chrisnielsen

<p>I violently disagree with the idea the continuous AF is bad.... Set up correctly it's at least as good as my old D90 was. I shot 5000 frames at an airshow last month. About 150 were out of focus and you could tell that it had not locked correctly at the time. I have more trouble keeping aircraft in the frame with the 75-300, I have never shot action with a 600mm equiv lens and it's like trying to track them with a damn telescope!</p>

<p>You sure it's something dried on the EVF? E-M1 have a common fault where bright sun shining into the EVF can (if your diopter is set to one of the extremes) get what looks like yellow blobs, it's caused by the diopter acting like a magnifying glass and burning into the EVF</p>

<p>That's an old machine. It's probably SATA-II I would guess, so you won't see nearly as much benefit from an SSD as if it was SATA-III. My 2011 Mac Mini which came with a spinning notebook drive was absolutely transformed by an SSD. Boot times went from 90 secs to 10 secs, Lightroom opened in a few seconds instead of a minute or so. But if you have SATA-II it won't be nearly as fast. You're in Wellington, right? PBTech has a store there, they do nice cheap SSDs, it's a cheap experiment really, you can pick up a 120 gig like I have for a little more than a hundred bucks.</p>

<p>Jos, lens distortion on micro 4/3 *has* to be automatically corrected by RAW processing software because that is how the lenses are designed, software correction is mandatory. I can't speak for Canon but I know 100% for sure m43 corrects automatically. You only have to read lens reviews to see just how appalling the lenses are when used with a 'non-conforming' RAW converter, but since the lenses were designed to be used with software correction it really does not matter.</p> <p>The user cannot see the corrections in Lightroom for m43, the user cannot turn them off, nor should you want to. That is how it is supposed to work.</p> <p>Here is an example review - if you look at it you can see corrected and uncorrected comparison, it's quite horrific in the uncorrected version: http://www.photozone.de/olympus--four-thirds-lens-tests/529-oly_m918_456?start=1</p>

My understanding is that the lens corrections are built in and not user controllable. From what I have seen the lenses are designed with uncorrected faults that are corrected in software so if you could switch it off you would be sorry you did. The profile correction option is unrelated to this I think.

<p>I was most amused by the letter from the chap who was quite beside himself that they had mentioned a Russian lens in the magazine - we can't have your magazine consorting with 'unfriendly nations'</p>

<blockquote> <p>You can do it if you want to spend too much money for a mostly mythological improvement. If any at all.</p> </blockquote> <p>I use Windows at work. You couldn't *pay me* to use it at home</p>

<p>Excellent. Thanks for letting us know.</p>

<p>Hi</p> <p>I have the E-M1 and was having trouble with it locking up for extended periods after shooting continuous, so I checked out my SD card and found it was only rated at 10 mb/s. I bought the Sandisk 95 MB/s card you are talking about and ran some tests. I don't have the 45 mb/s card but you can draw your own conclusions.</p> <p>Apacer 10mb/s card: 35 RAW images captured in 5.5 seconds before it slowed down, then continued at 0.69 fps. Burst was approx 10 mb/s.<br> Sandisk 95 mb/s card: 53 RAW images captured in 7.8 seconds before it slowed down, then continued at 2.9 fps. Burst was approx 90 mb/s.</p> <p>From this, you can see that the camera is well able to make full use of the rated transfer speed, I would guess the 45 mb/s card would be somewhere inbetween the above two figures. I understand the camera can not support >90 mb/s so buying a fancy 280 mb/s card would be a waste of time. I also see even the 90 mb/s card can not sustain that speed for long - once it drops to 2.9 fps that is pushing through a constant 30 mb/s according to my calculations - does that mean the fast card just has a fast cache?</p> <p>Also I noted in the test that the time to clear a burst went from 48 seconds to 12 seconds, and of course the E-M1 prevents you from entering playback mode while it is clearing the buffer - good enough reason to get the fast one IMHO. Also, 2.9 fps is how fast my first airshow camera was, so in my situation it's fast enough even after burst mode has been expended, to continue shooting at 2.9 fps - it's quick enough for me that I have effectively an unlimited 3 fps RAW recording capability which makes me jump for joy compared to my old 30D in particular</p> <p>Hope this helps.</p> <p>Cheers,</p> <p>Chris</p>

Fire at the Icepak coolstore, Tamahere NZ in 2008. One firefighter killed, seven injured. Massive explosion caused by illegal propane based refrigeration system. Shot I think on my Canon Eos 500 with a Nikon 35- 70 lens. Superia 400.<div></div>

<p>I have the OM-D E-M1 which I got with the 12-40, and I came from an RB67 so it's definitely smaller! I absolutely love the 12-40, but compared to my other m4/3 lenses it's a little on the chubby side. Just picked up the 45 1.8 and that's tiny and weighs almost nothing. Both are excellent lenses.</p> <p>The 12-40 has a full time manual focus ring which is handy as well. </p>

<p>Looks fine on my screen considering a lot of dark sand, dark trees, deep blue sky. There are lighter objects if you look closely and they are white but not blown out. If the camera had increased exposure they might be blown out.</p>

<p>I would have though you'd want to have some guarantee your shots will be in focus, but I haven't really tested it either way, you could well be right.</p>

<p>Hi Gerry, the biggest issue I have with Olympus is the incomprehensible menu system. It doesn’t need to be anywhere near as complicated, I think, and I am not sure how ‘regular’ i.e. non-nerdy people get on with it. I haven’t had to refer to a camera manual as much as this one since I had my first DSLR back in the dark ages!<br /> Anyway, I should really give you the answers to your questions. When I originally replied I was answering from memory as I didn’t have my camera or user guide handy. Now I do, so what I think I will do is give you a list of settings that I believe help with continuous shooting plus how to set them. Here we go:</p> <ul> <li>Continuous AF set to C-AF. Press the AF button on top of the camera and scroll with the rear control wheel to C-AF (next to S-AF, NOT C-AF/TR)</li> <li>Drive set to Sequential L. Press the button with HDR on it and scroll with the rear control wheel to Sequential L.</li> <li>AF Point to either single near the centre or 9 point. Assuming your Fn1 is set to AF Area Select, press it and a grid comes up. press Info at that point and use the 4-way selector’s UP button to scroll between all squares lit up, group of 9 points, single point small and single point large. That point can be moved around with the arrow keys but I would avoid that. The group of 9 or single in the centre would be my suggestions.</li> <li>In the menu under the gear section, in A (AF) section set Face Priority to OFF, set C-AF Lock to High</li> <li>In the gears in menu C (Release) section set Rls Priority C to OFF, set L fps to 6.5, set [drive] + IS Off to Off, set Half Way Rls With IS to On</li> <li>In the gears menu in menu D (Disp) section set Frame Rate to High</li> <li>In the wrench menu, set Rec View to Off</li> </ul> <p>I suggest you put the camera in S mode for shutter priority and dial in a speed of no slower than 1/320 to avoid shutter shock as the fancy 0-sec anti-shock only works (at least on my camera) in single shot mode, i.e. the continuous settings are grayed out.<br /> Hope this helps!</p>

<p>I'm really pleased it worked for you. Pity it takes arcane knowledge to get it to work!</p>