craig

Same lens and settings as above.

Canon EOS R5, FD 80-200mm f/4L @ 200mm, f/5.6, 1/1000 sec, ISO (why do I still keep wanting to say ASA?) 200. Novoflex FD-RF adapter.

<p>I saw a lens like this in Tokyo back in the mid-1980s, but it was a display model. Cool find.</p>

<p>Probably time to buy some fresh rolls. If the exp. was 2001, then the film is probably 17 or 18 years old. </p>

<p>Or, you can roll your own film and get about 45 shots :)</p>

<p>The A-1 was my first "REAL" camera, and I purchased it in 1985. I still use it as my primary camera, even though I own several FD varients. I like my T90 but I don't love it. The A-1 just feels like a solid tool, like grandpa's wrench. The T90 has these flimsy doors that just don't cut it for me. </p> <p>As a first camera, I am absolutely for getting a Canon A-1. Just get one that's well-sorted and has recently been CLA'ed. You'll spend an extra few bucks in the beginning, but you'll save a lot over taking it to a repair place (if you can find one). The ebay squeek kit is a joke; I wouldn't even consider going that route. What I love about the A-1 is that for as many features as it has, it can be a minimalist camera as well. Full manual is perfect, and the control wheels are as intuitive as anything you'd find on a modern EOS. </p> <p>I take my A-1 everywere and am amazed at how many people come out of the woodwork to talk about the good old days when cameras like these were the norm. I'm not a big fan of plasticky cameras. I got rid of my EF gear save for the EOS5 (A2E international) and a couple basic lenses. I never shoot digital and pretty much only shoot with my FD gear now. I've always felt that people who learned on film are better photographers because they don't get the instant gratification of seeing thier photo on a tiny screen, and they have to work to compose their shots and think about exposure and of course, you can't just fix it in photoshop. You have to work for your shots because film isn't cheap.</p>

<p>Focus on the eyes, compose using the rule of thirds, use a grey card to get the exposure figured out and you'll never go wrong. Don't always trust a zoom lens to keep focus if you're zooming in to focus on the eyes and zooming out to compose. A good 135mm prime lens set to f4.0 is my favorite setup. Your preferences may vary.</p>

<p>You created excessive resistance on the on/off switch on your winder when you blocked the rewind wheel and overloaded the circuit. You probably melted the solder joint at the switch. It's a common issue, especially on older electronics. If you own a decent set of micro tools (I'm talking Wiha, not Craftsman) and own a decent solder station (check out the Aoyue 9378; that's my favorite bargain gun), then you can re-melt the solder joints and should get plenty more life out of your winder. You might also want to check any resisters with a multimeter and apply a tiny bit of dielectric grease (i.e., what you can fit on the tip of a toothppick) to the motor to keep the moving parts running well.</p> <p>Alternately, get a new winder (lol). They're pretty cheap.</p>