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ciaran_mcmenemy

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ciaran_mcmenemy last won the day on October 21 2015

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  1. Thank you so much! It fixed it. By the way, what does 'PREVIEW PIC. EFFECT.' do?
  2. Hi! My friend was playing with my camera a little, and now it's set a little differently and I can't work out how to restore it to how it was. It's acting like it's in A mode all the time. When the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO are set manually, the camera still reacts differently to the light. Which it shouldn't, because it's set to be manual. By this I mean, I point it at the ground, the screen brightens, and when I point it at the sky, it darkens. Then when I take the picture, the picture is made according to the manual settings, not what I saw on the screen. It's very troublesome, how can I fix it? The way I am supposed to use it is, set the aperture to whatever, then as I spin the speed dial, the light level goes up and down. That's it ~thanks!
  3. <p>hey, thanks for the guidelines; really helpful. I'm doing more reversals today and used a slightly weaker bleach. After clearing I exposed it to light, and I noticed that the emulsion is actually fine. After second development it feels slippery and hey presto it wipes off. I'm suspicious of the developer... hmmm...</p>
  4. <p>I guess it's a little thin - tell you what, Lucky SHD (100) is <em>incredibly</em> thin. It's like comparing paper to cardboard. Wow.</p>
  5. <p>great idea, so how long extra would you do it for? I'm guessing you examined the film until it had the right colour. <br> Is it something to do with the pH?</p>
  6. <p>Like I have a picture and I can see the ground in detail but also clouds in the sky. Since I can see it, why can't I print it? (I'm a real amateur at this sort of stuff). I'm understanding that neg films have high d.r. (for mistakes and exposure correction after?) but printing redcues the d.r.<br> oh, by double-negative, I meant slide film is actually negative too, you are basically getting a negative, bleaching it/re-exposing it, developing it again. I wonder if there are any other elements apart from silver that could be used in an emulsion?</p>
  7. <p>I'm confused since when you scan a negative, if it has high d.r. then you would see all the tones, and it doesn't look bad (not to me, anyway)</p>
  8. <p>Peter, that helps so much. I should have realised that acid would do that!! Thanks for the advice Glen - I'm surprised that 25'C is considered hot since it's quite a routine temperature I use, being only a few degrees higher..</p>
  9. <p>hi! I developed a 120 reversal previously<br /> details: Shanghai GP3 (100 used as 400). I used a temperature of 25'C for 11min initial dev with FD10 1+9. Agitation as normal. Washed, then a H2SO4 and KMnO4 cool purple bleach for 5 min, again at the same temperature. Washed, then cleared with sodium meta. It was a pinky colour prior to this I think, it turned banana yellow afterwards. Washed again - meta smells quite noxious, if that's te word. After redevelopment with a fresh solution of FD10 in the same way as for first development (a bit longer just in case) I hung the film up after more washing. I didn't fix it.<br /> I noticed that the emulsion was very soft and wiped off easily. I poured cold tap water on it but it didn't help it - I had to wait for it to dry. Why?<br /><br />Not just for GP3, I noticed it with another film too - it was 35mm Foma or Pan 400<br /> ----<br /> the film is some 'problem' GP3 from 86daigou, i.e. shipped from China. {I bought a few boxes on eBay I while back, and they proved to be great. Easy to push, although development could get lengthy. } As for this one, development yielded some sort of sticky residue which had to be cleaned (must be the weird backing paper) and I saw frame numbers on the film. The frame numbers are quite interesting in their own right (just not for serious photos) because it makes you, hm, aware that it's a photograph - it's something that happened in real life, but it itself is not quite real.<strong>.</strong> It's the same feel as watching an 8mm film with the sprockets showing, I guess?</p>
  10. <p>I developed Ilford Pan 400 using FD10 (based on 11min at 20'C) and noticed on the scans that the skies are blown, or mostly vague. It's negative film so I'm surprised that this happened (and there is nothing wrong with my technique). Does development time influence contrast, darkness/brightness, or both? I thought it would only influence dark/bright but now I'm not so sure. Oh, agitation was initial 30 sec then three every 30 sec.<br /><br />Another question, what are the physical differences between negative and positive film? I'm wondering this especially since positives are actually made by processing double-negatives. I know E6 film lacks a colour mask - anything else different?<br> Lastly, why does slide film have much higher contrast (and thus less d.r./latitude)? Wouldn't higher d.r. be better since it is more similar to how we perceive what we see? (imagine looking at the sky with your eyes and seeing that it is 'blown') </p>
  11. <p>if it was a shutter problem (I think it is called sticky shutter or something specific) then the black would start on the side, but here we see some image, the black, then the rest of the image. <br> what did you use to develop it? if it's a rangefinder then the finger idea has some relevance. not that you did it, probably... how about the frame markings, are they there? if the frame borders are clear (the blackness doesn't creep out) then it happened in camera. else, it happened when the roll was out.</p>
  12. <p>EC means 'exposure compensation'. Just a dial that adjusts the time (usually between +/- 2 stops) for auto use. I much prefer AE lock though.<br> Does the XT1 have an AE lock?<br> It's a shame that it's an electronic viewfinder - it will kill the batteries - but I think it's the closest I can get. I'd like the picture to be 'real' in the 'finder, but oh well can't have it all/././</p>
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