colin_mattson1

<p>One other thought: If the front feed works, the rear single-sheet feeder <em>should</em> also work as it's almost entirely the same portion of the feed mechanism. It's not as convenient as dumping a stack of sheets into the auto feeder, but it does support most paper types.</p> <p>If you haven't tried it already and you have the feed guide attachment, give it a shot.</p>

<p>Still a good strobe if the price is right. </p>

<blockquote> <p>At present, although I can feed normal thickness of paper from the front the quality is poor. Why is this? Should the paper be thicker?</p> </blockquote> <p>Yes, the paper should be much thicker. The front feed is <em>only</em> for exceptionally thick media (1.0mm to 1.3mm) — the printhead is raised too high for standard media, and will give the "airbrush" effect you're likely seeing. If this is the only way you can get the printer to feed, it is possible to attach media to a carrier sheet to achieve the required thickness, but it's not ideal and the front feed limits the paper options available to you in the driver interface.</p> <p>For the feed issues, you might try carefully cleaning the grey rubber pickup roller in the auto sheet feeder using warm, soapy water. (e.g. Dip a clean lint-free rag into some warm soapy water and wring it out quite well.) It can become coated with dust and other detritus and lose its grippiness.</p> <p>At any rate, the printer can certainly be repaired, but it may not make economic sense (a) if the repair center isn't nearby, and (b) since the K3 inkset is now quite old and being produced in smaller quantities and at higher prices.</p>

<p>Correct—Finder's "Get Info" shows very limited EXIF data, but Preview's (the default program to actually view images) "Get Info" will show your copyright info. </p>

<p>Also, TTL mode or manual mode? Manual should be dead-on consistent barring equipment failure—TTL can bounce all over the place depending on what the camera decides the correct exposure is at any given moment. </p>

<p>Yeah, if you're using the cordless flash mode, it's most likely a timing problem. The meter will only look for a flash for so long before it times out—if you and your model aren't in good sync, you may be running into this. Naturally occurring ambient flashes can also interfere in cordless mode, since all the meter knows is "at some point before I time out, something is supposed to flash at me."</p> <p>Try hanging a trigger (Tx mode — the meter's popping the strobe) off the meter's PC port and set it to corded flash mode. If it works as expected then, you've got your problem and your solution nailed down.</p>

<p>Up in the Crop toolbar, there's an icon that looks like a grid.</p> <p>Click it to open a flyout menu to choose the grid format you like—you're on Grid now, and you want to go back to Rule of Thirds.</p>

<p>Camera > Auto Select New Capture.</p> <p>If Pause is checked, uncheck it and you're back to the races.</p> <p>If Never is checked, pick one of the other two options (Immediately will change images as soon as possible, When Ready will change images only when the image has finished rendering).</p>

<p>Scans, like raw files, need sharpening. Period. And that's left as an exercise for the scanner operator, as the correct means and amount of sharpening are going to vary based on scanner, settings, film stock, personal preference... Welcome to the jungle. Give yourself some time to nail down your process. ;)</p> <p>And, lest it go unremembered, <em>Lightroom is automatically sharpening your D600 files</em>. Lightroom, on the other hand, <em>does not </em>automatically sharpen non-raw images. So, yes, your D600 raws are naturally going to be sharper—because they've been sharpened. (And also because there are some frequently-tangible differences in the way Lightroom renders raw and raster images at reduced viewing sizes.)</p>

<p>X-Rite also provides <a href="https://www.xrite.com/documents/literature/en/N7_Memo_2013_en.pdf">updated N7 formulas for Behr paint</a> (the 1500A base is very much retired). </p>

<p>The iCloud app is for iCloud Drive; assuming you shot these photos using the iPhone, they'd be in the Photos app on both your phone and your Mac, <em>not</em> in iCloud Drive.</p> <p>That being said, let's take a time out here and discuss something very important: If you're using iCloud Photo Library, which it sounds like you may be, you have <strong>one universal photo library</strong>. There is no "on my phone" and "on my Mac", only "in my library". That library lives in iCloud, and the Photos app on either device is only an interface to it, not a copy of it. If you delete it from your phone, it will be deleted everywhere. (This is why the "Optimize iPhone Storage" option is available when using iCloud Photo Library—it'll swap out your full-size photos for much, much smaller phone-specific versions as your other apps need more space.)</p> <p>If you're not using iCloud Photo Library on your phone (i.e. you pulled them in from your Photo Stream instead), you can safely delete the images from your phone as long as you can see them on your Mac.</p> <p>You can double-check whether your iPhone's using iCloud Photo Library from the Settings app; scroll down to the "Photos" item and tap on that.</p>

<p>To quote Wikipedia:</p> <blockquote> <p>Using PNG instead of a high-quality JPEG for [photographic] images would result in a large increase in filesize with negligible gain in quality.</p> </blockquote> <p>The image quality of a photo in PNG is "good," but so is a much, much, much smaller JPEG file. Support is also still considerably broader for JPEG. <br /> <br /> If you're preparing for the web, use JPEG and make everyone happy. If you're preparing for print at a typical lab, use JPEG and make everyone happy. If you're just tossing these on your own hard drive, do whatever makes you happy, but don't expect a tangible benefit (because, unless you're setting your JPEG quality far too low, there isn't one).</p>

<p>If you're buying these from Amazon, bear in mind that they may in fact not <strong>be</strong> Lexar cards. (Same applies to SanDisk cards and nearly everything else Amazon sells, for that matter.) Amazon started pooling their warehouse inventory a couple years ago. No matter who's selling it or where it came from, it all goes into the same pick bin.</p> <p>One company ships in a bunch of counterfeits? Now every seller on Amazon, to include Amazon itself, is selling them.</p>

<p>The Pro-100 is a different beast. It uses a completely different inkset (ChromaLife 100<strong>+</strong> — that little plus sign is important), and a newer, much better, completely different printing engine. Its B&Ws, yes, look fantastic.</p>

<p>The entire PIXMA Pro series ships with starter cartridges. It stinks, but future (full capacity) cartridges will last you longer.</p>