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cj8281

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  1. You can use the program, Meta35, to turn on the data mode of the Nikon F100. The Nikon F100 will record Film ISO, Film Number, Frame Number, Shutter Speed, Aperture, Focal Length, Flash sync mode, Lens Focal Length Range, Lens Aperture Range, EV Difference, EV Compensation, Flash EV Compensation, Metering mode, Exposure mode. With the detailed mode enabled it will record a maximum of 30 rolls. If you just want to record Film ISO, Film Number, Frame Number, Shutter Speed, Aperture, Focal Length and Flash sync mode then the F100 can record up to 70 rolls. Meta35 for Nikon works with the F6, F5, F100, F90, N90, F90x and the N90s.
  2. <p>Another interesting site for old negative is this: <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20060628055746/members.aol.com/Chuck02178/film.htm">http://web.archive.org/web/20060628055746/members.aol.com/Chuck02178/film.htm</a><br> As for another alternative negative holder, Legos. My first 4x5 negative holder for scanning was made from Legos. Just remember to leave a small space along to top edge for calibration. </p>
  3. <p><a href="http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/">http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/</a><br> might give you a bit of insight to HC110.</p>
  4. <p>Generally you would make a new post and ask your question. With 2 windows, you stop each number in each window. The number 1 in the window that is closest to the supply spool, then wind it til it is in the next window. You should get 16 4x3 images. <br> You might look and see if the camera has a removable mask installed. Open the back, is the area pretty big with only a small section that has a rectangular hole in it? If so, can you feel inside and does it feel bigger on the other side? If this is the case, it might be a mask installed. </p>
  5. <p>IIRC it was 1982 when I bought my first camera, a Pentax K1000. Still have it, still shoot it. I took a class in High School and learned to develop film and print pictures, black and white that is. Didn't do much other than the standard shoot and take in the film to get processed until about 2004 or so when I began finding darkroom stuff at thrift stores. I bought my first enlarger, a Beseler PrintMaker 35 and a set of Nikor tanks. Have since sold the enlarger and upgraded to an Omega DII. Still use the Nikor tanks. </p>
  6. <p>I would not put any fixer down the drain. Especially if you use it til it is exhausted. The silver in it will kill the bacteria that they use for processing. It should be properly disposed of. I take mine to a local film processor and they put it through their recovery processor.</p> <p>As far as the developer, do you drink bottled water? Usually you can find a store brand of reverse osmosis drinking water for cheap. That is what I use when I question the viability of the local tap water.</p>
  7. <p>If you want cheap Kodak Tri-X, check out Freestyle's Arista Premium 400, 24 exposure roll for $2.69 and it is Tri-X. Get it before it is all gone. I just ordered another 20 rolls myself.</p>
  8. <p><a href="http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f4016/f4016.pdf">http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f4016/f4016.pdf</a><br> <a href="http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/databanks/filmDatabankIndex.jhtml?id=0.1.14.36.7&lc=en">Kodak Technical Publications, here</a>. Pick Black and White films and select the film you wish to read up on. </p> <p>Kodak changed the name when they redid the emulsion to help differentiate between the two. One thing that I wished Kodak had done was left the images of the old label in the earlier publications so as to make it easier to see the difference. With Tmax 400, there are 3 different variations of it.<br> The film that you linked to is the newer film which has a developing time of 6½ minutes.<br> The older Tmax 100 had the developing time of 9 minutes as you can see in <a href="http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f32/f32.pdf">Kodak's Technical Pub F32</a>, pg 5.</p>
  9. <p>A few questions, are you using Tmax developer 1 shot or do you have an amount that you have mixed up and are reusing it? Was the bottle just purchased? What is the expiration date on the bottle? What is the exact name on the bottle?</p>
  10. <p>Pentax K1000, bought it new when I was a Freshman in High School in 1982. Still have it, still shoot it. It is still my go to camera.</p>
  11. <p>As far as disassembling a Minolta lens, you go in through the front, not the rear. Is actually a pretty simple design. <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/50026670@N05/sets/72157644562651483/">https://www.flickr.com/photos/50026670@N05/sets/72157644562651483/</a><br> This was my 55mm that was on my SRT 101. </p>
  12. <p>Until the 80's, Kodak film was usually offered in 12, 20 and 36 exposures in 35mm format with 12 exposures being the least common. Then they increased the 20 exposure rolls to 24.</p> <p>On Tmax films, remember Kodak changed the film in 2002, and then changed the Tmax 400 again in 2007. You need to use the old chart for this for the starting times. <a href="http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f32/f32.pdf">Kodak Tech Pub F32</a> In Kodak's infinite wisdom, they removed the images of the film canisters from their pdfs so you can no longer compare what you have to the pdf. The latest pdf version has the currently produced Tmax films and the new one is shown as the New 400 but they don't give you a look at the previous versions of Tmax except the 400 that was produced from March of 2002 to September of 2007. To find what the previous version of Tmax looks like you will need to find a copy of F4016 that was made before 9/2007. </p>
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