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chris_waller

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  1. <p>I pre-soak for 2 minutes with an initial 6 inversions of the tank, plus rapping it on the heel of my hand to dislodge air bubbles before pouring in the developer. But after that the only rinse is between first and second fixers (I use two-bath fixing).</p>
  2. <p>I would assume two stops loss of speed due to age and thus increase development time by about 70%, e.g. if the dev time for new film were, say, 8 minutes, I'd give it 14 minutes.</p>
  3. <p>I found that the purple stain was much reduced after I moved to two-bath fixing. In any event, it fades in time.</p>
  4. <p>I get this as well. I filter the fixer through a coffee filter every so often. I think it might also be due to the stop bath losing its acidity.</p>
  5. <p>Maybe there was some contamination of the tank with wetting-agent? After washing the film, using the Ilford Method, I take the reels out of the tank and dunk them in a separate container of water containing wetting-agent. Also, after an initial 6 inversions of the tank I give one inversion every 30 seconds to avoid excessive churning of the developer.</p>
  6. <p>It is due primarily to the fixer becoming saturated with silver. From my own experience I suspect it may also be due in part to the progressive exhaustion of the stop and its loss of acidity. I filter my fixer at intervals through a coffee filter.</p>
  7. <p>When downrating, as a rule of thumb I reduce dev time by 1/3 per stop. So if your dev time at rated speed was 12 minutes then I'd cut it to 5.5 minutes. Your negs will be very flat but you can recover the contrast in printing.</p>
  8. <p>I use Ilford FP4 for the vast majority of my work and dev it in Rodinal/Adonal. I've tried some of the Adox films and they are fine but I haven't the time at the moment to go through the learning process to fully appreciate them.</p>
  9. <p>Anne,</p> <p>I suggest you try downrating the film by as much as 2 stops and reduce development time accordingly. This will achieve the low contrast you are looking for. I would also suggest you look at the work of Josef Sudek. </p>
  10. <p>As above, it sounds like your fixer is exhausted.</p>
  11. <p>All b+w films can be developed in ay b+w developer. I've used pyrocat with several films. It's a good developer.</p>
  12. <p>No, don't worry. The chemicals are no more toxic than many other domestic chemicals. I've used them for years. Just rinse any splashes off your hands and you'll be OK. I don't bother wearing gloves for cyanotyping.</p>
  13. <p>No, that is quite normal for many cameras. Mine does the same.</p>
  14. <p>First one is dust and the second one is air-bubbles. When you fill the tank with developer, give it half a dozen inversions then slap it sharply on the heel of you hand to dislodge the air-bubbles. Otherwise, try pre-soaking. To avoid getting dust on he film ensure you dry it in a cabinet or under some other type of cover.</p>
  15. <p>First make sure that you are coating the paper very consistently. Secondly, I recommend you wash the prints thoroughly before you put them into the hydrogen peroxide bath. Perhaps you peroxide bath is becoming exhausted as you process more prints.</p>
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