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dinesh.godavarty

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  1. Hey guys, I am in the market for a new tripod, and am thinking of buying used on ebay. I see a lot of Gitzo tripods, and a mix of 3 sections and 4 sections. How do 4 section tripods handle night photography with really long exposures? I just feel I should buy a 3 section, but there could be a perfectly fine 4 section tripod I could be missing out on. Thank you.
  2. Hey guys, I just bought the Samyang XP 14mm F2.4 lens. I have the EOS 5D Mark IV body. A few questions: a) The aperture shown on the body is 2.5. Does this mean the actual aperture is 2.5? or internally, the aperture of 2.4 is used? b) The hyperfocal distance for 14mm/f2.5 on the full frame body is around 2.61m. From what I understand, if I focus at that distance, everything from 1.3 m in front to inf will be in focus. However, I just did an experiment in which I changed the point of focus to see from what point everything becomes sharp, and the sharpness point was well beyond the hyperfocal distance! To better give an example, consider these two scenarios - focus at 3m. Theoretically everything behind that point should be sharp - focus at 6m. Everything behind that point should be sharp. My car was parked at 6m (the 6m focus was on the car). The license should have been sharp at both 3m and 6m focus point (from the theory of hyperfocal distance). However, the 6m focus is the sharpest. I can see a clear difference for my car's license between 3m and 6m. What am I missing? Am I misunderstanding the concept of HFD? The reason for this experiment is that I am trying to do night photography, and am trying to figure out what's the closest distance such that everything from that point (maybe slightly to the front of it ) to inf is in focus. Isn't that theoretically the HFD? Thank you.
  3. <p>Thanks all.</p> <p>Also, are there any great places around mt. hood area with great wildflowers, this time of the year? I was thinking I might check out mt. hood area, given How close I am to it.</p>
  4. <p>ok thank you for all these great ideas! </p> <p>Also, in any of the parks, how ok is it to sleep in your car? Does anyone know? For example, Ecola State park is a day use park, but if I wanted to do night photography, I need to stick around and maybe take naps in the car. Is that allowed? </p>
  5. <p>Hey guys, I am flying into Portland on the 21st of April and then flying back out on the 30th, which gives me around 8 days.</p> <p>I will spend around 4 days in the Columbia River Gorge, and that leaves me the other 4 days to plan out. I am pretty flexible, I was thinking of Painted Hills, Oregon Coast, Mt. Hood Area, Columbia Hills wildflowers etc. </p> <p>Any suggestion on what I pick as my itinerary? I am fairly flexible, except the first 4 days, since I have booked my campsite in Ainsworth State park to roam around the Columbia River Gorge. I do landscapes, and I was hoping to start doing a lot of Night Photography, since I bought a Rokinon 14mm lens :).</p> <p>Thank you!</p>
  6. <p>Thanks Stephen.</p> <p>I have the rokinon lenses (both 14mm and 24mm). I am guessing that they have been calibrated with digital bodies, given they are relatively new.<br> <br />But thanks for the tips. I was just curious on how to pick the plane of focus, fast and quick on the field. </p>
  7. <p>Hey guys, so I bought a completely manual lens with no focus confirmation. I am trying to calibrate my lens and trying to see if the focus distance markers are accurate (so that I don't need to go to live view everytime to focus)</p> <p>Questions:<br> - What does the subject distance mean for the camera? Is it different from the distance marks on the lens?<br> - Do different lenses have a different distance from the subject?</p> <p>Given my lens is 100% manual, and do any of the gurus have a recommended way to focus? I would love a quick way instead of going through live view for every shot. it gets very tiresome, very soon.</p> <p>Thanks.</p>
  8. <p>Hey guys,</p> <p>so I bought the two Rokinon lenses, 14 f2.8 and 24 f1.4. How do I actually check for the sharpness of the lens? That said, how do I check how sharp any lens is? When I look at the image on the pc, it seems to be fine. I zoom in, I see some softness, but I am not sure if that softness is due to the zooming or a lens defect. how do I tell?<br> <br />Thanks.</p>
  9. <p>Ah, thanks guys.</p> <p>Yes, I already have a very sturdy tripod. The reason I wanted to buy the Rokinon is that they seem to be rated highly in terms of the coma aberration, and people seem very pleased with it. I was planning to use it only for night photography, in the sense of taking landscape shots with the night sky (stars showing up as points, not streaks). </p> <p>The 16-35 f4 would be my workhorse for all the other "standard" landscape shots (sunrise/sunset/scenes in a forest). I don't need a fast lens as I would typically stop down for these shots. I am also leaning towards a 24-70/25-105 f4 lenses. I am a very stingy guy, so want to minimize the money I spent :)</p>
  10. <p>Hi Guys, I currently own a Canon 60D with the tamron 17-50mm that I use for landscape photos.</p> <p>I am thinking of upgrading to the Canon 6D, with additional lenses. I have been getting more into night photography, so am thinking of the Rokinon lens (either the 14 f2.8 or 24 f1.4). Which lens would the gurus recommend? Do both have the same sharpness, coma aberration performance etc.?</p> <p>Also, the second lens I was thinking of is the 16-35F4 L from Canon. This would be my primary landscape lens. Is this an overkill to buy this lens along with the any of the Rokinon's above? </p> <p>Thanks!</p>
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