d_joao

Exactly. It is about the color inversion, specifically if I have the basic tools in the Luminar software or have to move on to a different software (I´d rather not). I am trying to follow the workflow on Alex Burke´s Youtube video on Manual Inversion of Negative Film (in the digital realm), where he uses a simple fill layer to remove the color cast before the subsequent color correction. I am trying to avoid automated processes in order to understand the process and control a bit more the results.

Hello everyone, I am a Luminar user and have searched thoroughly for resources on how to develop colour negatives from my DSLR scans with Luminar. I am aware of automated/semi-automated solutions outthere but I am trying to stick to the software I know and own, maintaining a degree of control on color correction and at the same time trying to create my own presets to speed up the process. Is anyone processing their negatives with Luminar or do I really have to switch to PS/Lightroom? Luminar´s manual is pretty limited on this topic and I have not been able to figure out how to, for example, create a fill layer with the frame border in order to reduce the color cast. Thankful for tips.

Hello everyone, apologies in advance in case this is the wrong section for my question... Can anyone recommend a film lab in KL? I am looking to having 35mm film developed and scanned during my one-month stay there. Thank you for any input!

Yes,it clearly does, but it sits slightly loose so that the contacts in the front are not fully made.

<p>Hello all, I just got an F5 from ebay a few days ago, rated excellent by a top-rated seller, the camera seems to be in a good aesthetic and functional condition, however:<br> - the DP30 viewfinder sits a bit loose on the camera and there is a bad contact which causes the lcd display to light up only when the viewfinder is pressed forward against the contacts.<br> Has anyone come across this problem and/or does anyone suggest any solution before I try to get it repaired? <br> Simply by looking at the locking mechanism I cannot tell what parts are causing the viewfinder to sit loose on the rails, everthing looks actually pristine, no signs of any physicall wear or abuse, no loose screws, no weird asymetries. <br> Thankful for any ideas or experiences.</p>

<p>Thank you everyone for your contributions.<br> It is compatible, I was just trying to focus too close to the screen. Indeed, it does require a big distance but as I have other projectors for short range I have decided to keep the Elmaron, a big projection outside is a show worth trying one day and the image quality as I have finally seen it yesterday is miles away from my two other projectors (a cheap Leitz from the 70´s with a heavily scarred lens and a P150 from 99), really stunning image.<br> Also I am not sure about what model the Colorplan is, so playing it safe I have a great lens anyway.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Thanks Knut, can you confirm the lens is definitely incompatible and do you know where and how easy it might be to get such an adapter?</p>

<p>Hello everyone,<br> I have bought a second-hand P2000 that came with an Elmaron P2 3,4 200mm all-black lens (Made in Germany). I have now tested it at home and the image is completely out of focus. I have read in another post that these lenses require a sleeve or an adapter so that they can properly sit in a P2000. I have two questions:<br> 1. the owner has a choice of either the Elmaron or a Colorplan P2 90mm and he has offered to exchange the Elmaron for the Colorplan. Besides the focal length is there a SIGNIFICANT image quality difference between both? I assume I would have the compatibility problem with both.<br> <br />2. where can I find this sleeve/adapter? I am based in Austria.<br> <br />Thank you for your help<br> Cheers,<br> Joao</p>