douglas_fairbank
Members-
Posts
78 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation
0 Neutral-
<p>The light leak you see can be explained by a bad fitting spoolholder. It will need to be fixed.</p>
-
<p>The deterioration of the anti reflective coating is not a problem until it starts to detach, usually as dusty particles. I expect paint will provide a short term solution but if the substrate is failing it won't be a permanent solution. Replacement is the best answer, either getting the panels exchanged with genuine Hasselblad replacement parts or using excellent alternative 'flocking' material from and optical specialist like Edmund Optics.<br> http://www.edmundoptics.co.uk/lab-production/general-tools/light-absorbing-black-out-material/54585/<br> In my opinion this material may be superior but only time will tell. Removing the old material is the hardest and dirtiest part, a hot knife blade is best!</p>
-
If you are thinking of working on this lens you will be pleased to know that it is much like the other Hasselblad lenses inside, the control rings are different of course. The front glass assembly his detached by unscrewing the ring in the centre of the lens after loosening the grub screw, the rear glass assembly unscrews from the back
-
Hasselblad Planar 80 mm C T* disassemble.
douglas_fairbank replied to pavel_l.'s topic in Medium Format
The rear optical group just unscrews, very easy with the correct tool but without it you would have a great problem holding the right part of the group to avoid causing any damage. -
Zeiss Planar 80mm f2.8 - Blurry Parts
douglas_fairbank replied to oliver_vogler's topic in Medium Format
With some of the all metal lenses it could be as simple as a loose metal retaining ring. With some of the later lenses a broken plastic part could be the problem and that is terminal. Good luck. -
<p>I think you will find that the ring unscrews into 2 parts and plain unthreaded filters will fit in. They sometimes are hard to unscrew and my recommendation is that you use a sheet of rubber or two and try not to 'squeeze' the ring as you grip it, use flat surfaces to get the friction you need.</p>
-
A12 back firing shutter with dark-slide still in.
douglas_fairbank replied to YosemiteSam's topic in Medium Format
<p>You have not reassembled it correctly, the lever and spring in the bottom of the slide chamber is the problem, you will probably find that the plate is not perfectly flat. Have another go.</p> -
You need to lift and slide.
-
Hasselblad 553 ELX problem: winding winding winding?
douglas_fairbank replied to donal_kelly's topic in Medium Format
<p>You may have 2 problems here. First fault, spacing is governed by the film magazine, the body, electric or manual, does not influence the film spacing so if you are getting 11 frames with large gaps you have a magazine fault!<br> Second fault is the motor continously driving and could be caused by (a), the drive failing to engage and is a mechanical fault with a gear connected to the lens drive, or, (b), a microswitch fault that fails to switch off the power when the body is cocked.<br> There are great repair guys out there but they may not be experienced with the Hasselblad cameras. Check through previous posts in this group to determine who is highly regarded in whatever part of the world you are in.</p> -
If the camera jams or the lens shutter sticks it is faulty! It will probably need a service (cla), the 'unjamming' is not a fix! If you do get the camera because it is in good condition please budget for a service. There is not a single problem that causes the jam up of a body, the action of the body shutter, mirror and lens drive all have to happen in the right sequence for it to work properly at the right time, this is why a complete clean and relubrication is the only realistic repair. A possible exception would be when a part is broken but if that has happened it will jam every time.
-
<p>Hasselblad service is available in the UK from Classic V (www.classicv.co.uk). Fully qualified and authorised Hasselblad partner.</p>
-
Problem with Hasselblad 500 EL/M triggering
douglas_fairbank replied to kelvin_franke's topic in Medium Format
<p>You can also release the camera from the DIN socket, please see the picture. You could also have a mechanical problem with the solenoid release, a connecting lever may have broken, if this DIN socket test fails in the same way I expect that is what it will be.<br> <img src="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5279928/DIN%20socket.jpg" alt="" /></p> -
<p>It could also be a very worn lens bayonet, if this is the only lens that has this problem.</p>