christopher_ward2

Gently push button on rear right of finder in while lifting up. It should pop right open. Chris

You need a lens board solenoid to trip the shutter. The flash to solenoid wire can be a pain to find. Check out graflex.org. Flash units usually slide on the rangefinder.

I am getting dense somewhat uneven development across the sheet. I know with roll film to much agitation can lead to over development and shadows blocking up. I remember some developers made for machine processing in the past but do not know if they still exist. I have reduced the ISO film speed 1/3 f/stop to compensate for over agitation. I have been thinking about trying the two part developers to get more consistent results.

OK , manual agitation should help for streaks and more dilute developer for contrast build up. Dose anyone know if the unicolor or cibachrome roller bases can be used with a dimmer switch?

Looking for a better developer for the constant agitation of a print drum/tube for my 8x10 sheet film. Usually use HC-110, T-Max or Rodinol with time reduction compensation to keep over development in check. Any thought about a better developer for this style of processing? 8x10 Cibachrome drum, standard single speed motor base with 6 oz. developer as single shot.

The Nikon film SLR finder is +1 as is. My readers are +2.5 so I add a +1 diopter for shooting without glasses. For me a +2 will not work yet. The F/F2/Nikkormat are the same size (FM/FE too I think) and the FE2/FM2/FA/FG take a smaller size. The N90s, 8008s and F3HP take the same size. Hard to find even from KEH but so much better than squinting with glasses. My only camera with built in diopter is the F4. Do not mess with digital SLR cameras. Chris

unless you have access to an 8x10 enlarger, 4x5 is a better option. Cost and availability of film can be another issue with 8x10.

I have a 4x5 RB Series B. I'm 6'5" so the camera is not that big. Big reflex mirror with clear view. Hand held can be a problem with shake.The film backs are a challenge due to age, I like the "Bag Magazine" back for 12 sheets and the leather bag can be brittle or have holes from age/use. In the field the double Graflex holder is a pain. Some cameras had the ground glass replaced with brighter plastic screen by a repair shop, these are much brighter. Many had flash added by a repair shop but for flash bulbs. Repair is a real problem. Last Graflex SLR's produced c.1950. The roller blind shutter is something most repair people have never seen. I have a Series B 2 1/4 x 3 1/4 with shutter curtain torn loose from spool and no idea where to send it for repair. Check out Graflex.org, lots of articles and user info. Chris

On my QL17 the rewind button drops back out after the shutter is cocked. Have you tried firing the shutter and re-cocking it? It might just be gummed up from not being used. Good luck. Chris

The toner should be OK if it does not have sludge or particles in bottom of bottle. When the chemicals break down the toner is unstable and iffy to use. You could mix it and try with scrap prints. Blotchy toning is a sign of chemical break down. Be sure to vent your work space, selenium can be nasty. Chris

The filters for the 80mm F/2.8 are Bay50 size and a Bay50-55mm adapter works. A fine camera and lens. Chris

classic dirty rollers. Remove film pack and clean rollers then roload film pack. chris

The subject matter is totally what interests you. If you love it use chrome to capture it. The hard part is getting people to sit thru a slide show. You have 12 maybe 15 minuets tops till they get bored. Be brutal in your editing and hear the oohs and aahs of your viewers. Slides simply must be projected for their impact to be truly appreciated. When I did road trips, one body Kodak Plus-X and one body Kodachrome generally seven rolls B&W plus three chrome. People have a sixth sense about slide shows ... free food? free beer? where is he hiding the projector! Love what you shoot and love sharing your work too. Film is ethereal and only meanigfull once exposed and shared. Chris

<p>if your film is clear and without edge markings it has NOT been developed. Dead developer or fixed film before developer. If your film has edge markings after processing and nothing else could be under exposed or under developed or camera failure.<br> Chris</p>

<p>Should be a Tessar clone. From 1931 catalog coverage 5x8 inches, studio use for portrait and group. $28.80 in shutter $18 in barrel. I use a Gundlach 12" f/6.3 on 8x10. Even illumination with good coverage, fine images for an uncoated lens. Gundlach made the Turner-Reich convertible lenses and the Korona view cameras.<br> Chris</p>