danny_rowton

<p>Excellent David. Thanks so much. </p>

<p>Hi David. Oh I assumed they provide only an all in one service where you have to have their £130 frames as part of the package. Oh, well thats great! I think I only clicked on the link where they were showing the 4 stage service of print, mount, frame etc...</p>

<p>Hi David. This too is really valuable information to me. I was impressed by the print space's site. Alas, for a first ever solo, I wont have yet garnered the requisite momentum to be charging clients the price necessary for me to profit from sales if I used the print space's services. I'm not based in London! (perhaps you aren't either, but as beautiful a job as your contact appear to do, I have to find something more cost effective) <br> However, my overriding feeling upon reading your contribution to this thread is one of sincere gratitude because I have learned something, as I did with the other posts. </p>

<p>Thats great John. Thanks for your advice, which I think I have to take!<br> I am in England and mpix are American but I can start making enquiries over here. Thanks.</p>

Thanks for the responses so far guys. Interesting. I should clarify the prints are being produced for my first solo exhibition. I will be purposefully using anti reflective glass in the frames as, on some images featured, if not most, there is scope for the 'look' to be almost painting-like which is something I have been keen to accomplish succesfully.

<p>I need to print quite a lot of slide film images and wondered which paper to use. I wondered if I I could ask your experiences of this - which paper worked well, and which didn't. All I know (or think I do) is that I dont think something remotely glossy will work. <br> The images will all be printed from digital files, are all shot on expired Fuji Tungsten 64 (well stored. Any that weren't simply wont make the cut) The whole project has been night time exterior urban landscapes so there is a relatively large amount of dark areas involved and this can be a challenge in itself to get right. All images were shot on Medium Format and Im going to be printing various sizes, A2 down to A4 size.<br> I do not have a printer at the moment, so this will have to be taken on by a reputable company (I have one in mind already that I used before with excellent results, but that wasn't from slide film images)<br> Thanks for reading.</p>

<p>Hi<br> Thanks for the responses.<br> OS is Windows 8.<br> Epson are now telling me they dont have stock to replace what I have. The plot thickens...</p>

<p>I am about to have my Epson v600 scanner replaced for a 2nd time (so 3 in total) because of line issues on my film scans.<br> Its the usual green or purple-ish coloured lines that are the cause of frustration. <br> Epson refused an upgrade to v700 after I asked them as I have zero confidence in the v600 (though appreciate the same issue is on some forums for the v700. I just dont know what else to suggest) I advised them I would be happy to contribute the cost difference. <br> I ensure the relevant areas are dust free, but this problem is too frequent to be just dust. I have tried un-installing and reinstalling, and everything I have in my set up is to Epson's satisfaction that it is mutually compatible. <br> The first replacement was a recon, and the 2nd one will be too, which I advised them I wasnt happy about but will have to accept. Then again, the first one was apparently brand new and of course I got the same issue.<br> I just dont know what else to do. I would love to invest in something more reliable but funds are limited, though if I knew something that would definitely give me great scans and no line issue then I would consider anything within reason. This is deeply unsatisfactory and very time consuming.<br> Any constructive ideas (aside from throwing the scanner out the window!) would be greatly appreciated.</p>

<p>I want to buy the 200 / 4 but want to ensure its the 5 lens element one (the last one compatible with the P67) This particular lens also had a 77mm thread. <br> How do I tell that one from the older models? I cant seem to find a serial number document that makes this information clear in the same way for example the old Nikon lenses did. <br> Thanks</p>

Hi Brooks. As stated I do not develop it myself so Im limited in chemical answers. It will be EXACTLY the same chemicals as other films that do not have the problem. I only EVER get this issue with Efke. Once in my possession, all my films are stored in my fridge, not just Efke. All films. Everything is exactly the same. The only clue Ive got is from what others have said about Efke 820IR and that is it didnt have the highest quality control at the factory. I dont know if this was a contributing factor to its closure. Quite possibly.

Hi. This is on the neg so black in hard form (though too small to see with the naked eye usually) or white once scanned. Its not the camera or scanner or anything else for that matter because this only ever happens with Efke. Its very frustrating as aside from this issue, I love this film, but its getting to the point where I might have to sell what I have left (cant return as faulty because its not fresh stock / been discontinued)

<p>Hi<br> I get absolutely loads of tiny white specs on my 35mm format rolls of this film and it takes hours to clean it up. I have just bought a Pentax 67 but have only run two rolls through that and havent tried Efke in 120 yet. I generally use a Hoya infrared screw in filter but sometimes a Cokin IR filter, but either way the same thing happens. Processing is through Xtol but not by me (yet).<br> I admit I haven't tried using a red filter, but thats because I have read that this is not the optimum filtration to bring out the best from the film. I appreciate the film is now discontinued but only last year (2014) so I dont think this issue is related to expiry dates.<br> The aura effects of Efke are excellent, but it has to be said its actual overall 'quality' was somewhat lacking, and its supposed fine grain of 100 is quite frankly a joke when compared to the smooth grain of Rollei's ISO 400 IR film. That said, it can be a pretty close relation to the also discontinued HIE, if only it weren't snowing in every photograph....</p>

<p>By the way, all films were fine. In case anybody reads this in years to come.<br> If youre interested I flew from Gatwick to Inverness and back again. </p>

<table> <tbody> <tr valign="top"> <td> <p>Hi<br />I just got my first 67 and cannot wait to get shooting with it.<br />I read a lot about MF in general before deciding on the 67 being the right step up from 35mm for me. <br />I watched online videos and read the manual several times. Then I 'went live' and started to practice a few operations eg cheating the camera into thinking it has film so I can test the shutter, mirror lock up etc.<br />The issue is I am fairly sure I followed the method of how to turn the exposure counter dial anti clockwise, but now the counter doesnt work at all even with film. <br />I would be very grateful of any tips on how to resolve this as I am now very concerned it is broken. The exposure counter dial (the tiny piece of plastic in the centre of the main counter area that the win on lever is attached to) is moving freely unlike before when there was resistance unless the necessary downward pressure is applied.</p> </td> </tr> </tbody> </table>

Thanks for the pic Matthew. I am officially 'on the lookout' for similar at the right price. I do need a more robust tripod anyway really. Mine is ok and obviously I can add ballast in the middle but it's a stepping stone. I'm also a film user. You can pick up the fisheye's cheaper if like me your prepared to take one that's a bit battle scarred (but optically clean) & without a case. I was looking for months and months and got there in the end.