image data in RGB channels (the bit depth indicates the number of bits available on each channel). Then in Lightroom and Photoshop or any other image editing software we can brighten and darken these pixel RGB channels, but we can do it in different ways and on different scales (such as hue and saturation).<br> I also found this link with matematical conversions:<br> http://codeitdown.com/hsl-hsb-hsv-color/<br> Please let me know if I got it right this time.<br> Thanks again,<br> Dror</p>

<p>I'm quite new in this and don't fully understand... I'd be grateful for help....<br> When I take a photo from my understanding (which might be wrong)... Say I have a 12 bit depth camera... I understand that each RGB channel has 4096 values of LUMINOSITY.<br> If that is true - then where do the hue and saturation come from in the raw file?<br> Also, the color gamut palette which I see in wikipedia - does it describe different combinations hues or saturation or luminosity? (I guess it's not luminosity because I don't see any black there...)<br> Thanks, <br> Dror</p>

<p>Hi, <br> I've tested this plenty of times and taken plenty of shots.<br> I have a Nikon D7100 and when I put my flash on the camera (on ttl or ttl-bl), about one out of five images is underexposed.... I do wait until the recycle is complete. When I tested with my Nikon D3100... I do not get this problem... all images are consistent (I've also checked the histogram).<br> Has anyone had this problem or know of such a problem?<br> Thanks in advance, <br> Dror</p>