chuck_foreman1

It did flash by quite quickly... the video was very well done. Looks like it was great time for all

How Cool RickN... I suppose a lot of people were interested in your living history Signal Corps!!

Ahh..still good looking after all these years 😉 Does the camera still work?

@JohnS Thanks for that input. I don't remember when I removed it the first time, if that mark was there. It did hit the floor once. When I cleaned the crud (2nd time) I noticed this and photographed it thinking too "separation" but later noting the appearance ..it dawned on me this could be a due to a drop. Either way, If it is "separation"; it is at the edge and would likely only affect full aperture exposures. Right? IIRC a few shots on the roll.. and this one of the Tulips are wide open All of these IIRC were at full aperture. the middle one... maybe not

Wow...a method to the madness.. I just quess.. and if I have another camera with me, I will use it to get a distance reading. I also hope for a bit of hyper focal forgiveness.

Hi Gary, Thanks for the link to your earlier post .. I'd forgotten how you resolved. "Flocking" problems like this are irritating 🙂 From Gary Green: My solution was to insert a baffle into the light chamber to attempt to prevent or minimize the light striking this flat portion of the light chamber perimeter at a shallow angle. My choice of baffle was a thin layer of black felt material (non shedding) that I adhered to the light chamber walls just to the inside edge of the flat perimeter close enough to cast a shadow on the flat perimeter but not close enough to the film plane to fuzz up the edges. So far so good; my early results have been promising. My first roll of film since installing the baffle had no frames with the “light leak” issue which is significant because I don’t believe any previous rolls shot through this camera didn’t have at least one frame affected. With this issue hopefully fixed, the honeymoon is back on. I apparently wasn'T as chic in keeping it out of the film plane. I will of course not have to test my latest attempt... but not close enough to the film plane to fuzz up the edges." Seems I "flocked" that up 🙂 If I get back to my Argus 40, I will do this too. My attempt to replace the hinged back..was not very fruitful. Some "self inflicted" problems...you have to live with! Thanks for the reply!!

We would need to see a picture of the interface (bottom of lens) to have a chance at realizing what "mount" or compatibility to products this has. While Samigon is a familiar name, the "after market" lens was hugeand it may well be that they (Samigon) as a lens manufacturer made lenses in many different mounts

Wow Luis color!"" . this is very good. Love it

Greetings CMC fans Did finally develop some film. Weather has been poor. I am also hindered by an orthopedic Boot I am wearing for the next 6 seeks (now 4) . I had a broken right foot for Xma and a broken left foot for Easter. There was no trauma..these turned out to be stress fractures.. I digress. I made a separate post for the ongoing saga with the low-contrast, flare from the Yashica Mat. Don't worry I saved some pics for here 😉I forgot to say in the last post that the working light meter gave up on the last exposure on the roll. Not a great meter, but a good selling point. Gggrrr I acquired a Kodak 35 RF just before Xmas. I believe I posted a few pics from the first roll, which I consequently tore the film mid-roll. I noted that the first (and only) five frames were orderly spaced etc . Meanwhile I was playing with it and the shutter was very intermittent, fired only sporadically.. It took a long time to get behind this, but in Edison fashion (1000,000 attempts) I have figured it out. The release on this camera is awkward and badly placed. As I was fumbling to find this in my first outing, it likely helped. I've determined that once cocked, there is a millimeter of spring return that almost never works completely. The user needs to nudge the release up a bit. It will make a barely audible "tick". Once you start doing this, the shutter fires 100%. I recently took possession of a Kodak Tourist II, which had some light leaks if we all remember well. Reading around referred me to "plastic Dip" I suppose it is much like "liquid Electric Tape" but this could be thinned with Naphtha. That appealed to me and I bought a small can . I liked how easily it was to work with ..and besides the Tourist II, I had a Zeiss Ikon 520/2 Ikomat (US version of the Ikonta) I received this as a gift from a CMC contributor: Gabor Szabo. This had quite a few holes, so I tackled these bellows and while I was very pleased with the process, I fear now either new ones opened up, I did a lousy job, or Plasti-Diüp is not good for bellows patching. I did get some better images..but not the contrast I wanted for these 6x9 negatives The infamous Yashica Mat 124 You've certainly have seen this statue from me before... I need new hunting grounds 😉 This is what I like about Ground Glass focusing This is in pretty good shaper given its age. shutter assembly is not lagging etc on slow speeds. Quite snappy...when it fires!! Close enough to try the RF..seems to work ok.. Interesting half frame image for the finder The Anastar lens is nice for its age! A building at Belsenplatz The Three-Slice House . This was a Thyssen/Krupp building but I think it has changed hands.. flatness issues .. note bottom right Sure looks like light leaks to me... new ones.. or poorly patched old one? May be flare... IIRC I was trying to use the structure to my left to shield the directional light

The order of the pictures is screwed up... I guess I did it wrong!?!? the last two photos do not belong...in fact I now know what I f--...umm did. I added some photos and didn't "insert them" as upon reflection while composing felt these last two pics were ..not the best for the purpose

Hi All, If you've been following my (mis) adventures in the weekly weekend contribution, then you are aware of the "baffling" problem with my Yashica Mat 124. I bought this camera in the US circa 1984 from one of my brother's friend's for $80,00. This was probably only my fourth of fifth camera. I bought it primarily because it had a meter. In the ensuing years I rarely used it. I noted early on there seemed to be a "flare" problem, and each time I promised myself I would use the shade next time, which I consequently forgot ...until I received my next disappointing results. I often thought of this was a flare problem, and my Yashica D never seemed to suffer from this. Suffice to say, I rarely used it, and because I really.. really..should divest myself of photo apparatuses, I was/am convinced to sell this. Given the YashicaMat 124G (with G-old connectors) really brings a good price, I only had to convince the prospective buyer, that this is is the same model in its earliest (and best of course) form. So in light of this, I took it out to play "one more time" and realized the same old problem. Frankly, I should've stopped there. and sold it outright.. But nooooooo. !! I remembered a post from JohnS, a great contributor who has nicely presented a few TLRs, that there were internal reflections causing flare in one of his models. [A light went on in my head] I recalled he had added baffles to disrupt the flow of light to good success. Now inquiring some years later, he referred me to the article, which I re-read with more interest. Meanwhile I did a few Google searches and found this was quite a well documented problem with various old, and new Yashica TLRs. http://yashicatlr.com/BodiesTrim.html#baffles In my reading around, others talked about rear-element gassing out..so I decided to remove the real element first. To the naked eye there was no obvious problem. Upon closer inspection I came across some obvious crud. It was however on the edge and IMHO not likely to influence the result. So after some perfunctory cleaning I reassembled it shot another roll (2nd). Needless to say, this didn't improve matters at all. Having posted some of this already in the weekly post, I was given some good advice. One, that indeed the crud I had on the lens would or could be the problem. So put a little bit of elbow and Q-tips saturated with Windex to the lens. I got quite a bit off, but not all. I felt that the real problem were the internal reflections. Having re-read JohnS' post I noted a reference to "flocking" which I didn't understand. So I did some more reading and now know what it is. [Flocking is essentially very thin velvet.. people use it to line drawers or small boxes ..think jewelry ] I do feel his adding of balsa wood to disrupt the light flow was probably the right way to go. [Probably not relevant, but when designing concert halls the research determined that the ceilings with lots of stucco and protruding objects were a factor in breaking up the sound ] I considered cutting black matt construction paper might do the trick too. Now knowing what flocking was, I determined this was my best route. I found self-adhesive pack of 10 for ??12,00€.. 10x too much. So I used the construction paper idea waiting for delivery of the flocking and made templates for the four sides of the chamber. While the balsa wood was a good solution, I would make a mess of it. So flocking was the path of least resistance. Besides, it could easily be removed After cleaning, some crud is still there. (need to cut my nails!!) Note the mark at circa 3:00 o'clock... I now realize this is likely a result of being dropped. I was trying to see the effect this "chip" in the lens might have, I was photographing through the back of the camera. This really does show how much reflection there might be / is in the chamber. Unfortunately ( or is that fortunately) I don't have any pics showing the process of the flocking. I felt (pun?) it went well with my templates ..the scary part of removing the adhesive and placing it in the chamber was well ...scary but but I needed to be done with it [ like this post??] So here is the back with the flocking...visible here is the next problem. But let us not dwell on new problems ...let's celebrate the success. Very pleased with the contrast and the definition, which has greatly improved...Do you see what I see?? Interesting the top and bottom are good, but the sides... 😞 In conclusion; These models do have a serious baffling problem. JohnS probably gave the better solution with breaking up the light, and as "baffling" is how Yashica also managed the problem..well badly. My exemplar is in good condition, I bought a mint NeverReady case some years back for circa 30,00€ , add to this the four or five rolls of film circa 20,00€, if I'm lucky I can get 250,00 -300,00€ I hope this is informative and helps anybody going down this path, to get their exemplar "popping" as the fine Yashinon lens should. I need to stop obsessing and SELL the ?ucker!!

Well done TonyE. . Malignant Cosina?.. mmmh deserving of more respect...especially in your capable hands.

Nice acquisition ... especially considering the very desirable lens..

That'S great .. It will always be a sense of self-satisfaction now every time you use it. Most of my "§repair" stories end in disaster.. so bully for you!!

Please do post stuwilmur