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David1961

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  1. I suspect you'll find the account that duplicated the OP's post was most likely created by a bot. Bot's can be programmed to duplicate whole or parts of posts.
  2. Thanks Jack. That is the conclusion I am coming to as well judging by some of the other comments I have read on this website and from other feedback I have received. And it's also the reason I am not pushing for it anymore.
  3. Imho your photography skills will be better off in the long term if you have a good understanding of what aperture, shutter speed and ISO are and how they relate to each other - exposure triangle. For example.......given that a 1 stop change in exposure is a doubling or halving of the amount of light that hits the camera sensor......for a given ISO setting and everything else being equal, if you reduce the aperture by 1 stop (increase the f stop value) then you need to double the shutter speed to maintain the same Exposure Value (EV). I think you might be a little confused here. The larger the f stop value, the smaller the actual aperture of the lens. The smaller the f stop value, the larger the actual aperture of the lens. In any case, regarding Depth Of Field (DOF) - DOF is determined by the aperture, focal length and subject distance from the camera. 1. For a given focal length and subject distance from the camera the smaller the aperture (increasing fstop number) the larger the DOF. 2. For a given aperture and focal length, the greater the subject distance from the camera the larger the DOF. 3. For a given aperture and distance from the camera, the longer the focal length the shorter the DOF.
  4. The reality could be that the information on the web page is the actual reality and that a moderator needs to approve each new account after 5 images have been uploaded. I have deleted the 5 images I uploaded for the reasons I posted earlier. Unfortunately I can't verify what the actual reality is in this situation, but it doesn't matter anymore as I will now not be creating a portfolio here. If the information on the web page is correct then my account won't be approved because I don't have 5 images uploaded as required. Thank you for looking into this.
  5. We'll just have to agree to disagree on the inconsistency. I come from a website development and database administration environment. Inconsistencies, as I see them, are not acceptable on the websites I have built over the years. At the very least they are misleading to new members and/or potential customers. But I have a vested interests in those websites. Here I do not. If the owner(s) of this website are happy with the inconsistencies I described earlier then that is fine. It is up to them. Anyway it's not a big deal, I can still contribute posts and images within them. Not being able to create a portfolio is not a major drawback. People will make up their own minds about what is said on the web page and what you say is reality, as shown above, is actually an inconsistency or not.
  6. It was explained very clearly but from what you say above, it appears there is a huge inconsistency between what you say and reality, at least according to the screenshot below. You can see on the screenshot that it clearly states: So clearly, a moderator needs to approve new accounts so I don't understand why you said - "AFAIK, no Moderator, or those who are designated "Administrator" has the traits that can approve new members. The approval appears to be automatic, but it also appears to have hitches sometimes." The screenshot also shows that approval should occur hopefully within 24 hours. Even allowing a little leeway, I think most new members would think 10 days is way outside of any reasonable leeway.
  7. Well, it's been 10 days since I joined PN (joined 12 Sep 2019) and my account still has a status of "Pending" when I go try to add some photos to my portfolio. Although I can still contribute posts and post images within them. I'm sure the admin's and mod's are very busy looking after a very large web site like this one, but waiting at least 10 days for someone to spend no more than a minute, maximum, to "flick a switch" on my account from Pending to Active does not give me much motivation or incentive to stay here. I have deleted the minimum 5 photos I was asked to upload before my account can be "approved" since there is no point in having them here while my account remains "Pending".
  8. I know this thread is a few months old now, but I thought I would elaborate here a bit as I see many instances of people having colour matching problems between screen and printer. To maximise the colour matching between what you see on your screen and what you output to a print, these are the "must do's". Calibrate/profile your monitor properly. In your image editing application, use one of the "official" colour spaces as your working colour space. I use Adobe RGB. Other options could be sRGB, Pro Photo. All have pros and cons. Either build your own or download from the printer manufacturer's website a printer profile for each printer/ink/paper type combination you will use. You cannot use a printer profile for matte paper to print to glossy paper for example. Prior to printing, use your printer driver application to set the printer settings to match the printer settings that were used to create the printer profile you will be using. Turn off colour management for the printer in the printer driver application. In your print application's dialogue box, select your application to manage colours (NOT the printer), select the printer profile to use in order to match the printer/ink/paper type combo you are using. Select an appropriate Rendering Intent method to handle out of gamut colours - colours in your image that the printer cannot reproduce exactly. I normally use Relative Colormetric. But you need to be aware that it is unreasonable to expect an exact 100% match between what you see on your screen and a print. The 2 main reasons are that: 1. Your monitor is backlit while what you see on your print is from reflected light. The light under which you view a print can significantly affect how you see the print. 2. The printer will generally not be able to reproduce exactly as many colours as a screen can, especially highly saturated colours. This is why you choose a Rendering Intent option to handle out of gamut colours. But if you follow all of the above steps, you should get a very, very close match between what you see on screen and the printer output.
  9. Thank you for the opportunity to play with your photo PuntaColorada. It's an interesting image. I do all my post processing using Photoshop Elements with its built in Adobe Camera Raw. Landscapes and similar are among my favourite subjects. With my post processing I normally aim to output an image that represents what I saw, in terms of colours and brightness, at the time I took the shot. Here I am aiming to produce what I think the scene would have looked like at the time. In summary, this is what I did: 1. Opened the image in ACR 2. Adjusted the exposure down about 1 stop. The histogram confirmed the image is slightly over exposed. 3. Adjusted the various blacks, whites, highlights, clarity, contrast sliders to maximise the tonal range, according to the histogram, without clipping the shadows and highlights. 4. Moved the image to the PSE editor. 5. Used a Levels Adjustment layer to fine tune the tonal adjustments of the individual RGB channels. Here the histogram is again my best friend. 6. Dodged and Burned with a 50% grey filled layer with Overlay blend mode. Painted over the highlights (roof etc) and shadows (windows and right side wall etc) with various shades of grey to recover some more details from the highlights and shadows. 7. Used a Neutral Density Graduated Filter layer (linear black to transparent gradient) on a separate layer with soft light blend mode and layer mask to tone back the brightness in the sky a bit. 8. Sharpened the building a little using the Unsharp mask with a layer mask.
  10. No problem :) I'm sure it will be fixed in the fullness of time.
  11. Thank you for the advice William. I use Photoshop Elements for my post processing. It's just that with PSE it would take me several minutes to create the composite whereas adding a couple of lines of CCS styling in the bbcode to display 2 images side by side would take me about a minute at the most. For web display, using bbcode is normally much quicker to style/format a display than creating composites/montages in an image editing application, at least for me.
  12. Thank you for looking into this William. Much appreciated. When I attempted to use bbcode to post my image in the Landscape forum I didn't actually click the "Submit post" or equivalent button when I saw that the Preview box was displaying the bbcode and not the output from the bbcode. Being new to this forum I didn't want to risk posting actual bbcode and then not being able to delete the post. I just assumed that since the post was displaying incorrectly in the Preview box then it won't display correctly if actually published in the thread. But I have done some more experimenting since my previous post and yes, it appears bbcode on PN is more restrictive than what I have seen on other web sites. In bbcode mode I typed just [img=https://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18558273-orig.jpg] and the image displayed correctly in the Preview box. When I added some CSS styling to the img element, the Preview box then displayed just the bbcode and not the actual image. So it looks like I can't add custom styling to images in posts. And yes, I will be able to cope :) Styling posts is a "nice to have" but not a "must have". Styling images would also allow me to place images side by side very easily for sitautions where I might have "before" and "after" images to compare. Anyway, it's all good. The only outstanding issue I have now is that my account is still pending. The constant reminder notice when I log in and not seeing my screen name under my avatar is becoming a little irritating. Thanks again for looking into this and for your help. David
  13. The bbcode in my previous post produces a post output similar to the screenshot below, but without the View Enlargement link. I use the bbcode on the other forum web site and it works fine. Maybe bbcode on photo.net is much more restrictive in terms of what coding/styling options it allows than on some other sites.
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