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dave_gustafson1

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  1. I use a Unicolor branded (but manufactured by Hauck) darkroom timer from ages ago. It's the analog dial. When printing I use it as a running timer. I don't use it as a countdown timer where I set the minutes and then it makes a buzz when it's at zero. I just having it running the entire printing session and It used to make a wonderful "click" noise every 30 seconds which was a nice reminder of how long I had been in certain chemistry. BUT, now it doesn't make the click anymore and I can't figure out how to get it back. Or if it's just a really old timer that decided to stop making the click! I also received some additional "wheels" that I've never used and am not sure how to. Does anyone have knowledge of this timer or have a copy of the instruction manual? I've tried searching online and can't find anything for this model. Here's some pictures. And thanks for your help!!
  2. Wow, thank you!! I'll work on this today and hope for success!
  3. Hello everyone! I broke the film rewind on my Nikon FE2 and was in the process of replacing it when somehow, and I have no idea how I did it, the rewind shaft with the fork got pushed up past the detent which is supposed to keep it in place below! I'm not sure what laws of physics I was able to bend to get the shaft past the detent. At the moment I am unable to get the shaft below the detent. The detent blocks the shaft (as designed) but my shaft is on the wrong side! Any thoughts from the community? See pic attached. It shows the shaft pushed up past the detent. Thanks for your help!
  4. Thanks guys! I think I'm missing a few pieces. There was no plexiglass disc included and I don't see anyway to attach this to the enlarger. Also no stabilizer. The enlarger chassis came with the Super Dichroic head and nothing else. I'm not sure if it's worth it to piece the rest together or just go with the color head. I'm printing B&W but like printing with a color head to control contrast. Is cold light a superior light source? Is it brighter than the Super Dichroic?
  5. Hi all, I picked up an Omega D2 with dichroic head from a local photo club. In addition to the D2 I was also given a box labeled Zone VI Cold Light. I'm trying to figure out what I have here and what I'm missing to set up and use the Zone VI head. I feel like I'm missing something that will let me attach the cold light to the enlarger. And what's that third plug on top of the cold light? Any help is appreciated.
  6. Thanks everyone! Years ago I had the F3 and loved it. But honestly, I don't remember what kind of prism I had. Back then I just focused and took the picture :) I think I'm leaning toward the FE2 and there are 3 available prisms I could use.
  7. I will be purchasing a Voigtlander 58mm manual focus lens and plan to use it on my Nikon N80. I haven't used manual focus lenses in awhile and with my 51 year old eyes, I'm thinking I'll need as much help as I can get. If I find that I'm having trouble getting good results with the N80, are there other Manual Focus Nikon bodies that are known for their viewfinder and what prisms do people find the most helpful.? I don't wear glasses when photographing. I do use +1.50 reading glasses. Thanks in advance!
  8. <p>Thanks for the responses! Yep, I was assuming the capacitor in that light head is toast. It's the other 3 that might still be salvageable? Each light head has it's own capacitor so just wondered if I should follow the above procedure to reform those capacitors. </p>
  9. <p>Hi all, <br> I recently purchased a Balcar P4 power pack with 4 PSU light heads. This is not the P4 concept. Just the P4. I was testing it with one light head attached and after 20-30 minutes of work the light head made a pop and smoke started to come out of it. I have done some searching online and it looks like I need to reform the capacitor? Here's a link to a post I found on photo.net as well as the relevant section pasted below: <br> http://www.photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00ZPJ2</p> <p>Directions from Leigh in that post:<br> <em>To reform the caps: Turn the pack on for one minute, then turn it off. The next day repeat for two minutes, four minutes the next day, eight minutes the next, etc. In a week you'll be up to leaving it on for an hour. At that point the caps will be reformed if they can be.</em><br> <em> </em><br> <em>If you reach this point successfully, plug the heads in the next day, turn the pack on, and run a series of <a id="itxthook2" href="/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00ZPJ2" rel="nofollow">test<img id="itxthook2icon" src="http://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/icon1.png" alt="" /></a> shots, one per minute for ten minutes, monitoring the output with a flash meter. Note the readings. You should see very uniform output for the entire sequence. If not, there's a problem.</em><br> <em> </em><br> <strong>BUT...the Balcars are different than other power packs in that the capacitors are in the PSU heads.</strong> So I'm assuming that I would have the 3 remaining heads all plugged into the pack? Then go through the exact same procedure? I haven't found anything specific to the Balcar P4 so was hoping someone had some experience with this particular set-up. </p> <p>The previous owner took really good care of his equipment so these look great and I would love to get them working again. Any advice is appreciated.<br> Thanks for all your help!<br> Dave</p>
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