charles_tuthill

I've never used an SL2 but I bought an SL a few years ago for the same reason, and found it to be very satisfying. I would look for one with a metal lens release tab, and a clear viewfinder. Supposedly, with the SL at least, the newer style metering cell with the panels (as opposed to an X) is more desirable but I don't know why exactly (its visible with the back open and the mirror in the up position). I would also get a CLA asap - when mine locked up during routine shooting three years after I purchased it I quickly discovered that even in major cities no one will touch one with a ten foot pole. Those few who work on them are very expensive - which of course led me to kick myself for buying such a complex and potentially expensive camera. And then there is the headache of expensive lenses, though I really love the way they render images. Its still my favorite camera but the expense of lenses and repairs means its not my most used one.

<p>Great choices!</p>

<p>Sounds like you've identified two focal lengths that fit your needs. I currently own a 50mm 1.4 and I used to own the 1.8 (the old one with the metal mount). I mistakenly thought that I would see a huge jump in quality with the 50mm 1.4; don't get me wrong, I really like the 1.4 but I didn't really see any noticeable difference in image quality. If I had to do it all over again, I would get the 1.8 and save the money.<br> As for a wide angle, the 10-22mm is probably my favorite lens because I use it for landscapes so often.Stopped down it is extremely sharp.<br> My most used focal lengths are 14mm and 22mm (roughly 35mm and 24mm on film). The 10-18mm appears to have image quality that is similar of better than the 10-22mm; I doubt you would notice a difference between the two. If it were me I would get the 10-22 because it offers 22mm while my next focal length is 35mm. Since you have an 18-135mm, you may not need the the 10-22mm, and a 10-18mm would probably be fine, unless you need wide apertures. If so, then a tokina 11-16mm might be what you are looking for, though it is more expensive.</p>

<p>I think this guy had the same issue. Here is the url of the video of the fix, it looks fairly simple.<br> Hope this helps</p>

Thanks for the response, I appreciate it. It matches what I have been able to find out about the lense as well. And thanks for the info about the vivitar, sounds like it might be worth checking out.

<p>I recently came across an ebay sale for a Rokkor 28mm 2.5 SI, that claimed that it was the second version, which did not use any rare earth elements, and therefore is not susceptible to yellowing. I was under the impression that all of the rokkor 28mm 2.5 versions used some sort of radioactive components, so I was a little confused. Since it is a lens I am contemplating buying, I was wondering if anyone could set the record straight. <br> So, is there really a Rokkor 28mm 2.5 that does not use rare earth elements?<br> Thanks for your help. </p>