dave_bullivant

<p>Thanks for the responses guys. And Rodeo Joe, I had in fact already read the manual, before, during and after the problems started. It is possible to attach the back to the camera without it being correctly seated. Tip from the top, don't do it. Either way, it seems the shutter is stuck, as I am now getting the Error 1 message. Will send it in for a service.</p>

<p>Hi All.</p> <p>I bought a mamiya 645 yesterday. All was working fine. When I got it home, I couldn't get it to take a shot. It kept flashing no Fb. So i replaced the battery in the film back incase that was it. It wasn't. Also, when I took the back off, the shutter stayed in place, even after I pressed the small metal catch near the base.<br> I then managed to not put the dark slide in properly when I put the film back on, and when I took it out, it won't go back in, as the camera wont fire. Have I just got a dudd here? Any ideas on what to try?<br> Thanks,</p> <p>Dave</p>

<p>I don't understand your response Larry. I understand about colour balance, colour temperature of films, and I'm pretty sure I know what the time is ;) I have followed the guidelines for the scanner, so my question is what I might be doing wrong with the processing. Each time I scan I click reset on all of the colour adjustments that the scanner puts on. Is that what might be causing it?</p>

<p>Hello all,</p> <p>I have been developing c41 at home this year, and until now have just been happy that I am getting a consistent image and correcting any colour balance issues during post production. But now I am looking at the quality of the actual neg and wanted to see if I am doing something wrong.</p> <p>I have attached an image which is a straight scan without any corrections.</p> <p>Is this look normal? Does it always need some correction, or am I doing something totally wrong. Here's an outline of my process using the tetenal chemicals:</p> <p>Preheat film tank (with film in) with hot tap water for 5 min.<br> Dev for 3.15min with 1 min full agitation, then 5 secs every 30.<br> Blix for 4min, agitation as above.<br> Rinse in cold tap water for 3.5 mins, changing the water every 1 min.<br> Stab for 1 min, full agitation.<br> Mineral water with wetting agent for 3 mins (no agitation)<br> Then hung out to dry.<br> Scanned with an epson v700 with epsonscan, using digital ICE but nothing else.</p> <p>Any thoughts would be very much appreciated.</p> <p>Thanks!</p> <p>Dave</p> <div></div>

<p>Hello,</p> <p>Have recently bought an Bronica S 40mm, and have cleaned up the forests of fungus that was growing on it (!). But the front element is really badly scratched on the front, and I wanted to see if anyone knew where (apart from ebay) one could look for a spares/repairs lens that I could nab the front element from.</p> <p>Anyone got one / know of someone that does?</p> <p>Many thanks</p> <p>Dave</p>

<p>The picture hasn't worked it seems. Try this link. </p> <p>https://www.dropbox.com/s/2mex8cv1buwskk5/MF_SQA_BW_HDEV063-2Crop.jpeg</p>

<p><img src="https://www.dropbox.com/s/2mex8cv1buwskk5/MF_SQA_BW_HDEV063-2Crop.jpeg" alt="" />Hello,</p> <p>I have an Epson v700 and have been scanning some of my negs on it with great success. But occasionally, normally with the last photo of a batch, I am getting a very odd scan. It almost looks ok until you zoom in. Not sure how to describe it so have included an example crop of a frame. It is not on the neg, and if I rescan it sometimes it is ok. It doesn't happen in just one position on the scanner, but mainly that last one. When it happens the scan takes AGES! Any ideas?</p> <p>Thanks,<br> Dave</p>

<p>Hi Charles,</p> <p>Thanks for the tip. am confused about not doing less than 5 minutes. If the Dev chart says 4, how can i leave it in for 5. Won't I overexpose the film?</p> <p>Dave</p>

<p>Hi Both,<br> Weirdly I have already responded to Peter, but it must have not sent. But in essence yes, that is the problem. I had misread the instructions on the dev tank, and thought it was a universal amount, but it was just for 35mm. <br> In terms of agitation, constant for the first minute, then 10 seconds every 1 minute thereafter. This one had 4 mins in the tank as per the Massive Dev Chart.</p>

<p>Hi there,<br> I have just bought a new camera and have run a film through to test it, and once I had developed it I noticed some significant marks on the neg. I have had a look around and can't seem to find anything similar at this stage.</p> <p> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3039557/MF_SQA_BW_HDV011.jpg</p> <p>Would love to know anyones thoughts. Here are some details of what I used:<br> Bronica Sq-A<br> Ilford FP4+<br> Ilfosol 3 (9:1) About 1 month old now.<br> Ilfostop<br> Ilford Rapid Fixer</p> <p>Many thanks! <br> Dave</p> <p> </p>