clarke_k

<p>Okay!<br /><br />So this is a shot from the latest batch. <br />(attached Image)<br /> /><br />(Scanned Gelatin Silver Print)<br /><br />The negative was originally a bit foggy and it was hard to get the highlights on the left more defined but I tried.<br /><br />Thanks for resolving my questions and all the info again. <br /><br />Regards Clarke </p>

<p>Okay Hello <br /><br />So tonight I developed some film.<br> Rodinal 1:100 (cause I don't want to waste it)<br> <br /><br />Tri x @ Winogrand Speed (1250) - Came out perfect <br />Expired color slide film- Ha was expecting nothing out of this. <br />Hp5+ @ 400- Came out perfect<br /><br />So this leads me to believe it's possibly a problem with the neopan? <br />I mean sorry for dragging out this thread, and all of you have provided me with more than enough information on why my film could possibly be foggy.<br /><br />I guess I will just have to see what happens when I shoot off the rest of the neopan 400 I have. <br /><br />I will shoot a roll @ 400 and a roll @800/@1600<br /><br />The only thing It might be is that I get my film shipped to me from NYC.<br />I live in Canada MAYBE possibly the x-ray machines messed my film up when it was shipped here?<br /><br />Well glad that they came out this time. <br /><br />Thanks a ton guys <br /><br />you rock <br /><br />(also winogrand is the best so to who ever said they appreciated my references you also are the best) <br /><br /><br /></p>

<p>Oh that photograph that I uploaded in my previous response is the film after I RE-Fixed. </p>

<p>Hello Peers, <br /><br />Clarke here again. <br /><br />SO! <br /><br />I re-fixed some negatives and....... no luck. <br />Recovered nothing (now I have 30 some odd negative strips of 5 hanging in my darkroom)<br />I think I should be able to salvage them (at least some are printable, even though completely grey and foggy) I'm sure if I throw a +5 filter I can pass off the over contrasted, grey flat negative as "artistic".<br> <br /><br />But I'm grateful for the help and tips. <br />So thank you guys now I know the trick for the clearing time. Also never knew about the Tmax and Delta films. I don't shoot Tmax I actually hate the look of it. But from time to time I shoot delta 3200 at 3200,6400 or 12500. <br> <br />I've never been very good at organizing (I sniff my fixer to see if it smells like salt and vinegar chips and if it does then well... I continue to use it)<br /><br />Hahaha well it worked for a while now I guess I'm facing the consequences of poor lab maintenance and organizational skills. <br /><br />One last question, I assume it has nothing to do with the negative problems but I may as well ask anyways. I push all my film, I never ever shoot my film at box speed. I guess I Just like the look of most films pushed. SO neopan 400 I usually shoot at 800 or 1600. Tri x I shoot Winogrand speed ( 1250 ) haha BUT will me pushing my films be something that may have contributed to this problem? <br /><br />Looking over the same negatives that I developed in this particular batch (I just throw eight rolls of 100-800 iso films into the Paterson Multi Reel 8 tank and develop for about an hour with Rodinal 1:100) <br />The "foggy" negatives were the Neopan NOT the Orwo n74.. (which was shot at 400 by my brother not me) Makes me wonder, why the Neopan came out foggy and the Orwo N74 clear? <br /><br /><br /><br />Wow I as I type this out I sound more and more unorganized and pathetic ha! <br />( I will stop sniffing my fixer now )<br />Okay well in closing thanks for all of your help and advice. <br /><br />Regards <br /><br />Clarke <br /><br /> </p><div></div>

<p>Ha 20+ for black and white 35mm <br /><br />I have 30+ 120mm c41 and e6<br />and still some 4x5 slide from two summers ago i've never processed. <br /><br />I've given up on color, not my thing. Shot a lot of it in the past.<br /><br />But I can't/won't print color (yet)<br />So I'm trying to focus just on black and white (and have been for the past year)</p>

<p>Nice thanks for all the tips guys. <br /><br />I specifically created an account to ask this question. Ha!<br /><br />I will try and dev some stuff tonight (as I shoot like winogrand and have 20+ rolls to develop at any given time) <br /><br /><br /></p>

<p>Oh okay <br />Thanks <br /><br />Yeah I kind of got in the habit of pre-soaking from when I used to use the Jobo Press Kits <br />when developing c41 films. <br /><br />I never thought it would hurt, I don't ALWAYS do it. <br />But thanks for the tip on the pre-soaking</p>

<p>Hmmmm Okay Thanks Larry. <br /><br />Do you think my fixer is contaminated due to not using stop bath?<br /><br />I also re-use the fixer from when I'm printing and quite possibly ( actually for certain )<br />There is cross contamination from my developer to my fixer?<br /><br /><br />Ha I'm actually embarrassed i'm posting this. <br />I should probably get a middle tray in between my developer and fix for a "stop"<br /><br />Also if I re-fix won't the photos already be toast because they were exposed to light after the first initial "fix"?<br /><br />I've tried re-fixing them in the past but I think I was too late?<br /><br />Thanks Again<br /><br />Regards <br /><br />Clarke </p>

<p>Hello, <br /><br />I am having problems with my film being Grey/Muddy between frames and sprocket holes. <br /><br />I've been developing film for over 5 years and this is the first time I've encountered this problem.<br />I know it's not the film because I've developed Tri x/ Neopan 400 and Orwo n74 (all having the same problems) <br /><br />SO It has to be a problem with HOW i'm doing it? (unsure though because I have never had problems with this before)<br /><br />I will take you step by step with what I do when I develop film?<br /><br />1. Pre soak 10mins<br /><br />2. Develop in Rodinal 1:100 with agitation for the first minute and then at the 30 minute mark for 15 seconds.<br /><br />( I do not use stop bath and never have so I don't know if this would recently throw off my results?)<br> 3. Fix for 5-10 minutes (again always have fixed for this long as I used to be paranoid about underfixing my film) <br /><br />4. Remove from fixer and rinse with photo flo diluted 2drops for 1L also mix in half a cap of 99% rubbing alcohol (now that's something recently i've started to do because I've had some bad stains on my film as of late.)<br /><br />5. Rinse under running coldish tap water for 10-30 minutes <br /><br />6. Squeegee, Dry and yup that's it?<br /><br /><br />Please help!<br />I'm getting annoyed and it's not a huge deal as I print in the darkroom and don't scan anything <br />but I have a feeling it's effecting my photo quality making my negatives less contrasty or dull etc. <br /><br />I dunno <br /><br />Thanks <br /><br />clarke <br> <br /><br /></p><div></div>