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chris_burgess3

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  1. Yes, he did install light seals, and I was wondering about the light seals being involved. I'll contact Mr. Oikawa and find out what he'd like to do. Thanks for all the advice.
  2. Hi to all, I had a strange happening today. I use an early Canon F1 without the film tab holder on the back, and I use an Optech strap with it. I strap it across my self, and then swing it forward to take a shot, then put it back on my side. I ride a bicycle to and from the subjects that I find to shoot. On the way back from my photography, I heard a noise. I thought I'd dropped something, so I stopped immediately, and found my camera back had popped open. I had carefully loaded the film, and about 2 months ago, I put thru a roll of film thru with no issues. I've just put 2 rolls thru it since it's come back from Ken Oikawa. Has anyone had this happen? Thanks
  3. <p>Yes, you have to enter the lenses in a database, and give the focal length and maximum aperture. I use some AI'd lenses from the early 60's and it works fine. </p>
  4. <p>Oh, was I dumb! Thanks, nothing wrong then, good news. I guess I was used to using my D7000, you do get them with that. Thanks for the responses.</p>
  5. <p>I have a Nikon N90s, and I've taken it out to use it, it's been stored for a couple of years in climate controlled conditions, and I've noticed that the meter seems to work fine, but I'm not getting any aperture readout on the top display or in the viewfinder, only lines. I've tried several different lenses, no change. I use older manual lenses, I've never used af lenses on it. I just put in new, topped up eneloop batteries in it. I've tried with and without the MB-10, no change. I do have an MF-25 data back on it, which seems to work fine. I think I could use the camera as is fine, I'm used to checking my aperture setting on my lenses visually anyway. Anyone have any tricks to 'wake up' the aperture readout?</p>
  6. <p>Steve P, quite an impressive change in the photo that you worked on. Would you say that I could do something similar in Gimp? Steve C, I just send my film to North Coast Photo, and have them develop the film, do a hi rez scan, and have them send me back the negatives and a DVD. Yes, I'm sure the way the photos look reflects how North Coast thinks they should look. </p>
  7. Make: NORITSU KOKI; Model: QSS-32_33; Software: QSS-32_33 10.00.020 2009.12.21; ExifGpsLatitude: 48 49 48 48; ExifGpsLatitudeRef: R98;
  8. <p>Thanks to everyone who has helped out; I have one other photo; I'm guessing it's grossly underexposed - would I be right?</p><div></div>
  9. chris_burgess3

    15540026.JPG

    Make: NORITSU KOKI; Model: QSS-32_33; Software: QSS-32_33 10.00.020 2009.12.21; ExifGpsLatitude: 48 49 48 48; ExifGpsLatitudeRef: R98;
  10. <p>Hello,<br /> Yes, I use a Sekonic L-358 external meter. I probably misadjusted the exposure for the polarizer after getting the reading.</p>
  11. <p>Hello Les,<br /> Thanks a lot, I underexposed then. Being Ektar, if I had used more exposure, would the clouds have had as much definition without the polarizer? </p>
  12. <p>Greetings,<br> I shot a few rolls of Kodak Ektar last summer with my Canon FX and FL 50mm 1.8, using a polarizer. Much of my subjects turned out dark, almost black. Any ideas on how I screwed up? I sent the film to North Coast photo for scanning and development. </p><div></div>
  13. <p>Looks like it only covers AF lenses; I use only older AI's and AI'd lenses. Guess I won't need it.</p>
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