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drew bedo

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  1. Welcome to the LF world. Jump in . . .sure, BUT: The advice to get a camera on loan is a good idea for your first experience in the wild. At any rate, don't go online or out to a camera shop and fill up a back pack with new stuff right off the bat. Go into it at a lower level of financial commitment and see how it works for you. LF is different from other imaging modalities and formats. Many here will tell you to do what they did . . .coming from folks who have don LF for a while, it will all be valid advice, but each will be different. Whatever camera/lens combo you start out with will not be the only gear you ever own. Everyone's style and technique changes over time and your equipment needs will change too. My first outing was a vacation that included two days at the North Rim of The Grand Canyon. I had a pre-anniversary Speed Graphic beater and the lens it shipped with back in 1935 (or just whenever). That, film holders, meter and everything else was packed into a Jan Sport book-bag backpack with a Star version Tiltall tripod swinging out side. I had the leather jacket and soft hat, but I was NOT Ansel Adams! The point is that I got some great shots and got used to the minutia of shooting LF outdoors without maxing-out my Gold card. If the experience hadn't gone well I could walk away without missing a car payment. Still have that camera, but my go-to 4x5 is now a vintage Zone VI with several multi-coated lenses and a CF tripod all packed into a decent bag.
  2. <p>Regardikng films: I agree that in B&W the only current emulsion dating from that era is Kodak Tri-X. For color, aybe a Kodak color negative films.</p> <p>There is a software add-on for Photoshop that is supposed to emulate the spectral response and "look" of now departed films like Kodachrome, Ektachrome, Kodacolor and so on.</p> <p>In B&W I kike the still available Ektascan, a panchromatic medicsl film only avaiklable in 8x10. Chemistry is compatable with Tri-x.</p> <p>Please let us know what you do and share a few images.</p>
  3. <p>Thanks for those clarifications on the availability and cost-effectiveness of instant materials for large format photography. Wish it was a more cost-effective option.</p> <p> </p>
  4. <p>Sounds like a project for NASA/Nat-Geo or DoD.</p>
  5. <p>There was a process available from commercial labe called DuraTrans that presented an enlarged image in a durable plastic substrate for trans illumination. Perhaps that would work.</p>
  6. <p>If there was an "instant-ish" process that produced a positive in-camera existed that was economically viable , then I think Polaroid would still be in business with large format materials. They are not and instant materials for LF (4x5 only) from other sources are hard to find, unreliable and expensive.</p> <p>If the pinhole look is necessary to your creative vision and you don't have the patience for darkroom development, perhaps a pinhole adapter for your DSLR—coupled with a laptop and portable printer— is what you need to look at.</p> <p>I could be wrong, but I do not think that there is an analog based process that will meet your requirements.</p>
  7. <p>Sadly, this day has long been coming. A few years ago the amount of advertising by major companies shrank to just a few, then disappeared. The slippage in issue dates was another sign, My most "recent" issue, received in in May, was dated from the fall of 2015.</p> <p>Hope someone stepps in to fill the nich.</p>
  8. <p>Thanks everyone for that history. I understand the collector's premium on condition and. Setting aside condition (mine is in pretty good shape, but ungraded), it seems that the high-priced examples are said to have that radioactive element. How can this be determined?</p>
  9. <p>-Hello all,<br> Not a regular here on the RF forums so please be gentle.<br> I have inserted a a Leica M-3 with a 50mm lens. I have a good handle on the desirability and value range of the camera body—it is a good every-day shooter, not a collector. However, I do have questions about the lens.<br> The lens: 50mm/f-2.0 Summicron in LTM collapsing mount, S/N1364121. There is a screw-to- bayonet adapter ring on it.<br> I have seen lenses of this specification offered at $200-$350 on auction sites. I have also seen them at well over $1,000 , but don't know quite why they are so high (or desirable).<br> Can anyone help me understand this?</p>
  10. <p>Ok . . .so EVERY Saturday is out . . .but any time you are in town.</p> <p>Cheers</p>
  11. <p>Louis,</p> <p>Professional Camera Repair is a family business near Houston's Galleria shopping mega-mall . its a small store front and they sell used gear as well as fix it up. </p> <p>Every Saturday morning a few of us regulars meet there informally ~9AM for coffee, carbs and camera talk. On the second Sat of each month we have a more formal meeting in the back room (really—its in the back) with some show-and-tell, and sometimes a more formal program. All are welcome to bring an interesting piece or a recient image, drink coffee and share their knowledge.</p> <p> </p>
  12. <p>I am a bit old school, and prefer a simple balck rame and white mat for an exhibition.</p> <p>For an Art Festival, hang some framed prints and bring other prints mountes and matted in plastic sleeves presented in bins.</p>
  13. <p>so my understanding is that the prints will be mounted to a wood substrate with no mat . . .right? If that is the case, then archival consederations are not part of the project, and:<br> UMMM . . .I'd try to keep it as simple as possible and still do a good job of blackening the edge . . .my vote is for the marking pen.</p>
  14. <p><strong>eUse roll film to make a mask.</strong></p> <p><em>I have never done this, so the following is a thought experiment:</em></p> <p>Over-expose B&W roll film ( 35mm or MF) and develop it.<br> Load a sheet of 8x10 or ULF and tape strips of the exposed and developed roll film over it.</p> <p>Compose and shoot as usual.</p> <p>The exposed LF sheet should have a complete image that looks like multiple single shots done witha roll film camera.</p>
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