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david_john_appleton

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  1. <p><strong>>>>>>>For the life of me, I don't understand why you need an f/1.4 lens on the excellent 5D MkIV. You can get plenty of sweet bokeh at f/2.8, even f/4.0.<<<<<</strong><br> <strong><br /></strong>Yes when you are close to the subject ..evan m43 cameras can do a tight head shot and obliterate the background....different story as you get farther away ..FF 50mm F1.4 at 20 feet you get a DOF of just over 4 feet ..stop down to F4 you get almost 13 feet ..the photos can look very different </p>
  2. <p>If 55mm is wide enough you can look at the canon 55-250 STM lens ...on APS-c its just as sharp as your 70-200L and very cheap (i see them as little as £90GBP S/H on feebay)but you lose a stop of light at the long end<br> ..an alternative to the canon 24-105 is the sigma art 24-105 F4 ..i believe its a little better than the MKI canon and probably a match for the MKii</p>
  3. <p ><a href="/photodb/user?user_id=20594">Karim Ghantous</a> <a href="/member-status-icons"><img title="Subscriber" src="/v3graphics/member-status-icons/sub10plus.gif" alt="" /></a>, Aug 01, 2016; 07:25 a.m.</p> <p>I think you're on the right track to move to a mirrorless system.<br> I don't want to repeat the advice given so far. However, I<strong> can tell you that the Fuji sensors are sharper than a lot of full-frame DSLRs</strong>. I can't say it's my absolute favourite system but I don't know why anyone asides from sports photographers would choose a DSLR. YMMV.<br> ...<br> So some say but i have not see ANY hard evidence of this ..can you show me evidence of this ? ...however if anyone intrested i have irrefutable hard evidence that shows that a X-trans sensor will not resolve the fine detail of a APS-c bayer sensor </p>
  4. <p>the M is ETTL2 the same as other canons so it should work the same as other canons ..i have only used the M with radio triggers so in manual..but i may have read the 90ex can be used as a master..i dont know i have never put batteries in mine ...the 90ex is VERY small <br> the nissin i40 looks like it will be a good flash for the M being so compact <br> <a href="http://www.nissindigital.com/i40.html">http://www.nissindigital.com/i40.html</a></p>
  5. <p>i have the 24stm its a good lens and on my 100D/SL1 it will fit in a jacket pocket which it was fitted permanently <br> until i get the 35mmF2is....if you are thinking of indoor shots you will find the extra light gathering of the F2 not to mention the IS on still subjects useful...35mm is about a standard lens on full frame </p>
  6. <p>I still have 2 canon battery that came from a D30 (not 30D!) that seem fine..must be 15 year old and with that type of battery that the 20D 40D 5Dmki had etc i notice no differences with 3ed party batteries ...however the 3ed party batteries do not last as long in my 100D/SL1 but i would still get them <br /> I did use a 3ed party battery grip on my 5D i not remember what it was but it was one of the better well known makes but sometimes it will read low battery and i would take the batteries out put in again then back to 100%..also i had a feeling that the camera was not held as steady on a tripod with long exposure when the grip was fitted ...i would recommend a second hand genuine grip over a cheap 3ed party one</p>
  7. <p>the main thing NOT to do with Li ion is leave them in a discharged state for long periods of time . the reason is the protection circuit that monitors the cells voltage takes a very small amount of current all the time, and this current can discharge the cell below a critical level which the protection circuit can read as a fault and brick the battery and not let it charge again..<br> Many older li ion Makita cordless power tool owners found this out to their cost as the protection circuit only take power from 1 cell or 2 in the bigger battery and the protection circuit would over discharge the cell and not allow the charger to charge it ..and after 3 attempts of charging it the protection circuit would brick it<br> I have only had this happen to a camera battery 1 time when i misplaced my 100D/SL1 charger and left the camera on stand by for some time flattened the battery but as i had 3 more charged up batteries it was some time before i give the charger up as lost and get another but by that time the 1st battery was bricked </p>
  8. <p>I got many viv flash gun and had many more( i seem to have a viv fetish) ..the 285 is a good gun but i like the 283 as it got i bit more power ..i have come across your problem before with guns that not been used for decades ..you can hear the cap charging but the ready light never comes on ..try some very good really well charged battery's strait out of the charger . and keep pressing the test button .it may take several trys/sets of batts ..i only had 1 that did not come round after a time and it finally came to life when i plunged an external turbo battery pack in, it fired up right away All 285 are trigger voltage save, that link is incorrect when vivitar say the 285 is 350 volts i have never seen a 285 over 12v.. 285HV are less (but i would test it to put your mind at rest)... 283 made in JAPAN are 280v to 350V made in china around 6V.....the quality is amazing some of the 1st 283 are coming up to 45 years old!! a very sturdy gun.. A US company named ARMATAR was converting 283 to bare bulb putting bigger caps in them and uprating them to 300WS (60ws stranded)and the stranded internals taking it..also herd of using RC 7.2V ni-cad racing packs for battery s to speed them up !! <br /> Using them in auto i find the metering as good as E-TTL defiantly better than similar guns...except maybe my Metz 60 CT4's <br /> PS some one buy the name in 2007 and remade them....no that's a lie they made a gun that look just the same as the 285HV but it blows up and is a POS</p>
  9. <p>What people forget is Canon is making a profit Nikon is doing OK Sony and most of the mirror-less lot are in deep do do </p>
  10. <p>I have 2 copies that are mint and when i was doing a manual focus 70-200 ish zoom shootout i try them out and find that although they are 100 mm longer they did not quite match the best zooms at reading my test targets at 200 yards.. a bit disappointing ...so what i am saying may not be worth spending too much time on it.....unless like me you like fixing things</p>
  11. <p>I actually buy my 100D/SL1 because of this lens !! i have a sony nex c3 and wanted a good sharp pancake lens for it to make it fit in a jacket pocket but sony not do one thats any good...i also have the 17-55 f2.8, it was my favorite lens until i went full frame ..it was optically better than the Canon 24-105 F4L that it replaced ...the 17-55 is on semi permanent loan so i have not try it side by side but will say the 24 prime is as easily as sharp wide open but may appear a little more crisp so probably better contrast wide open ..as a bonus it can focus surprisingly close as an example i just try focusing on its 52mm lens cap and the top and bottom of the cap just kiss the edge of the frame ..so highly recommended </p>
  12. <p>I often go to thailand and i always take my camera..i think it depends on shooting style what you take i did take everything one time and found i never used my 80-200f2.8L once, the body was a 5D ...my standard 28-70f2.8 zoom was on most of the time so(aqiv to your 17-55) and my 17-35 f2.8L was an the rest dont think i used my 50 f1.4 much or my 90mm macro(its MF and only f2.5)..last time as we had 2 18month kids with us i take a sony nex-c3 its kit lens 17-55 but a slow f3.5-5.6 that made me miss the f2.8 zoom, a sigma 30mm f2.8 prime that i used a lot. and a manual focus canon FDn 50 f1.4 which i used reguly as well<br /> from your list i would have the 17-55 the 24 f1.4 and the 85 f1.8....i will be in 2 minds about your 70-200 f4 as it is just half the weight of my 80-200f2.8<br /> Next time i will take my canon kit again but this time less lenses and more bodys so 5D my 17-35 f2.8L and 28-70 f2.8 second body will be my 100D/SL1 with its 24mmf2.8stm for use in evening or any time i need very compact cam, i can also use the 100D with the 28-70 for more reach if needed so equiv 45mm to 110ish<br /> i am looking for the 85f1.8 or preferably the 100f2 so id take 1 of them as well ..again i will have 2 lengths with the 2 bodies</p> <p> </p>
  13. <p>a bit of confusion here the only 90mm series 1 will only go to 1:2 with out the extender </p> <ul> <li>Vivitar 90mm f/2.5 Macro (1:1 macro, made by Komine)</li> <li>Vivitar 90mm f/2.8 Macro (1:1 macro, made by Komine)</li> <li>Vivitar Series 1 90mm f/2.5 1:2 Macro, 1:1 achieved with dedicated extender, nicknamed the <em>Bokina</em> (made by Tokina)</li> <li>Vivitar 100mm f/2.8 Macro (made by Kiron)</li> <li> <ul> <li>Vivitar Series 1 105mm f/2.5 macro (1:1 macro, made by Kiron)</li> </ul> </li> </ul>
  14. <p>if you wanted a lens just for the depth of feald scale why don't you keep the the 50 1.8 AF for AF use and look for a manual focus 50..<br> Most apart from canon FD and minolta most will adapt cheaply to EF mount ..big choise for F2/1.8/1.7 for way less than £50 i have a 55mm f1.8 fuji i pay 10£ for with a free film camera that's as sharp or sharper than my ef 50 1.4 has better Bokeh and less fringing and a much better depth of field scale and a focus ring with no slop in it ...to buy a new lens built as nice as many of these old lenses you will have to spend leica money<br> MF wide angel lenses work well with depth of field scale as a 28mm at F8 of the top of my head is in focus from 8 feet to infinity so just walk around snapping away </p> <p>this is a good site for MF lens info http://forum.mflenses.com/manual-focus-lenses-f3.html</p>
  15. <p>this may help you. its a thread in witch the OP has a 7D (7D has the same censer as the 550D) and how he likes the 5D over his 7D read his 1st post and his follow up post approx 15 down http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/42067097 <br> I have a 5Dc and like some, i see a special quality in the 5D photos that i not see in its replacements ..many people say the 5D has "only" 12mp so will not print big, however when viewed on screen at <strong>200%</strong> the 5D looks better than many APS camera at 100% with a higher mp count so Logic dictates that the 5D will print bigger in real world ..i have a 16mp sony nex with a many years newer APS 16mp censer but if i need a poster size print i will pick up the 5D without hesitation <br> just a note.. many people Believe that just become a camera will resolve more detail with its higher mp count the image quality must be better ,this is often not the case </p>
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