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digitmstr

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  1. As Mel Brooks wrote "after the birth of the artist came the afterbirth, the critic" :) - in a learning environment critiques can be very useful if given and taken appropriately. Yes, everyone has an opinion, but a well thought critique could bring to light something the author may have missed or not even thought about. So, I would say expect nothing and everything, but take it accordingly.
  2. well, a MACRO lens is designed specifically for that purpose, so it will always be better than a zoom with macro *focusing* ability. Whether you need to spend the money on a dedicated Macro Lens would depend on how "serious" you are about macro work..If you only do it occasionally, may not be worth it. However, the 100m also makes a good portrait and all around lens, with some caveats.
  3. I keep adapters attached to the most used lenses. When I don't need them, I simply take them off and place them in the lens pouch until I am done shooting. Then, I re-attach them to the lens(es). Either way, many padded, neoprene pouches out there.
  4. because pictures are digital (assuming this being your case) they don't really exist, they are instead rendered each time we view them. The color of the image will be therefore depended upon the screen used for viewing, and this can vary widely. Professional photographers/editors/publishers go through great effort to *calibrate* their viewing devices to match the desired final output for the images (print, web, etc...). This is a process that requires certain tools and procedures to be properly done..
  5. the bell curve analogy above is good: there's still one focus point but the slope is the difference. In practical terms, with an aperture of f/8 and a 14mm you can get pretty huge DOF. However, that doesn't necessarily translate to "sharpness" because that is a function of the lens itself, the design, aberrations, etc...
  6. I have the 135L and it's a great lens, in every way. You can't go wrong with it and I got mine from Canon refurb for a bargain price (albeit years ago). I also have the 85 f/1.8 and it works well, even wide open.
  7. it doesn't but it DOES include full warranty as a NEW product. I bought many items (bodies and L lenses) from Canon refurb and never had a problem. Well worth it, IMO.
  8. The lack of IS may come back to bite you - have you considered the EF 300 f/4L IS - you could use it either of the new extenders (albeit with some quality "loss") and have options.
  9. the question is really "wrong", here's why: one must learn studio lighting in and its own, starting with how the strobes work, using one light, multiple strobes, light modifiers, reflectors, ratios, etc.. lots of stuff. However, that's just the "technical" side of thing, which is important and a necessary FIRST step, but in fashion you need to have a style you specialize in. Lighting will be a function of that style, not the other way around. It's a very competitive field and it will take a while for anyone to develop a unique style that would make them in demand.
  10. If the 135 is too tight and you don't like the 85, in any of its incarnation, try the 100L Macro IS. You'd be surprised how well it works even for portraits.
  11. I don't do film anymore, but have for many, MANY years! I wouldn't use monobaths for a variety of reasons, some of which are: 1) I usually would pair a developer with a specific film/purpose 2) I wanted to be in total control of dev. time, dilution, etc.. 3) I wanted to be in control of stop bath and fixing bath type, duration, etc... 4) If I wanted to push or pull a film I couldn't do it without a dedicated developer mixed for that purpose. The "fun" of doing film was being able to have control by choosing chemicals/film combination to achieve different results and effects. If one wants convenience and it comes at the loss of control, IMO it's not worth it.
  12. In a way, it's a bit of a non-question because we always have the phone with us therefore, it's the one camera that is always there. However, if one goes out to shoot a particular subject a good DSRL would be *my* choice. But, they are not the same and not meant to do the same thing, even though they both "take pictures".
  13. If I am not mistaken, the SL2 and T7i share the same pentamirror system. But that's such a personal thing only you can decide what you like best. Otherwise you need to "steup", so to speak, to a pentaprism model.
  14. <p>When you say you "exposed normally" what do you mean exactly?</p>
  15. <p>I had that happen on another model (a Canon G2) and it was the sensor that went bad.<br> If you do in-camera JPG do they also have the same pattern?</p>
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