d_purdy

<p>I have used my newest version several times as a studio portrait lens. If you don't use the in camera meter you need to remember to open the fstop up some as you get to closer focus. As to image quality I have seen the test results that say it is a bit less sharp than others but in my experience it is sharp as a tack.</p>

<p>Nearly impossible?! If that is your experience with it then perhaps it depends on the film type. I never had a problem with creating a bulge and needing to re tape. I only have done it with Acros because my sensor roller senses everything else. Not only not impossible, not even terribly difficult.<br> Dennis</p>

<p>It is a lot like needing to re roll a roll of film that the sensor roller didn't detect and you wind the roll all the way through without an exposure. That has happened a lot to me when using Fuji Acros because the tape is so thin. Rather than throw the roll away I go into a dark room and by hand re roll the film. You have to keep it tight when you are rolling and you have to watch out for the untaped end of the film and be certain to tuck it in so it rolls on correctly. I have done it several times and it really isn't that difficult, more tedious than anything.</p>

<p>Light leaks don't cause dark areas, they cause light areas. You have a lack of density in the dark band on the right. Might be caused by insufficient developer in the tank to cover the film on the reel. Otherwise it is caused by something blocking the light in the camera.</p>

<p>That is interesting to know. Although Harry Fleenor did service my FX I understand now that he won't work on the FX/GX anymore because of the electronics. I will make a note of your place. Be interested to hear what they had to say to you and what you think of the service once it is done.</p>

<p>Seems like a very rare problem. The battery shouldn't be staying on. Must be some sort of short or something keeping it on. You could always take the battery out when you are done shooting for the day.</p>

<p>The lighter stuff in the sky is lens flare and the lighter band across the bottom is double exposure due to the film not advancing far enough.</p>

<p>I need reading glasses to see close. I got a plus 1 diopter for the WLF on my Rolleiflex. I can see the image nice and sharp through that +1 magnifier without my glasses however I need my glasses to view the image normally in the WLF. So with the + diopter in I have to take my glasses off to fine focus because the + of my glasses combined with the + of the diopter makes the image blurry. So I ended up putting the normal stock magnifier back in so I can leave my glasses on for viewing and for focusing. I also discovered that I don't need to put my eye right down on the magnifier to focus. In fact I don't need to raise the camera to my eye at all, I can just pop up the magnifier at waist level and though I can't see whole image I can select to see what I want to focus on. If that makes sense. Mostly I use a prism instead of the WLF because I have the + diopter in it and I don't need to use my reading glasses at all.</p>

<p>Yes I wouldn't be so quick to return to the seller if the camera is in beautiful condition. Especially since I know that Harry Fleenor takes great pride in his work and puts that sticker in there for a reason. </p> <p>Does the crank only turn backward and not forward? Or does it not turn either direction? I can't remember for sure but it might be that you have accidentally set the double exposure button... I used to do that all the time.<br> If after clicking the shutter it starts to work again then that seems likely the problem.</p>

<p>What is your budget. There are a lot of good MF systems out there.. and every type has it's fan base. SLR or TLR are probably better in studio than range finder but you could even get that to work. </p>

<p>If you are using the WLF and can put a strap on the camera perhaps you can use a trick that is recommended for rollei users, hold the camera down so the strap is tight around the back of your neck. Bit like using a monopod.</p>

<p>Everybody takes their favorite hand holdable camera. Mine is a Rolleiflex because I like the lens and I can carry it all day long in a bag and never feel the weight. Fits under the seat in front of me on an airplane too.</p>

<p>Sounds like it is need of a proper cleaning CLA/Overhaul. There are a lot of camera repair people who have no parts and no real knowledge of working on an old Rollei and they put a little lighter fluid here and there and warm the camera up so old glue gets softer and they can make it seem to work fine. Then a short while later all the problems will return. I have had that sort of thing happen to me multiple times with old LF shutters and Rolleis. You need to send it to a proper Rollei repairman like Harry Fleenor or Krikor. It will probably cost a few hundred dollars. Perhaps send it back and better luck next time.</p>

<p>I develop sheet film in trays with the shuffle method. For the 2.5x3.5 sheets I bought a glass butter dish to use as a developer tray. It is perfect size and keeps multiple sheets in a stack.<br> Dennis</p>

<p>Yes if you have a darkroom and a paper cutter. I use a chopper type cutter with tape to mark the sizes.<br> From a 4x5 sheet you first cut a half inch off the long side so the film is 3.5X5. Then you chop it in half the other way so you are left with 2 sheets 2.5X3.5 which will fit in the holders. Or you can start with 5x7 film and and cut them in half both ways so you are left with 4 sheets 2.5x3.5 and no waste.</p> <p>If you buy Arista EDU Ultra film from Freestyle Photo it is pretty cheap. The problem is that you lose the code notch to help identify the emulsion side in the dark... So you need to make a working method that always keeps it one way or the other. I always keep emulsion side up when I am cutting and when in the box so I always know.</p> <p>The other thing to remember is that on that rectangle sheet of film you will only get a 6x6cm image. The way it works is that the image is all the way to one end of the rectangle so that you have the other end to use for handling the film.</p>