david_l3

<p>Look for a powered USB Docking station instead. </p>

<blockquote> <p>Chemicals. the last lot was in ilfosol 3. I developed 3 short lengths. The first two were ok, but the 3rd length was clear. I reused the developer assuming it wasn't exhaust from the 3 lengths of short film.</p> </blockquote> <p>This could be part of the problem. Always use fresh developer and throw it away after each use. Developers oxidize during development due to air exposure and agitation, besides the exhaustion from the film. </p>

<p>Been a long time since my last post. Rolleiflex Automat. Brooklyn NY last July. </p><div></div>

<p>There is no reason to use a Macro Close up filter on your 210mm lens and with the long 26 inch bellows length of your camera. Just rack the bellows out to focus close up. You can of course use 58mm filters for color and contrast changes. <br> I also recommend not to use the lens converted to 360mm. It's very difficult to focus and image quality is poor. I tried one time with a 210mm Rodenstock lens and one time was enough to see it was not worth the trouble for a second attempt. </p>

<p>What is it you want with a vintage lens? Vintage can mean many things. Are you looking for excellent optical quality? Some old manual focus lenses can be surprisingly good. Better, get a modern EF or EFS lens for your Canon. If not, then consider a soft focus lens. Or a Lensbaby lens if you want optical softness and out of focus areas. </p>

<p>Paul, you didn't mention processing the scanned files before printing. I use an Epson V700 and it's mandatory to touch up the images and add sharpening with Photoshop. I have scanned lots of 120 film and it's rare a file from the scanner is good enough to print. </p>

<p>Check out the Pentax 645. It handles much like a 35mm SLR, and has a selection of lenses ideal for landscapes. </p>

<p>What Elliott said. Shoot jpeg+NEF. In RAW conversion you can select the amount of noise reduction that you prefer. Compare it to the jpeg and you have another choice. <br> Scout before hand and experiment with increasing ISO values. You might be surprised how well the camera can do in uncharted ISO territories. Also manually set white balance. That can add a little exposure margin with warm light sources. <br> I shoot live music in dim venues, and a test session is invaluable for knowing what to expect and to be fully ready to shoot. </p>

<p>An external SSD, or better, two, would be better than a hard drive with regard to the hard knocks encountered in travel. Hard drives are relatively fragile. It'd be heartbreaking to lose your photos on a hard drive. </p>

<p>I have a Medalist just like yours. Also have the ground glass adapter and cut film back. Ken Ruth at Bald Mountain CLA'd it and told me the lens checked out among the best he'd seen. With that knowledge, it's a keeper. I'm still learning how to re-roll 120 film onto 620 rolls, and the negatives so far are excellent. </p>

<p>I have that lens, which I bought from a videographer who used it quite a bit on Canon DSLRs. He even included the Nikon to Canon EOS adapter in the deal, even though my cameras are Nikons. </p>

<p>55 Year old Appalachian Trail through hiker taking a break in Harpers Ferry, W.Va. Rolleiflex Automat, Tessar lens set to f4. </p><div></div>

<p>I don't plan to use these but I have used film several years out of date with my medium format cameras. </p> <div></div>

<p>I had a Mamiya RB67. It made beautiful photos but it was very large and heavy, a tripod was necessary. The RZ67 is a later electronic version. The RB67 needs no batteries. </p> <p>What are your plans for medium format? 6x7 and 6x9 formats deliver great results but the cameras are not easy to transport. </p> <p>6x6 cameras are easier to carry. I use TLRs, twin lens reflexes. Rolleiflexes and Rolleicords with Tessar, Xenar, and Planar lenses deliver excellent sharpness. 6x6 Bronica SLRs are larger and heavier and they have sharp lenses. </p>

<p>1 or 2 hours is the shutter speed. You set the film camera shutter to the B setting. With a cable release you lock the shutter open for the long duration. With film the exposure relationship with shutter speed and aperture is negated due to reciprocity (aperture/shutter speed relationship) failure during the very long exposures. The film's chemical sensitivity to light is not linear and strange effects happen. Slide film is a very different realm from digital. Experiment and discover for yourself. </p>